Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld ayaa ku dhex booday duubka kamarada ee iPhone 6 wuxuuna iftiimiyay sawir dhawaan la soo saaray: Nashqadeeyaha Jarmalka ah isagoo wiil ku labisan lederhosen. "Caruur ahaan wax kale ma xidhin," ayuu ku ruxay.Maqaarka maqaarku waxa uu dhiirigeliyay shandad gacmeed cusub oo dhaban leh, Duqsi hore oo dhicis ahi waxa uu isu beddelay kiishad sibidhka leh oo ka kalluumaysiga lipstick ka dhigi karta waxqabad dhiillo leh.
"Waa inaad qirataa inay aad u qosol badan tahay, oo ku taal xuduudka wasakhda ah. Laakiin waa arrin macquul ah, ”Lagerfeld ayaa si farxad leh u sheegay mar uu horudhac u ahaa ururintiisii ugu dambeysay ee Métiers d'arts, ee loo yaqaan Paris-Salzburg.
Isagoo siinaya nolol cusub qaab Alpine ah, Lagerfeld wuxuu horey u sii wadaa dhaxalka magaca guriga Gabrielle Chanel, kaasoo ka helay dhiirigelinta mid ka mid ah naqshadeeda ugu quruxda badan uguna waaraya ee jaakad ka soo horjeeda, jaakad afar-jeeb ah oo uu xidho hawlwadeenka wiishka ee Salzburg's gaar ah hotel Mittersall. Milkiileheeda, Baron Hubert von Pantz, wuxuu ahaa Chanel jacaylkii Soddonkii, ku soo laabashadeeda aasaaska labaatan sano ka dib waxay ahayd mid nasiib badan.
"Kontantii, waxay ku soo noqotay halkan, taasi waa sida ay u aragtay jaakadan, taasina waa xaqiiqda sida jaakada Chanel u dhalatay," Lagerfeld ayaa sharxay Isniintii markii uu dhammeeyey taabashadii ururinta. "Waxaad eegtaa Chanel labaatankii iyo soddonaadkii mana jirin wax sidan oo kale ah."
Lagerfeld waxa uu soo qaatay noocyo cusub oo jaakada Chanel ah - iyo baraf baraf ah oo funaanado iyo blouses - intii lagu jiray saddex bandhig oo dhabbaha dayuuradaha ah oo ka dhacayay qasriga Rococo ee Schloss Leopoldskron. Daawashada ayaa soo jiidatay walxaha Tyrolean ee caadiga ah, oo loo riyaaqay da'da casriga ah, una soo gudubtay marxaladda moodada caalamiga ah.
"Si aad u wanaagsan ayaa loo sameeyay, sida ay isugu daraan dhaqanka meel gaar ah iyo ruuxa Chanel," ayay tiri Astrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Waxaa jira raadin nooc kasta oo dumar ah."
Bandhiga ka hor, VIP-da iyo tifaftirayaasha ayaa sawiro sawiro ka qaaday goobta weyn ee dabka lagu shido ee marmar ah, balakoonno bir ka samaysan iyo barxad dusha ka eegaysa haro cawlan oo weli ah. Qoryaha qiiqa ka baxa ee beerta ayaa soo daatay qolka, isagoo ku daray qurxinta miisyada buskudka ku raran yihiin, liinta caleenta leh iyo diyaarinta khudrado xusuusinaysa sawir-gacmeedyadii qarnigii 17-aad.
"Waa wax qurux badan, oo aad u faahfaahsan," waxaa la yaabay Bergès-Frisbey, oo isu diyaarinaysa doorkeeda soo socota, sida Guinevere in Guy Ritchie laqabsiga "Knights of the Round Table."
"Waxaan bilaabeynaa duubista filimka Febraayo, inta badan England," ayay tiri. "Waa mid aad u daran. waan diyaarinayaa.”
Jilaa Jarmal ah Mavie Hörbiger, oo ku nool Austria, ayaa sheegtay in duulaanka Chanel uu ahaa dhacdo dhacdo: "Inaad mooddo Salzburg, caadi maaha dadka Australiya."
Bandhiga Lagerfeld wuxuu ka caawiyay in uu shido xilliga dayrta ka hor iyada oo si heer sare ah loo qurxiyey qaadashada xikmadda muxaafidka ah: Xiddigaha Crystal oo ku lulaya kaarka maroodiga ah ee dhogorta la kariyey; edelweiss oo lagu dhejiyay lugaha suede; iyo ribbooyinku waxay isu beddeleen gacmo weyn oo ruffled oo ku yaal jaakad cajiib ah oo baalal ka samaysan, madax-ku-jiid ah oo ay ku dhaqmi jireen aristocrat Austrian hore.
" Way ku qurux badan tahay iyada, maya? Taasi waa meesha kuugu dhow ee aad tagi karto dirndl, "Lagerfeld ayaa yiri iyadoo Lara Stone ay soo gashay dhar ku habboon oo ku labisan dharka taffeta madow ee dhalaalaya oo leh faan u eg oo ku sifoobay ruffles. "Ma doonayo in uu u ekaado 'Guri yar oo ku yaal Prairie." (In kasta oo hadhow laga yaabo in qaabka lagu basaasay beerta dhexdeeda lulid alwaax ah oo ka laalaaday laanta geed, wiilkeeda yar ayaa ku qaylinaya iyada oo ku faraxsan dhabteeda. )
Lagerfeld waxa uu xusay in boqortooyadii Austro-Hungary ay indhaha ku dhufatay, marka la gooyo xargaha, ruffles, iyo ribbons-ka ay ahaayeen a la mode.
"Waan jeclahay ruuxa," naqshadeeyaha ayaa yiri. "Ma doonayo inaan sameeyo wax sheeko-yaqaan ah. Tani waa khiyaali badan. Waa inay noqotaa mid casri ah, waa inay maanta ku saxan tahay, saamiga, wax walba.”
Si aad u ogaato: Tidcan Heidi ayaa lagu dhaawacay dhego-xirmo qallafsan, halka breejyadaas inta badan loo fasiray surwaal gaagaaban oo denim ah, oo lagu tolay dhejisyo curli ah.
Bandhiga waxa uu ku furmay jaakado koofiyad u eg oo taxane ah oo tidcan tidcan ama jaranjaro jilicsan. Lagerfeld wuxuu ku dabaqay saamaynta koofiyadda la midka ah funaanadaha turtleneck, lebbiska xafladaha, oo ay weheliso koofiyadaha cajiibka ah ee buuxa oo lagu dhejiyay baalal qalaad.
Lagerfeld's ode to Mitteleuropa ayaa isku dhex wareegaya homespun - ubaxa cirbadda isla markiiba ka soo baxay hoobka daabacan ee jeebka Chanel ee tidcan badanaa waxay fadhiistaan - si ay u seexdaan, sida surwaal qurxoon oo qurux badan oo leh xariijimo tidcan iyo xiirado duuban oo lagu sawiray dahab ama lacag.
Xirashada fiidkii waxay ahayd mid aan caadi ahayn, oo leh balanbaalis iyo baalal ku dul shidnaa chiffon buluug ah oo cirro leh, iyo gacmo-gacmeedka hoggaamiyaha kiniisaddu waxay ku daraysaa taabasho jacayl si ay u labbisto satin madow oo qallafsan oo leh mugga dirndl.
Inta uu qaanso ku jiro, Lagerfeld waxa uu ka soo rujiyay miis ka mid ah oo uu u dhiibay Cara Delevingne, oo qaniinyada qaadatay ka dibna kor u qaaday sida kubbadda cagta ka dib markii uu taabtay.
Qiyaastii 220 ka mid ah macaamiisha ugu wanaagsan ee Chanel, oo ay ku jiraan koox aad u badan oo Jarmal ah oo Yurub ku hadasha, ayaa ku soo degay magaaladan quruxda badan, oo lagu qiimeeyay xarunteeda taariikhiga ah, muuqaal-sheeko-sheeko, opera iyo daaraha waaweyn sida Leopoldskron.
“Aad bay u qurux badan tahay. Waa mid ka mid ah meelaha aan ugu jecelahay Yurub. Waxaan jeclahay beerta. Haddii aysan jirin ceeryaamo waxaad arki kartaa buuraha, "ayuu yiri Lagerfeld. Waxa uu xusay in 26 sano ka hor uu ku toogtay olole Chanel ah oo uu la socday model Inès de la Fressange ee qasriga, mid ka mid ah kii ugu horreeyay ee guriga Faransiiska.
"Wax badan ayaan halkan imaan jiray," naqshadeeyuhu wuxuu la xiriiray. “Xitaa aaggan waxaan ka kiraystay guryo. Waan jeclahay Salzburg, waan jeclahay aaggan. "
Habeenimadii isniinta, martidu waxay ka soo qayb galeen casho sharafeed ka dhacday St. Peter Stiftskaller, oo lagu soo dalacsiiyay makhaayadda ugu da'da weyn Yurub oo la geliyay guri keniisad ah. Ka hor inta uusan qof walba degin cunto todobo-koorso ah oo lagu furay tartare of fawn, baradho rösti iyo plum chutney, naqshadeeyuhu wuxuu ka dooday fiidiyoow todobo daqiiqo ah oo uu ku jiro fannaanka "Farxad leh" ee Pharrell Williams oo ah wiilkaas ultra-chic wiish iyo Delevingne sida a reincarnation of Empress Elizabeth ee Awstaria, oo caan ku ah Sissi.
"Miyay noqon kartaa inanta iga caawisa inaan arko, arko (CC) aduunka," Williams croons ee heesta asalka ah ee uu qalinka ugu duugay moodelka, kaas oo isku dayaya jilida iyo muusiga.
Soojiidashada dhinaca ikhtiyaariga ah inta lagu jiro dalxiiskan Alpine waxaa ka mid ah suuqyada caanka ah ee Salzburg ee Christmas-ka iyo riwaayadaha muusiga ee wiilka ugu caansan magaalada, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Martidii ka soo qaybgashay bandhigga moodada waxay la tageen bac ay ku jirto dib u daabacaadda "Der Rosenkavalier," opera majaajillo ah oo uu sameeyay Richard Strauss oo ku salaysan libretto asalka ah ee Jarmalka ee Hugo von Hofmannsthal, oo ay weheliso tarjumaaddeeda Ingiriisiga iyo faylalka sawir-gacmeedka ee Alfred Roller ee dharka iyo sets for a 1910 wax soo saarka.
Waligaa safiirkii dhaqanka, Lagerfeld xitaa wuxuu ku booriyay martida si ay u muunadeeyaan saxaarada macaan ee maxalliga ah, oo ay ku jiraan Kaiserschmarren, canjeelo la jarjaray oo loogu magac daray boqorkii Australiya Franz Joseph I, kaasoo Williams uu dib ugu soo celiyay filimka la socda ee bandhigga.
"Waa inaad dhadhamisaa: waa waxa ugu fiican aduunka," naqshadeeyaha ayaa codsaday.
Ururinta farshaxanka ee Métiers d's, xirmaysa faa'iidooyinka laba-god, waxay ka dhigan tahay qaybta ugu kobaca badan ee ganacsiga Chanel maanta, sida uu qabo Bruno Pavlovsky, madaxweynaha moodada Chanel.
"Waxaa jira waxyaabo badan oo ka kooban, macaamiisheenana waxay jecel yihiin dhammaan male-awaalkan agagaarka astaanta," ayuu yidhi. "Waxay dhawaan ahaan doontaa wax ka badan ama ka yar isla muhiimada ururinta Oktoobar ama March."
Waxaa la soo bandhigay 2002 si loo sarraysiiyo atelier-ka gaarka ah ee Chanel, oo ay ku jiraan khabiirka cashmere ee Scotland Barrie iyo shirkadda tweed ee Faransiiska A.C.T. 3, kaas oo iibsigiisa la shaaciyay Isniintii, ururinta farshaxanimada ee sanadlaha ah ee Métiers d's arts hadda waxaa taageeray olole xayaysiis oo go'an - midda Salzburg waa in lagu soo bandhigaa Delevingne iyo Williams - waxaana lagu qaadaa dhammaan 189 boutique ee shirkadda Faransiiska, iyo sidoo kale in ilaa 100 dukaanno gaar ah doorta.
Iibinta barafaysan, Pavlovsky waxa uu tixgaliyay keenista hore - badhtamihii May ilaa Ameerika marka hore, oo ay ku xigto Yurub iyo ka dibna Aasiya badhtamihii Juun - iyo sheekada xoogga leh ee ka dambeysa ururinta, mid kastaa wuxuu keenayaa nolosha cutub cusub oo xirfadeed midab leh magaca guriga. Chanel waxay u safartay Dallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh iyo Tokyo si ay ugu soo bandhigto khadka cusub.
"Macaamiisheenna, waxay u baran jireen inay ku arkaan silhouettes cusub iyo waxyaabo cusub oo ku yaal boutique labadii biloodba mar," ayuu yiri Pavlovsky. "Mar kasta, waxaa jira wax badan oo laga sheego nolosheeda - run iyo mala-awaal. Nuxurkani waa in la dhiso Chanel ee berri. "
Waxaa lagu wareystay qol alwaax ka sameysan oo eegaya haro mar ahaan jirtay xafiiska Max Reinhardt, agaasimaha masraxa ee caanka ah iyo aasaasihii xafladda Salzburg, Pavlovsky wuxuu xusay in diyaar u ah xirashada waa qaybta badeecada ugu dhaqsaha badan u koraysa ee Chanel, taas oo dib loo cusboonaysiiyay. iyo dukaamada waaweyn, oo dhamaantood uu leeyahay naqshadeeyaha Peter Marino, waa in ay dejiyaan xulashooyin badan oo moodooyinka ah.
Chanel waxay dhawaan rartay bakhaarkeeda Vienna, oo ah boosteejada kaliya ee Australiyaanka ah, sababtan awgeed, dhawaanna waxay ku samaysay isla Hamburg iyo Frankfurt. Dusseldorf ayaa soo socda.
Iyadoo kala duwanaanshaha Métiers d'art uu qiimaha ku riixay aagag cusub - jaakaduhu waxay si fudud u socon karaan ilaa $25,000 - Pavlovsky wuxuu xusay inay jiraan waxyaabo la awoodi karo, sidoo kale. "Ma ahan su'aal ku saabsan qiimaha, waa wax badan oo ku saabsan qiimaha alaabtan," ayuu yidhi.
Mar la weydiiyay haddii Métiers d' art art - oo sida caadiga ah dhiirigeliyay degaan sida Ruushka, Hindiya, ama Turkiga - ay ka soo baxaan suuqyadaas gaarka ah, Pavlovsky wuxuu ku jawaabay: "Daacadii, xitaa ma hubinno. Sheekada Dallas waxay ahayd mid awood badan Shiinaha iyo Japan sidii ay ahayd Maraykanka."
Hase yeeshee joogitaanka Lagerfeld ee Austria, wararka bogga hore ee waraaqo ay ku jiraan Salzburger Nachtrichten iyo Kronen Zeitung, iyo ururintiisa Chanel ayaa hubaal ah inay caan ku yihiin moodada iyo dhaqanka gobolka.
Lagerfeld, oo gashaday baabuurka loden intii uu joogay, waxa uu u yeedhay oraah waagii hore: "Jiilku way yimaadaan oo tagaan, laakiin lederhosen had iyo jeer wuu sii jirayaa."
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