MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
waxaa qoray Luke LeITCH
Massimiliano Giornetti macno ahaan wuxuu ku salaysan yahay muuqaal kasta oo ururintan ah kabo uu naqshadeeyay aasaasihii loo shaqeeyaha oo uu mar lahaan jiray Andy Warhol. Farshaxanku waxa uu soo iibsaday labo ka mid ah Ferragamo oxfords-sida muuqata qaabka kabaha ragga ee kaliya ee kabaha Bonito ku dhashay ee maestro waligiis naqshadeeyay—oo xirtay si uu u rinjiyeeyo -midab midab leh.
Soo saarista kuwan laba-laab-taabtay ee oxfords-ka-gacan-ka-sare ah ayaa sidaas ku saleeyay muuqaal kasta halkan maanta. Kabo waaweyn oo lagu tallaabsado. Giornetti ayaa kubad si cadaalad ah u sameeyay. Waxa uu sheegay in uu sahaminayay lahjad sartorial classicism iyo farshaxanka moodada. Middaani waxay isu rogtay suul ka mid ah dharka sare ee raaxada oo aan la dabooli karin iyo kuwa ku habboon oo muujinaya silhouette-ka dhow ee Giornetti ee uu ugu jecel yahay, lagana tuuray toliyadaha iyo funaanadaha ka careysnaa hindisaha farsamada.
Muuqaalkii ugu horreeyay ee Mac cad ayaa ka dhigan shiraac bannaan oo dhammaan ka dib lagu rinjiyeeyay. Funaanad isku daray lakab madow oo mink ah oo ka dulsaaran gole cad oo xiirid ah oo ku dhex jira gole ku yaal funaanad toddeedka la qurxiyey oo gacmaha maqaar lagu sito waxay ahayd been abuur wanaagsan. Sawirrada monochrome-ka buuxa ee Mario Giacomelli ee beeraha la xaaqay ayaa qeexay qurxinta bam-gacmeed cajiib ah oo jahawareer leh, iyo midabada iyo qaska ee Egon Schiele ee faahfaahinaya qaabka burburka salka ku haya ee tolida iyo shaadhka.
Laakiin iska ilow dhammaan tan "schmartery arty": sababtoo ah, jaakadaha. Bambooyin naylon saytuun ah oo xiiran iyo jardiinooyin ay ku dahaaran yihiin xiirid; Naylon Japan ah iyo bam-gacmeed; suudh saddex qaybood ka kooban oo duffel ah iyo dahaar-dhoobo-dhoobo-dhammaantood waxay ahaayeen kuwo cajiib ah. Silhouette ku habboon ee Giornetti ayaa garaacaya albaabka laba sano ka hor anachronism, iyo dhaqankiisa farshaxan-culus ayaa ka maqan dareenka degdegga ah ee dhiigga-iyo-onkodka. Waxa uu haysto, si kastaba ha ahaatee, waa xaqiiqo sax ah. Iyo kabo rinji-tufaax ah.