Imaatinka xiga ee Loewe Menswear Guga/Xagaaga 2021 Paris Show-in-a-Box, agaasimaha hal-abuurka Jonathan Anderson ayaa nagu hagi doona waxyaabaha ugu muhiimsan ee ururinta xagaaga xagaaga 2021.
Jonathan Anderson's show interactive ee sanduuqa loogu talagalay Loewe waxay qaadataa keega, oo ay ku dhammaystiran yihiin maro dhar ah, jaantus midab leh, dhejis pop-up ah, iyo dhawaaqa codka ee vinyl 45, si loogu ciyaaro ciyaaryahan kartoon oo rickety ah oo aad fartaada hore ku miiqdo. Dhammaantood waxa ay ku jiraan sanduuq xerayn dacwad adag ah, oo si fiican u muujinaya hab-dhaqanka maskaxeed ee Anderson, iyo rabitaankiisa ku aaddan laftaada iyo farsamada gacanta.
Iyada oo la dhex marinayo faylalka faylalka cawl, “Inspirations” tab waxay haysaa xaashi huruud ah oo sharraxaysa lixda sawir, saddex rinjiyeyaal iyo sawir-gacmeed “iftiin jilicsan” oo uu sameeyay Claes Oldenburg taasoo dhiirigelisay Loewe guga 2021 labiska ragga iyo ururinta haweenka ka hor. (Ma jiraan wax sawiro ah oo farshaxanimada ah, waa inaad Google-ka gelisaa.) Waxay soo jireen sannadihii 1600-meeyadii ilaa sagaashamaadkii waxaana ku jira laba sawir oo Diego Velázquez ah oo nin weyn oo dhar jeexjeexan xidhan, iyo sawir 1902-kii qoob-ka-cayaaraha Faransiiska Loie Fuller, oo ahaa Waxa kale oo loo taxay sida dhiirigelinta Valentino couture dayrta. Dharka ayaa u muuqda inuu ku jiro niyadda loogu talagalay wareegyada fanka ee dharka.
Buug rogaal celis ah oo uruurintu wuxuu muujinayaa jaakad ragga ah oo leh swags weyn oo gabardine ah oo loogu talagalay gacmo-gashi kuwaas oo ku dhammaaya donut weyn oo dhar ah oo dhabarka ah, sida go' go'an oo garbaha laga soo dejiyey. Waxaa jira maraqa Pierre Cardin ee koofiyadaha wareegta ah ee kubbadda caqiidada, jaakadaha godadleyda leh, iyo funaanado leh gacmo-gashiyo. Qaababka intooda badani waa kuwo la dheereeyey oo xajmigoodu yahay, oo leh hawo Renaissance oo aan caddayn. Midabka-xidheenku wuxuu u eg yahay, oo lagu garwaaqsaday farsamada Shibori ee Japan, waxay xajistaan laalaabkooda iyo dimples.
Wicitaan Soo Dhawayn ah, Anderson waxa uu sheegay in uu doortay wax badan oo ah soo jeedin ku salaysan shay kor loogu qaadayo farsamooyin farshaxan oo kala duwan oo lagu soo bandhigay fiidiyowyada khadka tooska ah. "Fashionku wuxuu u baahan yahay inuu daacad noqdo marka soo socda," ayuu ku gaabsaday, isagoo sidoo kale ku tilmaamay bacaha kuwa "toosan oo toos ah."
Mar wax laga weydiiyay ganacsiga ragga, waxa uu ku jawaabay: "Aad ayaan u firfircoonayn xilligan."
Uruurinta hore ee haweenka, oo laga jaray dhididka da'da Space Age ee kooky leh oo leh goonooyinkooda koofiyada iyo gacma-gashiga, ayaa si fudud u soo jiidanaya. Dharka dheer, qaabka duuban, si khafiif ah u soo booda hal sinta, ayaa si xoog leh u qurux badan. U fiirso lebbiska cad-cad ee sigaarka leh ee sigaar jilicsan ama tafaasiisha maro-maro, iyo jaakadaha dhogorta leh ee leh qoob-ka-cayaar waaweyn.
Anderson pings inta u dhaxaysa soigné chic oo leh tafaasiil qaawan - halkan surwaal madow oo leh biyo-dhac ah raffia midab leh oo ka yimid hal sinta - iyo kharash tijaabo ah oo dheeri ah, oo ay ku jiraan surwaal aad u weyn oo qulqulaya oo keliya suunka maqaarka ayaa kor u qaadi kara. Taasi waa waxa isaga ka dhigaya naqshadeeye soo jiidasho leh.
Iyo mashruucan, oo lagu xoojiyay fiidiyowyada saacadlaha ah Axadda si waqti kasta oo aag ahi uga qayb qaadan karo, Loewe wuxuu noqonayaa hal-abuuraha ugu sarreeya ee nuxurka, si deeqsinimo leh u furfuraya waxa ku jira madaxa hoggaamiyaha hal-abuurka leh oo u oggolaanaya dadka inay la qabsadaan hal-abuurnimadiisa. Hal tab oo ka mid ah sanduuqa ayaa hoy u ah qaabka warqadda ee muuqaalka No. 23, oo haddii ay taasi kugu dheer tahay shaqada, waxaad had iyo jeer dhisi kartaa kartoonnada kartoonada ah ee lagu shaabadeeyey dharka foomamka bust, ama muraayadaha qorraxda ee la daabacay oo lagu shaabadeeyey kartoonada. . Malaha fiiq-fiiqan kuma xidhi doonaan kubbadaha indhahaaga, laakiin taasi waxay u muuqataa inay tahay barta Anderson: Wuxuu rabaa inaan wax u aragno si ka duwan.
"Waa in aad wada hadal la samaysaa dhagaystayaasha si is-hoosaysiin badan," ayuu yidhi, isaga oo xusay in muddada xannibaadda ay dadka intiisa badan wax badan ku qabanayeen gacmahooda, hadday tahay cunto karinta ama tolitaanka.
"Waxay ila tahay in dadku ay rabaan wadaaga shucuureed xilligan," ayuu ku qoslay. "Dadku ma rabaan veneer."