PARIS, JANUARY 21, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Xilli kasta, sida muuqata waxaa jira daraasiin ama wax la mid ah Issey Miyake ururinta oo anaga, saxafada, aynaan arkin. Waxay u beddelaan saamaynta inta badan qarsoon ee khadka weyn ee tafatirka la taaban karo. Waxay sameeyaan waxyaabo badan oo la isku qurxiyo, kuwaas oo inta badan si fiican loo yaqaan, oo inta badan buuxiya bakhaaradooda.
Waxay noqon kartaa sac lacag caddaan ah, laakiin dhibka leh shay la mid ah sida Miyake's raaxaysi-iyo, si daacad ah, wax si joogto ah oo si fudud u tixraacaya naqshadeeyayaasha kale - waa inaad caajiso. Naqshadeeye ahaan iyo goobjooge ahaan. Haddaba, sida loo tijaabiyo iyada oo aan la fogayn? Sidee loo bixiyaa wax cusub adoon lumin aqoonsigaaga? Taasi waa arrinta Issey Miyake naqshadeeye dharka ragga ee Yusuke Takahashi ayaa wax ka qabta xilli kasta.
Guud ahaan, Takahashi wuu ka fogaadaa raali-gelinta -taasoo ah go'aan xikmad leh. Taa baddalkeeda, wuxuu helay ururinta dharka ragga ee guriga ee tignoolajiyada dharka iyo dareenka fudud - habdhaqanka jilicsanaanta, iyada oo aan laalaabin. Dayrta, waxa uu ugu yeedhay show-ga Neonomad, oo ah koox caws xoqan ah oo ku wareegsan dhabbaha ay diyaaraduhu ka ordaan oo bixinaya dareen shisheeyaha. Waxa la dareemay waxoogaa spaghetti Western ah, gaar ahaan ka soo horjeeda qaab dhismeedka la taaban karo ee Palais de Tokyo, oo ah xarun madani ah oo Faransiis ah oo leh magac Japanese-u waxyoonay. Sidee taasi u tahay safarka hore?
Dharka laftooda waxaa dhiirigeliyay dhaqamo kala duwan - in moodidii hore ee cliché ee roamin-ka baxay ay muujinayeen isku-dhafka dharka Mongoliyaanka, fardaha fuushanka, dhowr labbis iyo goonooyin ragga ah, iyo surwaal-duub-sarooel, muuqaal gaaban oo qalaad. Qaybta "neo" waxay ka soo dhex martay farsamada dharka ee aan kor ku soo sheegnay, ee Takahashi's timaha fardaha xumbada leh ama dharka lagu tilmaamay inay yihiin laalaab la'aan, qaab-dejinta, shaqaynaysa, fudud, la dhaqi karo, aan birta ahayn. Dhammaan waxyaalaha nolosha casriga ah ee sii xumaanaysa ayaa laga yaabaa inay u baahdaan dharka - xanuunnada safarka casriga ah, oo lagu xalliyo hal mar.
Ma hubo in sida ugu wanaagsan loo soo koobay jacquards ee kabaha fardaha (reer galbeedka badan) kuwaas oo sawirkoodu u ekaa Ettore Sottsass ee dhadhanka-dhammaadka ama dharka dharka ee '80s sitcom' oo lagu badbaadiyay Bell, waxay kuxirantahay casriyeynta isha. Waxaan la fadhiistay kii dambe. Dharka gaaban ee wareegyada degdega ah ee tolida gaaban ayaa sidoo kale ahaa bixitaan qaawan (Deyr, qofbaa?). Laakiin sawir-qaade Kenji Hirasawa sawir-qaadista heerkulbeegga ee cajiibka ah, oo si geesinimo leh ugu daabacay dharka Takahashi, ma siiyeen kaliya safar maskaxeed, laakiin dareenka bini'aadamka hoostiisa ku nool. Jirkooda, hubaal, laakiin sidoo kale baahidooda, iyada oo loo marayo maro. Kaas oo udub dhexaad u ahaa ururintan soo jiidashada cajiibka ah.