Palazzo Vecchio, oo ah wadnaha magaalada, oo la aasaasay 1299, ayaa leh mid ka mid ah qolalka ugu yaabka badan Florence: Salone dei Cinquecento, oo martigelisay bandhigga dharka Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria Menswear.
Florentine Lily waxay u egtahay, abaal-marin magaalada, waxaa ka mid ah funaanadaha xariirta ah ee organza oo gebi ahaanba lagu daboolay baalal by workshop Mazzanti Piume, surwaalka moiré, brocade iyo jacquard iyo dacasyo ku jira suede.
Jaakad-jaakad-ka-muuqaalka ah waxaa lagu sameeyay brocade by Antico Setificio Fiorentino waxaana lagu dhejiyay surwaal jilicsan, shaati satin xariir ah iyo maro, dacas brocade oo leh maraqa iyo taaj, usha iyo silsilada Paolo Penko.
Sida astaanta Renaissance, oo uu qurxiyey naqshadeeyaha Giorgio Vasari oo uu u xilsaaray Cosimo I de' Medici, hoolkan quruxda badan ayaa ka muuqday qurxinta dabaqa ee astaanta magaalada: ubaxa Florentine.
Dhismuhu waxa uu soo bandhigay qolal aad u wanaagsan oo muujinaya saqafyo rinji saliid leh oo cajiib ah oo ay sameeyeen qaar ka mid ah fanaaniinta ugu caansan iyo naqshadeeyayaasha Renaissance.
Meesha ugu haboon ee xaflada oo bixinaysa sharafta talyaaniga iyo abuurista Fatto a Mano.
Domenico Dolce iyo Stefano Gabbana waxay had iyo jeer qiimeeyaan dadaalka iyo xiisaha ka dambeeya abuurista qaybo gacmeed. Farsamoyaqaannada maxalliga ah ee Florence iyo Regionale Toscana ayaa ah sayidyada farshaxankan, farshaxan isku dara caadooyinkii hore iyo hal-abuurnimada mustaqbalka.
Hal-abuurka cusub ee Alta Sartoria ee caawa lagu soo bandhigay Florence ee Palazzo Vecchio waa matalaada ugu fiican ee Dolce & Gabbana jacaylka Fatto a Mano iyo Made in Italy.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria Ururinta Dharka Ragga Julaay 2020
Bandhiga - waxaa soo bandhigay duqa da'da yar Dario Nardella, oo sidoo kale soo bandhigtay jilaa Monica Bellucci furayaasha magaalada - waxay soo bandhigtay 100 muuqaal waxayna calaamadisay dhacdadii ugu horeysay ee catwalk ee guri fashion ah oo la amaanay tan iyo markii dunidu ay gashay xiritaanka Covid-19 gu'gan.
Dhammaan waxa lagu soo bandhigay gudaha Salone dei Cinquecento, qolka golaha sare ee aadka u weyn ee lagu qurxiyey frescoes-ka weyn ee Giorgio Vasari, qofkii ugu horreeyay ee isticmaala ereyga Renaissance daabacan.
Dhamaan Domenico Dolce iyo Stefano Gabbana waxay tixraaceen astaamaha waaweyn ee Renaissance - Michelangelo, Leonardo, Ghirlandaio iyo Botticelli. Turjumaada fikradaha bini'aadantinimada ee waagaas - halkaas oo ninku, oo aan ilaah ahayn, uu noqday xudunta koonka - labbisyo aad u weyn. Isku soo wada duuboo labbiska ducal ee mink, bullion iyo daabacaadda dahabka ah. U qalma Cosimo de 'Medici, iyo ku celcelinta sawirada taliyayaashii Florence, ee ay jecel yihiin Salviati. Sawirada Lorenzo the Magnificent iyo Giovanni dalle Bande Nere, condottiere ugu weyn ee waagii, xitaa ka muuqday on tunics brocade dahab ah.
Daqiiqado kale oo geesinimo leh, labada nin waxay wareejiyeen sawirka dagaalyahan iyagoo ku dhex jira seefo, warmo iyo bugooyin lagu arkay Vasari's fresco weyn ee Battle of Marciano oo ku dhejiyay jaakad labbis ah oo cajiib ah oo lagu dhejiyay jacquard lapels oo astrakhan ah.
Waxaa intaa dheer, midabada hodanka ah ee frescoes-kaas waxay u muuqdeen taxane ah suudhadh si fiican loo gooyay oo si fiican loo gooyay - oo ka kooban jaakadaha naasaha leh ee fiiqan ee fiiqan iyo jilicsan oo ku dhammeeyey surwaalka canqowga.
Dhammaan ra'yiga ayaa si fudud ugu dhici kara cliché, marka laga reebo dhamaadka inuu ahaa mid cajiib ah, palette midabkiisu aad u daran yahay iyo dareenka dabbaaldegga oo aad loo xasuusto. Marka la soo koobo, labiska ragga ee ragga ay kala soocaan oo gaadha heerka couture-ka-haute ee lagu gaaro haweenka adduunka ugu qanisan.
"Aniga oo ka fekeraya, ka dib markii aan wakhtigan oo dhan ku qaatay halkan farshaxan-yaqaannada maxalliga ah, waxaan ogaaday in doorka dhabta ah ee Talyaanigu uu yahay isticmaalka fikrado qadiimi ah oo cusub ayaa abuuraya quruxda adduunka."
Domenico ayaa sidaa ku sheegay shir jaraa’id oo horudhac u ahaa bandhiga bandhiga gudaha goob qadiimi ah, isaga oo hurinaya sacab sacab ah oo ka imaanayay kooxda la shiray oo ka kooban 100 ka mid ah dadkii ay wada dhasheen.
Shan qarni ka hor, Leonardo da Vinci waxa uu mar isku dayay hab cusub oo uu ku qallajiyo mid ka mid ah sawirradiisa Salone dei Cinquecento, isaga oo laadlaadsan biraha dhuxusha ee kulul oo kaliya ku guulaystay in ay dhalaaliyaan rinjiga, taas oo keentay in midabada ay ku ordaan barkad dhulka ah. Laakiin wax walba ayaa si aad u wanaagsan uga shaqeeyay ururintan. Dhammaan habka xarfaha dahsoon ee dhowr tuxedos, akhrinta Cerca Trova, taasoo la micno ah Raadi oo Raadi, tixraac khuraafaad ah in haraaga haraaga fresco ee Leonardo uu wali ku qarsoon yahay shaqada dambe ee Vasari.
Bandhiga ka dib, martida ayaa lagu daaweeyay bandhig faneed cajiib ah oo tamburini iyo sbandieratori - durbaanka iyo calanka oo lulaya dharka dhaqameedka ee u socda durbaanka si qurux badan iyadoo boqolaal dadka deegaanka ah ay ka soo daawadeen dhinaca fog ee Piazza della Signoria.
Si la yaab leh, sida saxda ah ee uu u dhaqmo Dominican Girolamo Savonarola, oo muddo afar sano ah xukumay Florence, wuxuu soo bandhigay dab-qabadkiisii waxyaalihii aan waxtarka lahayn - markii shaqooyinka farshaxanka ee Botticelli iyo cajalado, muraayado, qurxiyo iyo farshaxan halka la burburiyay - ayaa la toogtay 1498.
Runtii, Savonarola waxa ay ka naxsan lahayd xad-dhaafka ammaanta badan ee ururintan Alta Sartoria oo ay weheliso is-xilqaankeeda ugu sarreeya iyo niyad-jabka. Bayaanka moodada ee quruxda badan oo bixinaya aragti mustaqbal ifaya oo ifaya dhamaadka tunnel-ka Covid-19.
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