Raf Simons Gu'ga/Xagaaga 2017 Pitti Uomo

Anonim

Horaantii sanadkan, Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation waxay la xiriirtay Raf Simons. Waxay weydiiyeen haddii uu jeclaan lahaa inuu iyaga wax kala shaqeeyo. Haa buu yidhi. Taasi waa nooca gaagaaban ee sheekada ka dambeysa ururinta uu ku soo bandhigay Pitti Immagine Uomo, oo si fiican ugu riyaaqay bandhigyada Mapplethorpe ee LACMA iyo Matxafka Getty, iyo dukumentiga HBO oo cinwaan looga dhigay Fiiri Sawirrada. Waxay ahayd waqtigii saxda ahaa. Simons waa taageere Mapplethorpe ah, sidaas darteed waxay ahayd farshaxanka saxda ah. "Waa la i sharfay," Simons ayaa yidhi ka dib bandhiggiisa, codkiisa oo gariiraya qiiro. Sidaa awgeed waxa uu meesha ka saaray fikradda uu ka shaqaynayay ee ururinta (ma muujin doono waxa ay tahay; waxa laga yaabaa, ayuu yidhi, in uu soo baxo bandhig dambe) oo bilaabay wada shaqayntiisii ​​ugu dambaysay ee fannaanka.

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Raf Simons Gu'ga: Xagaaga 2017 Pitti Uomo

Caadi ahaan, marka Simons uu la shaqeeyo farshaxan, wuu u dhawaadaa iyaga. Markan, firfircoonidu xoogaa way beddeshay. Deeqsinimada deeqda Mapplethorpe Foundation waxay ka muuqataa deeqsinimada tarjumaadda Simons: Ma jiro wax dhar ah oo ku jira Simons's Guga 2017 oo muujinaya daabacaadda sawir-qaadista ee Mapplethorpe. Noocyadiisa lab ee timo-laaban, oo leh koofiyadaha rookaha ee maqaar ah, ayaa inta badan la mid ah sawir qaadaha laftiisa - in kasta oo Simons uu sheegay, halkii uu ka ahaan lahaa fannaaniinta doppelgängers, "wiil kastaa waa matalaad qayb shaqo." Mid kastaa wuxuu noqon karaa fadhiista Mapplethorpe. Shaadhadhka musqulaha ahi waxay lahaayeen hadhka madxafka caanka ah ee Mapplethorpe ee Patti Smith oo ku yaal daboolka albamkeeda Horses. Robert Sherman, oo ah moodel kaas oo alopecia uu maqaarkiisa ka dhigay marmar marmar sawirradiisa badan ee uu toogtay Mapplethorpe, ayaa sidoo kale ka soo qayb galay bandhigga. Simons waa inay nadiifiyaan xuquuqda dhinac saddexaad ee fadhiyayaasha oo dhan ka hor intaysan dib u soo saarin sawiradooda. Waxay bilowday wada hadal taasoo keentay in la geliyo qaybta Simons ee shaqada Mapplethorpe.

Marka la yiri, fanaanku wuxuu u fadhiistay naftiisa wax badan. Mapplethorpe waxay ahayd dabeecad soo jiidasho leh, farshaxankuna waa mid aan ka baxsan karin ninka. "Haddii aad ka fikirto shaqada, aad bay ugu badan tahay isaga," ayuu yiri Simons, iyo, runtii, waxay ahayd wax badan oo ku saabsan dharka uu xirtay, sidoo kale. Safarka is-oggolaanshaha galmada, qaar badan oo ka mid ah sawirada Mapplethorpe ee ugu horreeya waxay ahaayeen Polaroid is-sawir, oo lagu dhajiyay qalabka maqaarka, tijaabinta xadka raaxada iyo xanuunka. Ka dib, wuxuu diiwaangeliyay uurjiifkiisa galmada; goobta maqaarka iyo BDSM inta badan. Dharka ayaa ahaa qayb muhiim ah: Hal mar, Mapplethorpe waxa uu bilaabay in uu iskala bixiyo nigistiisa (xiran) ee ka samaysan alwaax si uu u sameeyo farshaxanno aan caadi ahayn; ka dib, wuxuu isku xidhay harag madow.

Simons wuu ogyahay waxaas oo dhan. Sidaa darteed xaqiiqda uu u ixtiraamay Mapplethorpe wuxuu dareemay si buuxda u wareegsan, aad u qiiro badan iyo run. Daahsoonaanshaha tixraacyada badan ee Simons ayaa siisay qoto-dheeraanta muujinta - palette-kiisa madow; caddaan; midabada jilicsan ee jilicsan ee casaan, casaan iyo casaan; iyo burgundy oo ah dhiig xinjirsan; maqaarrada haragga ah ee birqaya baaldiyo macdan ah. Simons wuxuu qaatay laba galabnimo isagoo ku dhex mushaaxaya kaydka Mapplethorpe ee xaashida xiriirka. Waxa uu la halgamay erey-bixinta Ingiriisiga si uu u qeexo kuwa: Waxa uu ugu yeedhay "maab", taas oo ah fikrad aad u xiiso badan oo kicinaysa markii lagu dabaqay raadinta Simons, si loo helo dhul cusub oo Mapplethorpe ah, si uu u dareemo mid ku habboon oo xiiso u leh jiilka cusub. . Taasi waa waxa uu u arkay doorkiisa.

Aniguna waxaan ahay taageere Mapplethorpe ah. Ma caawin kari waayay, laakiin isbahaysigan ayaa muujinaya xiisaha Mapplethorpe ee looxyada, iyadoo la siinayo sawirkiisa shay saddex-geesood ah, tayo farshaxan leh oo lagu dhejiyo oo lagu dhejiyo maro-jilicsan iyo alwaaxyo qalaad, oo ku dhejinaya sawirka walxaha. Samaynta sawirradiisa in ka badan inta laga yaabo inay marka hore muuqdaan. Simons ayaa sawirada Mapplethorpe ku dhejiyay maro, laakiin ka dibna waxay ku sii dhejiyeen jidhka: sawir ku daabacan tabard, dheh, dusha sare ee daahyada jaakadaha jaakada, ama lagu muujiyay funaanad hoosta shaabad dabacsan. Simons waxa uu u soo jiitay dhanka Mapplethorpe sawiradiisa galmoodka ah ee ubaxa, sawiradiisa ku haboon ee maadooyinka caanka ah sida Debbie Harry, oo lagu qabtay koronka iftiinka, iyo fanaaniinta uu Simons sidoo kale la wadaago qadarinta, sida Alice Neel, oo la qabsaday usbuuc ama wax ka badan ka hor dhimashadeeda sawir aan caadi ahayn 1984 Galmada ayaa halkaas ku jirtay, sidoo kale; Simons wuu ku adkaystay taas. Jaakad hoos loo dhigay ayaa si xusuus leh u soo jeestay si ay u muujiso sawirka phallus taagan.

Waxa kale oo uu adeegsaday weedha "curation" si uu u qeexo bandhigan: "Waxaan rabay inaan u dhawaado sida bandhiga matxafka, ama bandhigga gallery. Kaas oo la sameeyay marar badan marka ay timaado shaqada Mapplethorpe. Cindy Sherman wuu sameeyay, David Hockney wuu sameeyay. Laakiin had iyo jeer ku jira gallery. " Simons wuu weji gabay. "Waxaan ahay naqshadeeye fashion. Waxaan u maleynayay in caqabada ugu weyn ay tahay inaan ku sameeyo deegaankayga."

Dhinaca curatorial ayaa loo sameeyay fikrad soo jiidasho leh, gaar ahaan waqti ay naqshadeeyayaal badan ku habboon yihiin oo tixraac la'aan - iyo marka dad badan ay ku tuuraan agagaarka falka "curate." Waxay tilmaan u tahay dabeecadda Simons-ixtiraam, aamusnaan, garaad heersare ah -inuu arkay ururintan oo aan ahayn hal-abuurnimadiisa sawirka Mapplethorpe ee la taabtay, laakiin iskaashi la mid ah bandhigga gallery, halkaas oo doorkiisu ahaa, ugu yaraan qayb ahaan, ugu fiicnaanta. soo bandhiga shaqooyinkii loo dhiibay. Laakiin sidoo kale waxay ahayd in loo isticmaalo shaqooyinkaas si loogu sheego sheeko cusub, xiiso leh, oo kicinaysa. Si aad noo tusiso wax cusub oo ka yimid kaydadka Mapplethorpe ee caanka ah, oo aad loo arkay. Taas oo uu shaki la’aan sameeyay.

Akhri wax dheeraad ah