Pokellong e ncha ea banna ea Fall/Mariha 2020 J.W. Anderson: Tlotla ho Wojnarowicz le Rimbaud Paris
Palo ea mannequins e ne e lutse moleng o ka pele ho J W Anderson ka Laboraro nakong ea lijo tsa mots'eare, banna ba metšoasong ba nang le lihlooho tse koahetsoeng ke khateboto ba sehiloeng sefahlehong sa Arthur Rimbaud. Tlotla e seng feela ho seroki sa Lefora empa le ho David Wojnarowicz, sets'oants'o, setaki, moitseki oa AIDS le setšoantšo sa lequloana la Lower East Side.
'Me khothatso ea pontšo e bululetsoeng ke Anderson, polelo ea morao-rao e matla ea moetsi oa Brithani ea nang le tšusumetso e kholo. E behiloe ka har'a Litebello tsa Lafayette, motheo oa bonono oa lebenkele le leholo la mabenkele a Fora, pontšo e ne e boetse e le sethabathaba se bohloko sa nako e lefifi lefatšeng la pōpo la New York, ha AIDS e ne e felisa sechaba.
Rimbaud e ne e le khothatso e kholo ho Wojnarowicz ea hahileng pontšo eohle ea bonono ho pota-pota lifoto tsa hae a apere maske a tšoanang a seroki, a thunya litšoantšo lijong tsa daffy, libaka tsa ho paka tse sa sebelisoeng le lifeme tse chesitsoeng.
Bongata ba pokello bo ne bo entsoe ka lijase tsa humongous ka mefuta e mengata ea masela - silika e koetsoeng, lesapo la herring bold, jacquard ea crinkly kapa licheke tsa Scotland - hangata li ne li phethoa ka li-buckles tsa khauta tse boholo bo boholo ba JW tse neng li shebahala joalo ka li-brooch tsa basali tse holisitsoeng. Libōpeho tse ngata tsa jase tse tšoanang le sekoahelo se tummeng sa buka ea Wojnarowicz ea Weight of the Earth, moo a hlahang a phuthetsoe ka kobo e khōlō betheng.
Makhapetla a ts'oana a ile a qeta marikhoe a makhutšoane a makhooa a Maindia kapa li-slippers tsa letlalo tsa toropo. Le hoja khopolo e sebete ea Anderson e ne e le li-singles tse tšoeu, tse phethiloeng ka matheka a silika a accordion. Kapa li-sweaters tse nang le li-natty tse nang le melala le mahetla a khabisitsoeng ka liperela tsa maiketsetso tse kholo.
Bophelo ba ˝Davis e ne e le puisano ea se neng se etsahala Amerika le lefats'e ka nako eo. Ke fumane hore ea hae e ne e le mohopolo oa JW oa ho phatlola lintho kapa ho sebelisa seha sa khutlotharo. Ha u sheba mokhoa oa ho etsa sehlahisoa se seholo, 'me ho e-na le ho ba le lijase tse 15 mohlomong u na le seaparo se le seng ka lisebelisoa tse ngata' me u se ntlafatse, ho fihlela moo ho utloang eka esale se le teng. Joalo ka sefahleho sa Rimbaud. E lula e le teng, hoo e ka bang joaloka Marilyn Monroe, empa phetolelo ea thothokiso ea sekhukhu, ˝ o hlalositse Anderson, a pota-potiloe ke bahlophisi ba ka bang 30 ba ntseng ba ikitlaelletsa ho hatisa mantsoe a hae lithelefonong tsa bona tsa cellular.
Esita le mosebetsi oa Wojnarowicz o nang le stencil o ile oa kenngoa letotong la lihlopha tse kholo tsa li-chunky pullovers kapa li-tote tse koahetsoeng ke boea, tse phethiloeng ka litšoantšo tse khaotsoeng tsa matlo a tukang.
˝David e ne e le sebini se tsoetseng pele hoo a neng a etsa bonono ka listense lilemo pele ho Banksy. David e ne e le Amerika ha e utloa eka ke pheletso ea lefatše, empa ho ne ho se joalo. Joalo ka Rimbaud, moo ho nang le tšepo le haeba ho le boima haholo, ˝ o ile a pheha khang Anderson.
Lefu la molekane oa hae, Peter Hujar, ho tloha AIDS ka 1987 le ile la lebisa Wojnarowicz lipolotiking tse matla haholo bophelong ba hae le mosebetsing - le letoto la bohlokoa la litemoso le likoranta tsa lentsoe. Rimbaud o ile a bolaoa ke kankere ea masapo a le lilemo li 35 ka 1891. Lejoe la hae la lebitla Charleville le baleha 'Priez pour lui' (mo rapelle). Wojnarowicz o entse lilemo tse 37, a bolaoa ke AIDS lapeng la hae la Manhattan ka 1992.
J.W. Anderson Menswear Selemo/Lehlabula la 2020 Paris
Tšusumetso ea bona, leha ho le joalo, e ntse e phela ka bokhabane.