Pokellong ea hae ea pele ea banna le basali, Thom Browne Ready To Wear Fall/Mariha 2020 Paris e beha batho ba bong bo lekanang, ba ba kopanya ka ho roka.
Haeba metsi a ntseng a phahama a Balenciaga a ile a siea motho a e-na le maikutlo a tlokotsi le letobo, ho ile ha tla areka ea Thom Browne ho pholosa letsatsi ka maikutlo a kang a ngoana.
Mona ke setupong: Ho bonts'a banna le basali tseleng ea lifofane hammoho ka lekhetlo la pele, moqapi o beha batho ba bong bo lekanang - ka ho toba - ka mokhoa o utloahalang, thibela lieta tsa Ghillie serethe. E ne e le motsamao o motle.
Ho ne ho se ho se ho ile hoa basali ba apereng lieta tsa sethala tse tsietsang ba tlamehang ho felehetsoa ho tsoa tseleng ka mor'a ho akheha. Ho ne ho se ho ile, hape, ho ne ho se ho e-na le mese ea hobble le matsoho a tlanngoeng, ao ka linako tse ling a neng a fana ka maikutlo a hore ho na le sebaka se foufetseng sa misogynistic. Ho e-na le hoo, ba ne ba tsamaea tseleng e hlollang ea lehloa, ba ne ba tsamaellana le mefuta ea hae le ea hae, e apereng ka mokhoa o ts'oanang le mese, mese le lisutu.
Empa, kaha kaofela ha bona ba ne ba roetse masira a matšo lifahlehong tsa bona (a tlanngoe ka lithakhisa tse nyenyane tsa moriri, e 'ngoe le e 'ngoe e khomaretsoe ka hloko ka lente la Thom Browne le khubelu, le lesoeu le le leputsoa), ho ne ho le thata ho tseba hore na ke lefe, 'me e ne e le ntlha eo. Ka lebaka la Janelle Monáe (ea lutseng moleng o ka pele), Billy Porter, Laverne Cox le li-trailblazers tse ling tse ngata, ha ho sa na taba.
E bapala ho latela pale, moetso o mong le o mong o ne o nkile mokotla o fapaneng oa letlalo o bōpehileng joaloka phoofolo. Ho ne ho e-na le tse 33 ka kakaretso serapeng sa liphoofolo sa Browne - lithuhlo, likhoho, mebutlanyana, matata, litšukulu, likonyana le tse ling, 'me ho ne ho le monate ka ho fetisisa ho leka ho li khetholla kaofela. (Areka eohle e ne e tšoantšoa ka lijase tse tsoakiloeng tsa li-tweed, cheke, lifensetere le pinstripe bucolic-scene patchwork coats.)
"Ke ne ke nahana hore ke tla fifatsa mela e lipakeng tsa monna le mosali, 'me ba apare ntho e ts'oanang, ka masela a tšoanang le ho lekana ka holimo le tlase," ho boletse Browne ka morao ho sethala. “Re ile ra qala ka bobeli ka bobeli ka arekeng ea Noe, ra ba ra kena ka bobeli tse tsoakaneng, hobane ke kamoo bophelo bo lokelang ho ba kateng hona joale, batho ba tšoanela ho ba le mang kapa mang eo ba mo batlang,” a phaella ka ho hlalosa tsoelo-pele ea lenaneo ho fihlela qetellong moo mehlala e ts'oarane ka matsoho le molekane ea fapaneng.
Eli Bernard bakeng sa Phatlalatso ea Makasine ea PnVFashionablymale la 02 Phato 2019 (Digital Feela)
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Ripp Baker bakeng sa Makasine ea PnV Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Digital Only)
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Steve Grand bakeng sa khatiso ea feshene ea Male Mag Pride 2021
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E lekantsoe 5.00 ho tse 5 tse ipapisitseng le lintlha tse 5 tsa bareki
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Lance Parker bakeng sa Tokollo ya Makasine ya PnVFashionablymale la 03 Mphalane 2019 (Digital Feela)
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Sean Daniels bakeng sa Makasine ea PnV Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Digital Only)
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Andrew Biernat bakeng sa Phatlalatso ea Makasine ea PnVFashionablymale la 03 Mphalane 2019 (Digital Feela)
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Alex Sewall bakeng sa Khatiso ea Makasine ea PnVFashionablymale 04 Jan/Feb 2020 (Digital Only)
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Nick Sandell bakeng sa Phatlalatso ea Makasine ea PnVFashionablymale 07 Oct/Nov 2020 (Digital Feela)
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Chris Anderson bakeng sa Phatlalatso ea Makasine ea PnVFashionablymale la 06 Phupu 2020 (Digital Feela)
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E lekantsoe 5.00 ho tsoa ho 5 ho ipapisitsoe le lintlha tse 1 tsa bareki
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Liaparo e ne e le nako ea ho bapala ka tweed e ntšo le e tšoeu ea Harris, eo Browne a neng a e sebelisa e le seile bakeng sa mekhoa ea hae e babatsehang ea ho senya, trompe l'oeil, patchwork le proportion play.
Repertoire ea hae e felletseng, e kopanyang bong e ne e le ponts'o, ho tloha ho nouveau prep (mese ea popi ea bana e 'mala o moputsoa e nang le organza e mebala-bala, lijase tsa mekotla le lijase tse nang le mela ea silika le likhoele tsa argyle) ho ea ho nouveau dandy (liaparo tsa trompe l'oeil tsa "motho". ,” ho fapana le phokojoe, masholu); khoebo eohle (liaparo tse bohlooho tsa flannel le maqhama a apereng ka li-skirts tsa lebokose la pleat); le LeBron baller (patchwork parka e nang le mapheo a robehileng le marikhoe a tšoanang).
Thom Browne Menswear Selemo/Lehlabula 2020 Paris
Lijase tse telele tsa cardigan le mese e metebole li ile tsa eketsa maikutlo a ho sisinyeha ho lisilhouette tse thata tsa Browne ka linako tse ling, le litlhōrō le mese e hahelletsoeng bocha ka marikhoe, libaki le lihempe tse entsoeng liteko. E ne eka ke Genese ea sebele.