Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Rory Parnell-Mooney
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
Charles Jeffrey
LONDON, JANUARY 8, 2016
ka ALEXANDER FURY
London's menswear incubator incubator MAN-e leng khoebo e kopanetsoeng lipakeng tsa Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East initiative le Arcadia behemoth Topman to hurray a triumvirate of menswear stars-e thehiloe ka 2005. 'Me linaleli tse ngata li tsoetsoe ke eona-haholo-holo, Craig Green le Jonathan Anderson.
Leha ho le joalo, fesheneng e ntseng e penya ka ho eketsehileng ea kajeno, ua ipotsa hore na bacha ba feshene—joaloka sehlopha sa Kennedy sa baqapi ba MAN—ba ka etsa bofokoli joang, re se re sa re letho ka tšusumetso. Karabo ke efe? Ka ho fana ka ho hong ho fapaneng: ho se sekisetse, motho ea bohale, tatso e fumanoeng ka qeto. Lebala mesifa ea papatso ea limilione tse ngata, MAN e na le moxie.
Bonyane, e entse bakeng sa Fall 2016, moo baqapi ba bararo ba faneng ka maikutlo a ikhethileng mabapi le bonna ba mehleng ena: bashanyana ba sekolo ba K'hatholike ba apereng liaparo tse ntšo ba ile ba itlotsa mahetla ka moetapele oa mekete ea mabenyane oa West Indian ea ileng a lateloa ke ngoana ea mahlahahlaha, ea mahlahahlaha, ea mahlahahlaha East London. ka lifolete tsa Mokha oa Sebata sa Mokete le seaparo se senyenyane sa corduroy se kopantsoeng. Ho hloka mefuta eohle ho etsa hore lefatše la feshene le tsamaee.
MAN o etsa joalo. Sheba Anderson le Green, bao meralo ea bona e susumelitseng feshene lefatšeng ka bophara: Tšoaea palo ea lipontšo tsa banna le tsa basali tse nang le maqhama (letšoao la khoebo la Green), kapa palo ea basali ba hlahisang lipapali tsa banna (à la Anderson).
Sehla sena se ne se le Grace Wales Bonner-le hoja a ne a se a nkile Khau ea British Fashion le ho pepeseha lefatšeng ka bophara, e ne e le bethe e tiileng eo ka ho utloahalang a sa kang a suthela hōle le mokhoa oa hae o hlophisitsoeng. Foromo eo ke e tona e khabisitsoeng, ho ipapisitsoe le West Indies; Wales Bonner o hlahlobile lihlooho tse susumetsoang ke Maafrika nakong eohle ea mosebetsi oa hae, oo, leha e le bokhutšoane (a qetileng London's Central Saint Martins likhoeling tse 18 tse fetileng), e bile ntho e makatsang. A amehile haholo ka nalane - e ruileng lipale ebile e ruile ka pono - Wales Bonner ka boeena o boletse ka morao hore ha a utloe eka ha a bone letho ho eona. Ke ka lebaka leo moferefere oa 1970s le 1870s, oa lipina tsa makhoba a Maafrika-Amerika, Bollywood, le Afrofuturists ea psychedelic, moqapi oa Leaerishe oa Nigeria Tunde Jegede a letsa harepa ea Afrika Bophirima ha mehlala e ntse e tsamaea. Meetso eo e ne e roala mash-up e 'ngoe ea Funkadelic wide-lapel tailoring, Victoriana crystal e behiloe ka har'a li-tracksuit tse silky, le lihempe tse huleloang ka thata thekeng, joalo ka mese ea cotillion. Bosadi? Wales Bonner o ile a hlonama. "Ke mabapi le ho tlisa botle le boits'oaro bo botle ho liaparo tsa banna," o boletse joalo. Empa ke mang ea bolelang hore e ke ke ea e-ba monna?
Khoele eo—ea lipotso e ileng ea fumana maikutlo a hore motho o rohakane—ke eona e ileng ea kopanya MAN enoa ménage à trois. Rory Parnell-Mooney o ile a khutlela lilemong tsa hae tsa bocha sekolong sa K'hatholike, a hatisa mapetjo a kang "Nancy Boy" (pina ea sehlopha sa Placebo) kapa "Bakang" (ha ho na meputso bakeng sa tšimoloho ea seo) liaparong tse neng li thothomela selibeng- yunifomo e tiisitsoeng ea bacha ba lelekiloeng: li-hoodies, lihempe tse bohlasoa, li-sweatshirts, '90s nostalgia. Ha ho pelaelo hore u se u kile ua e bona e leketla setsing sa mabenkele se haufi le uena.
Mohlomong seaparo seo se fetohile, leha ho le joalo? Ke maikutlo ao u bileng le ona ho Charles Jeffrey, eo sehlopha sa hae sa marabele a hlabiloeng, a phofshoana le a mabenyane a neng a tsotella litotomo tsa khateboto. E ne e le bona ba neng ba apere mese empa hape ba apere lijase tse koetsoeng (Jeffrey o ba bitsitse "ba tšohile," mokhoa oa bona oa ho roka o bonahatsa li-tic le li-hugs tse khethollang ho tšoenyeha). E ne e shebahala e le bohlasoa. Mona ke ntho e bohlale: ka morao ho sethala ho ne ho se joalo. Liaparo tse lohiloeng, haholo-holo, tse nang le senyepa se phahameng sa marapo, mahetla a khaotsoeng, kapa patch ea buckshot pointelle sefubeng, ha se tšoanelehe feela ho tšoaneleha, empa le tlhokomelo. Baqapi bana kaofela ba. Itokisetse tšusumetso.