Antonio Marras Fall/Winter 2016 Milan

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MILAN, JANUARI 18, 2016

by TIZIANA CARDINI

Antonio Marras ni msimuliaji mzuri wa hadithi. Pengine angetengeneza mkurugenzi mzuri wa filamu au mbunifu—anafahamu vyema aina mbalimbali za kujieleza kwa kisanii. Yeye huzunguka bure katika stratosphere ya ubunifu, lakini daima anarudi Sardinia, mahali pake pa kuzaliwa na chanzo cha mara kwa mara cha kuzaliwa upya. Kwa safari ya Fall Marras ilichukua njia ya kustaajabisha kuelekea Texas—mahali panapoonekana kuwa kwenye ramani kwa wabunifu wachache msimu huu. Bado Texas ya Marras haikuwa ya aina ya kisasa iliyoongozwa na Richard Prince. Hii ilikuwa Texas katika toleo lake mbovu, la Kiitaliano: yaani, tambi za Sergio Leone za magharibi za miaka ya '70 ambazo zilikuwa za kuchekesha, zenye sauti kubwa, karibu mambo ya katuni—lakini ziliaminika sana hivi kwamba zilimtia moyo Quentin Tarantino mara kadhaa. Marras aligundua kuwa baadhi ya sinema hizo za B-janja zilikuwa zimerekodiwa katika kijiji kisichokuwa na watu huko Sardinia ya kijijini.

Msukumo huu ulimfanya mbunifu kuandaa seti ya rustic kwa onyesho lake, kwa hivyo ilikuwa ya kweli iliyojaa marobota halisi ya nyasi kama viti vya hadhira. Onyesho hilo pia lilikuwa na onyesho la muziki la genge lenye sura nzuri la vijana wa kuchunga ng'ombe, ambao walicheza na kuimba kwa kuacha kabisa. “Siku zote nimekuwa nikivutiwa na uhuru wa nafasi wazi zisizo na mwisho; kutoka kisiwani, hisia zisizo za kawaida za kuwa mbali wakati mwingine zinaweza kuathiri,” alisema Marras. "Siku zote nilitaka kufikia kadri niwezavyo, nikitamani kuvunja vizuizi na mipaka, angalau na mawazo yangu, na kuwa wazi kwa kile kisichojulikana na tofauti." Mkusanyiko wake ulionyesha roho hii ya bure, na ilivuka jinsia na tamaduni. Mise-en-scène ilikuwa na wahusika wa kuvutia: Majambazi wa Sardinian katika kilt za Scotland; nomads wa rustic kutoka kwenye nyasi katika jaketi mbaya za tweed; wasafiri katika hoods na manyoya, pamoja na tabaka ya jaketi padded camouflage; wasafiri katika nguo nzito za pamba zenye mafuta. Mapambo yalitawanyika kila mahali, na kuongeza sauti ya kike ambayo ilishuka kwenye gwaride la nguo nzuri za muda mrefu kutoka kwa mkusanyiko wa wanawake wa Pre-Fall. Walikuwa huvaliwa na manyoya kwa ajili ya kugusa ya whimsy kifalme. Athari ya jumla ilikuwa ya kufurahisha, ya kuinua lakini inayopakana na ya ajabu. Ingawa ilikuwa burudani nzuri, na mkusanyiko haukuwahi kuhisi uko nje ya udhibiti.

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