Isemthethweni. Ifashoni yokuthanda iNtwasahlobo kuhambo-izithethantonye, eneneni, ziyakhawuleza ukuphuma ukuchaza abahambi, abajikelezayo, abajikelezayo iliso labayili. Kukho ezintathu ezingasebenziyo, kanye apho. Loo ngcamango yokunyakaza okungapheliyo ayiyona nje into ekhuthazayo kuKim Jones-yindlela yokuphila. Uyindoda ebanjwe kukuzulazula, indoda ehambe iyodwa ukuya eJapan ngaphezu kwezihlandlo ezingama-70 kule minyaka ilishumi idluleyo, kunye neendawo ezininzi ngaphandle kwazo.
Ukuhambisana noJones ngumsebenzi onzima. Ngokufanelekileyo, unikwe umsebenzi wokuyila iimpahla zamadoda zikaLouis Vuitton, indlu ekusekwe kuyo i-raison d'être yayiyingcamango yomhambi. Kunqabile ukuba yintoni kodwa apho ngokulandelayo noJones, xa kufikwa kwinkuthazo. Imiboniso yenza i-seams.
Kwenzeka njani ke, ukuba kwisizini ezayo uJones agqibe ekubeni angaphuncuki, kodwa abuye? Umboniso wakhe we-Spring Louis Vuitton wawungekho malunga nokuhamba-kunoko, ukubuyela ekhaya. Ngendlela eqhelekileyo yaseJones, loo nto ayihambelani nendawo enye, kodwa i-trio: i-Afrika, apho wakhulela khona; eLondon, apho wafunda khona; kunye neParis, apho ahlala kwaye esebenza ngoku.
Ezi zimbini zokugqibela zezona zazibonakala kakhulu: IAfrika, indawo ephuma kuyo izikhumba ezitofotofo zangaphandle zengwenya neenciniba, iitshekhi eziphefumlelwe ngamaMasai, kunye nebala elimhlophe lesavanna elimnyama nelimdaka ngesanti elilawulwa yibuff, taupe, neecru (besingayibiza loo nto). beige); ngelixa iLondon inikezela ngepunk. “Kusoloko kukho into encinci yaseLondon efihlwe ndaweni ithile,” watsho uJones. Enyanisweni, kwakukho okuninzi. UJones ngumqokeleli okhutheleyo wepunk memorabilia-iqela lakhe leVivienne Westwood kunye nemveliso kaMalcolm McLaren ukusuka kwixesha labo leSex kunye neSeditionaries liyinto yesibini nanye, kubandakanywa nemyuziyam eninzi-kwaye wayisebenzisa kakuhle njengemathiriyeli yereferensi yengqokelela yobukhoboka-buckled. ibhulukhwe, i-D-rings, kunye neekhola zezinja, nangona zigqitywe ngokugqithiseleyo ngefashoni yesiFrentshi. Loo khola yenja, ngengozi, yayisisitayile seVuitton sogcino, esiqhele ukusetyenziselwa iipooches, ezibizwa ngokuba yi "Baxter."
Yayizezo zingaqhelekanga, ii-crossovers ze-anachronistic ezenza le ngqokelela yazing ngokwenene. Kuthekani ngokujonga umAfrika omalunga netartan kuloo mitya ibhityileyo ibotshelelwe? Okanye ukuba iinkcukacha eziluncedo zepunk ezidityanisiweyo, kuJones, kwinkalo esebenzayo yembali yeVuitton, iikliphu kunye nokuqiniswa kweziqu zemveli. Ibhombu epinki-tan kugqabhuko-dubulo olufana nolugqabhuko lwezikhumba zeenciniba lukhumbuza intetho yakudala ethi: I-Punk ifana neendawo ezicudisayo. Ngaphandle, ukuba ezi Vuitton zazicudiswa, kuya kuba spa e Champneys. Emva koko kukho ii-trunks eziye zabizwa ngokuba yi "Plastic Peculiars" kunye nengcamango yokuba, ngokunyanisekileyo, i-canvas edibeneyo ye-Vuitton yinto ezukileyo (kwaye ibiza kakhulu) uhlobo lweplastiki. UJones wayenezinto zokwenyani kulo mboniso, kwakhona, imisele yerabha ye-pervy efakwe kwi-LV monogram kwaye iprintwe kunye ne-menagerie yezilwanyana eziguquliweyo ezibhalwe ngabahlobo bomyili kunye nabalingane bexesha elidlulileyo uJake noDinos Chapman.
Ukufika ekhaya kuthetha ntoni? Ukuqhelana. Ngelixa ungafuni ukuyibiza le ngqokelela yeehithi ezinkulu, iye yenza i-riff kunye nereferensi kwiimbono uJones aziphonononga ngalo lonke ixesha lokuhlala kwakhe endlwini. Loo mizobo kaChapman yayiyenye; umAfrika ujonga enye, eyasungulwa ekuqaleni kwayo iminyaka emihlanu ukuya kwisizini, yaphinda yasebenza namhlanje kodwa isabonakala. Xa i-zombie zoo ye-Chapman yayihamba ngokukhululekileyo, yayingaphaya kwe-Vuitton monogram ephefumlelwe yiplani yokuqala yoyilo, eyenziwe ngo-1896-ingcambu ye-monogram, njengoko uJones wahlola iingcambu zakhe.
Ngokwenyani, olo yayiluhambo uJones agqibe ekubeni asithathe ngeli xesha-ezantsi kwendlela yenkumbulo, eyakhe kunye nekaLouis Vuitton. Iimilo zebhegi zaphakanyiswa ngononophelo kwiindawo zoovimba-i-Steamer yaba ngubhaka; isimbo se-'70s-duffel ebizwa ngokuba yiRandonnee ifumene umtya omtsha; Iziqu zeValise zaphuma nge-springbok okanye iqwarhashe lombane-blue. Into yokubuyela ekhaya ibangele umboniso ozivayo, mhlawumbi, ushushu ngaphezu kokuphuma kweleyibhile yakutshanje; ngokuqinisekileyo ngakumbi umntu, into engenakuphepheka inikwe uxhulumaniso lukaJones kwizifundo ezikhoyo. Oko kwanika impembelelo eyongezelelweyo, kwiveneer ekhazimlayo yobuso obunomtsalane. Inike ubunzulu, nto leyo ekhohlisayo ngakumbi xa kusingathwa imiba yombiwe ngokucokisekileyo ngaphambili.
Ireferensi kaJones namhlanje ayizange iphakame kakhulu njengoko iphinda iguqule ipunk. Yabonisa ukuba imvukelo yayinokuthetha ntoni, kwindlu yezinto zodidi lwenkulungwane yama-21. Amashiya aya kuphakanyiswa-kodwa imvukelo ayingombono we-brothel-creepered, iimpahla ezikhuselekileyo ezikhuselekileyo ze-punk ezicetywayo njenge-Vuitton menswear, kodwa umyili unike inkululeko yokubonisa. Kumhlaba okhulayo weempahla zodidi, yiyo loo nto lo mboniso ugqamile.