Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 London

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USamuel Taylor Coleridge's 1798 "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" yafika engqondweni njengoko sasibona umboniso kaSarah Burton e-Arches eSouthwark namhlanje. I-Nautical motifs, izidalwa zasentsomini, kunye nokuthunga kuka-Edwardian bathetha ngohambo olubalaseleyo kulwandle oluvulekileyo. Imvakalelo esondeleyo yengozi ebidla ngokutyhutyha uninzi lwemiboniso kaLee McQueen yayikhona kwindawo ebomvu krwe njengoko isebe elibi liphuma ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwisandi esisemva. Ngomboniso weSavage Beauty usaqhuba kwiMyuziyam yaseVictoria & Albert, kunzima ukuphatha umboniso wanamhlanje ngexabiso lobuso ngaphandle kokubopha zonke iirotimanism ezifihlakeleyo ezimnyama kunye neengcinga zokungavisisani kwangaphakathi kwinkumbulo kaLee. Ukuba umkhondo ubukwisimemo, bekukho umfanekiso wendoda yembethi-manqindi yeVictorian enamazwi kaBright Eyes obhalwe kumkhono wayo: “Xa yonke into isithukuthezi, ndinokuba ngowam umhlobo osenyongweni.” Umxholo wokuba wedwa ngowokwabelwana ngawo kwiindlela zobuqu zikaMcQueen, uColeridge, noMariner – kwaye kwenzeka ukuba yeyona nto imnandi kwingqokelela.

Ukomelela kwayo, njengoko kwakunjalo kwisizini edlulileyo, bekukwindlela echanekileyo yokusikwa. Imbonakalo emhlophe yokuvula imbonakalo ehonjisiweyo yeVictorian kwisifuba ifana nombhiyozo kaSarah Burton wobunene obudlulileyo ekwindla/ebusika. Kuyavunywa ukuba, oomatiloshe namhlanje babekhangeleka bedakumbile ngakumbi, kodwa oko kwavula indlela yezinye iindlela. Iigraphics ezihonjisiweyo zeKhadinali kunye neeankile ezihonjisiweyo zokulala ezilungelelaniswe neekhola zemibhobho yolwandle; eyelets zentsimbi zigqobhozelwe iipeacoat ezinkulu; kunye nemigca ye-nautical itsaliwe, i-spliced, kunye ne-diced kwiisuti zesidlo sangokuhlwa. Bekukho imeko yangoku kwindlela yokuthunga esingazange siyibone ixesha elide: i-hemlines yanqunyulwa, izinqe zichongiwe, kunye neenkcukacha (njengeepokotho) ngaphezulu kwe-kilter. Umboniso u-crescendo-ed kwiensembles ezintathu zokugqibela kunye nonikezelo olugcweleyo lwezilo zaselwandle ezithandekayo ezivela kwiimephu ze-Medieval ze-16th kunye ne-17th yenkulungwane ezazinokuthi zenzeke ngokulula kwiintsomi zikaColeridge. Ingubo ye-regency evale umboniso ifake iziphumlisi kwingqokelela ngexesha elifanelekileyo; isantya besisemagqabini.

Njengoko iqhubeka, uBurton uya kuhlala enelifa lika-Lee McQueen elisondela phezu kwendlu. Kodwa ubuchwephesha bakhe bokutsala intliziyo yabona balandeli bakaLee banenzondelelo, ngokudityaniswa kobuchule bokukhumbula idrama kunye nedrama, ifanele ukunconywa. Umboniso wanamhlanje wawuyimbonakaliso yesakhono sikaBurton sokukhupha iimpahla ezichukumisayo ekungathandabuzekiyo ukuba yayiyeyona nto iphambili yokuthintela umsebenzi kaLee-olunye ufezekiso olugudileyo oluhambelana nokuma kwendlu.

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