Ukubonisa uVirgil Abloh kaLouis Vuitton kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseParis. UVirgil Abloh unike imbeko kuMichael Jackson, kunye neseti ephinda iphinda ividiyo yemvumi ka "Billie Jean".
Umkhondo wawukwisimemo-iglavu emhlophe enye, ehonjiswe ngerhinestone-nangona abalandeli abasondeleyo bakaVirgil Abloh babesele besazi ukuba umboniso wakhe wamadoda ekwindla kaLouis Vuitton wawungoMichael Jackson, umbandela womboniso wangoku kwiGrand Palais eParis. .
Umphathi wempahla yasesitalatweni, oneleyibhile ye-Off-White ethanjiswe njengeyona ishushu kakhulu emhlabeni ngoku, waye waphakamisa isiciko ngomxholo kwincoko nemagazini yodliwanondlebe ngoDisemba, ephakamisa isiko ekudala ligcina imfihlo phakathi kwezindlu zodidi oluphezulu. -ukuya kwimiboniso yendlela yeenqwelomoya.
Iindwendwe zangena kwintente emnyama kwigadi yaseTuileries, apho uphawu luphinde lwenze ikona yesitrato saseManhattan ebusuku, okusikhumbuza ngeseti yevidiyo kaJackson "Billie Jean" - egcwele ngamatye okukhanya. Iindwendwe, kuquka iimvumi zomculo we-rapper u-Offset, uGunna, uKid Cudi kunye noSkepta, babambene esitubhini.
Iseti ye-asphalt ichaze i-palette yombala wengqokelela, eyayilulwandle olungwevu kunye ne-tan, kunye ne-pop engaqhelekanga yomfusa kunye nobomvu-mhlawumbi umbala onxulumene kakhulu noKumkani wePop.
Phakathi kweziphakamiso ezintsha zokuthunga zika-Abloh kwakukho iibhatyi ezimbini - ibhatyi emfutshane enebhanti e-elasticated enxibe phezu kwe-underlayer ende engenamikhono - kunye nejacket yeZoot Suit enamaqhosha afihliweyo. Ukuthanda kukaJackson iimpahla zasemkhosini kwafakwa kwimibhinqo ekhutshiweyo kunye neziqwenga ezimile okwekresti kwihoodie ekhukhumeleyo yenkamela kunye nedyasi.
Impahla yangaphandle, kwelinye icala, yayiyi-hip-hop esulungekileyo. Iinketho zazibandakanya idyasi yelahle engwevu yokucheba enemonogram echetyiweyo; i-trenchcoat ephindwe kabini kwi-powdery crocodile-embossed nubuck leather, kunye ne-vest emnyama egcwele i-Monogram-padded lambskin puffer vest kunye nebhegi enkulu ye-Keepall ehambelanayo.
Kwakukho ikhonkco elibonakalayo kumboniso wokuqala ka-Abloh we-Vuitton ngoJuni ophelileyo, ngoshicilelo olungenangqondo olunabalinganiswa "kwi-Wiz" - i-remake ye-1978 ye-"Wizard ye-Oz" ehamba noJackson njenge-Scarecrow. I-trio ye-sequin-encrusted toptops yaxhamla kwiingubo zeqonga zomculi ezigqithiseleyo, ngelixa i-T-shirt eprintwe ngomfanekiso weenyawo zakhe ezifakwe kwi-loafer-clad kunye neesokisi ezimhlophe zanikela imbeko kwi-genius yakhe yomdaniso.
Enyanisweni, iiloafers zazizihlangu ezikhethiweyo kulo mboniso, zigqithise iiteki ezidume ngazo uAblo. Beza ngethwathwa kunye iinguqulelo zeflaneli ezingwevu, ihonjiswe ngekhonkco ikhonkco usungula njengomsayino entsha Vuitton. "Kum, banokuba yi-chic kwaye babe ntsha, njengesibini esimhlophe sikaStan Smiths," utshilo u-Abloh ngexesha lokujonga.
Ngaphaya komfanekiso wesitayile, wayenomdla kwinkalo yobuntu yomsebenzi kaJackson, ngakumbi “umyalezo wendalo iphela, ukuqukana kunye nothando” odluliswa ngeeprojekthi ezinje nge “We Are the World” charity single. Ngaloo moya, iimpahla zesikhumba zeza kwi-patchwork yeeflegi ezimele izizwe zeqela lakhe le-studio.
Ipateni yeflegi yase-U.S. yasetyenzwa kwi-tonal motifs kwiziketi ezigqunywe lilanga ezigqunywe lilanga, icebisa ukuba ubandakanyo lunganabela njani kwiinkcazo zesini.
Ewe, u-Abloh uye wavuthela indawo yobumnandi kubaphulaphuli abohlukeneyo njengaye nawuphi na umyili ngaphambi kwakhe. Ngokunqwala kwiingcambu zakhe zesinxibo sasesitalatweni, wayenomzobi wegraffiti u-Futura wapeyinta iseti ngexesha lomboniso, ekwabonisa iirapper ezinje ngo-Octavian kunye noSheck Wes kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya, kunye nengoma edlalwa nguDev Hynes.
"Copier c'est voler" ("Ukukopa bubusela") funda ithegi eludongeni olunye - umyalezo ngokungathandabuzekiyo obhekiswe kwabo batyhola uAbloh ngokukopa nje izimvo zabanye abayili. Enye yayifihlwe kumanqaku omboniso phantsi kwesihloko esithi “Irony,” awayichaza ngolu hlobo: “Ubukho bukaVirgil Abloh eLouis Vuitton.”
U-Abloh uyazi kakuhle ukuba abalandeli bakhe abancinci abanakukwazi ukuthenga iimpahla aziyilayo i-Vuitton. Oko akunikayo, kunoko, ngumzekelo wokulandela.
“Kubalulekile ukuba ube nobuchule. I-Instagram isimahla. Ndikhetha ukuba ukusebenza kwam endlwini kuvule iglobhu yesibane. Ayikokuba nayo into. Kum, andikwazanga ukuyihlawula - bendinqwenela. Yiloo nto eyandenza ndaphelelwa ngumsebenzi. Yiyo loo nto ndingalali - kuba ndifuna izinto kwaye ndiyazisebenzela, ”utshilo.
Ukuba ukuqeshwa kuka-Abloh kuphakamise amashiya ekuqaleni, kujongeka ngakumbi njenge-LVMH Moët Hennessy ULouis Vuitton wenze ukhetho olufanelekileyo: Umboniso wakhe wesibini wawuyinto eyonwabisayo.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 Paris