Bukela umboniso weThom Browne Men's Fall 2019 uhlala eBeaux-Arts de Paris.
Umthungi oyincutshe kulo mboniso unomtsalane unikezele ngothotho lweegawuni ezinobugocigoci ezenziwe kwiindawo zesuti.
Egameni lozinzo, uThom Browne ubone kwangaphambili iseti emnandi, esongela indawo-ebekwe ngaphakathi kwe-École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts - kwisisongelo seqamza, indawo yokuhlala ibandakanyiwe. Singasathethi ke ngomngcelele wamanani afana noFaro owavula umboniso.
UBrown, owathi noSaran-wavale ubuso beemodeli, wayenomdla wokungangeni nzulu ngayo. “Bekusenzelwa nje ukuzonwabisa,” utshilo. "Sisebenzisa isigqubuthelo seqamza ukuhambisa ingqokelela umva naphambili, ke ngokusisiseko sithatha into esiyisebenzisayo ngezizathu zolungiselelo kwaye siyenze iseti."
Inkosi yethiyetha - ngeli xesha ikhupha amandla akhe okuthutha abaphulaphuli kwihlabathi elifanayo - umthungi oyinkosi, onoshishino olukhulayo lwezorhwebo kunye nomnini omtsha, i-Ermenegildo Zegna Group, naye uthanda ukuphatha umgaqo weenqwelo-moya njengendlela yokuzilolonga. isimbo. Apha wathatha uthando lwakhe lwesuti esemthethweni yohlobo lwamashumi amahlanu kwaye wayiqhuma kwiilokhwe kunye nefantasia edibanisayo.
Idlalwe kumacandelo amathathu, ivula nge-feminized spins, i-corseted spins kwisuti yakudala, kusetyenziswa amalaphu emveli "obufazi" anjengee-tweeds zokuzingela zesiNgesi, uboya be-Shetland, i-tweeds yaseHarris kunye nokuphuhliswa kweekheshmere zasemkhosini.
Inkangeleko ibandakanya iidyasi zesitayile zikaMary Poppins ezibandakanya izinto zabasetyhini njengeekhafu zoboya kwimikhono, kunye neekhati ezidityanisiweyo zentambo eziguqulwe zaba sisiketi sangaphambili seqhosha elide elithe tye, kunye nomyili ojikelezayo wokulinganisa, ukucutha umzimba webhatyi yebhombu eqhelekileyo, yithi, ukwenza unomeva. -isiphumo esinqeni
Okulandelayo kwavela iinguqulelo ze-trompe l'oeil zamehlo eesuti, iihempe kunye namaqhina. Kwaye ke, kanye xa ucinga ukuba uyibonile yonke, wayithatha waya nayo komnye umlinganiso kunye nothotho lweegawuni ezinobugocigoci ezenziwe kwiindawo zesuti ezidityanisiweyo kwaye zajijwa emzimbeni, zihamba phakathi kwe-trompe l'oeils yokwenyani kunye neempahla zokwenyani ezithungelweyo. kunye. “Iphantse yangathi ilungile, ingcono, ingcono,” uqukumbele ngelithi uBrowne ngendaleko yofakelo lwakhe lobugcisa bokuhamba.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2019 Paris
“Kunika umdla ukubona indlela amadoda anxiba ngayo ngoku kwaye ndicinga ukuba eyona ndlela yokwenyani, indlela yokunxiba yabasetyhini inomdla kakhulu kubafana kule mihla,” uqhube watsho, esongeza ukuba uyawuthanda umbono “wokuthatha iziqwenga zamadoda aqhelekileyo kwaye azirhole emzimbeni. ukubenza babe ngabasetyhini kakhulu,” njengelokhwe yangokuhlwa. “Ukuqinisekisa ukuba usebenzisa yonke inkangeleko oyibonileyo ngaphambili,” ugxininise uBrowne. "Izinzile kakhulu, inolwazi kakhulu."
Isiphelo sebhatyi esonga-ibhatyi engaphezulu enxibe imodeli etyhila umqolo woonodoli abanxibe ifani yempahla ebigqiba kubonwa kumgaqo weenqwelomoya. Yagxininisa inqanaba le-couture yengqokelela.
Buhle: #isamayafrench
Iinwele: #eugenesouleiman