ULanvin Homme Ulungele Ukunxiba Ekwindla / Ubusika ngo-2019 eParis "Kubalulekile ukuba uLanvin abuyele kumyalezo okhokelayo," utshilo umyili wendlu entsha uBruno Sialelli, oqale ngoLwesithathu.
Yiminyaka entsha eLanvin - ubuncinci iFosun Fashion Group iyathemba ukuba yiyo. NgoLwesithathu, uBruno Sialelli, owayesakuba yintloko yeengubo zamadoda eLoewe, thaca ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala yendlu ethe saa, ebesokola ukuvelisa ubushushu okoko u-Alber Elbaz wagxothwayo ngo-Okthobha ka-2015.
Ukubonisa kwiMusée Cluny, uSialelli wanikezela ngesiseko esiluqilima, esikhomba indlela, eboleka kancinci kwincwadi yokudlala yeLoewe yokuthunga izinto ezithambileyo, iileya ezinqabileyo kunye nokuchukumisa ubuchwephesha ngendlela eqhelekileyo, eqhutywa yimini yobumnandi kunabalandeli bophawu oluphantsi kwe-Elbaz. ukuqhela.
“Siyazi ukuba iLanvin yindlu yangokuhlwa apho ufumana iflou entle kunye nemibala,” utshilo uSialelli ngexesha lokujonga. “Kodwa uJeanne [uLanvin] naye wayengomnye wabokuqala ukwenza isindululo esibanzi sokunxiba kwabasetyhini, ukunxiba kwamadoda kunye neempahla zemidlalo, iikhethini kunye nefenitshala….Ubeyinto ebenokuthi namhlanje yindlela yokuphila [umyili],” wongeze watsho, ekhankanya amabhongo akhe indima yakhe entsha, nto leyo kuye ukuyila zombini amadoda nabafazi, kunye nokusungula izincedisi, ukuqala Hook ibhegi eemele ethambileyo wehla umgaqo weenqwelo-moya.
USailelli uphawule inani elikhulu leempembelelo zokuqokelela, ukusuka koomatiloshe abanomdla kwifilimu kaWerner Fassbinder "Querelle," ukuya kubudlelwane bukaJeanne Lanvin kubugcisa bamaxesha aphakathi kunye nohambo olungaqhelekanga, kwimbali yaseMzantsi Melika, yonke loo nto yongeza kwi-eclecticism yomhlaba, ukuqala ngo ibhatyi eblue kamatiloshe eneqhina elimdaka ngesikhumba, enxitywe phezu kwecaftan emnyama-namhlophe eprintiweyo egximfizwe umzobo womama nomntwana wendlu enevumba elimnandi leArpege. I-Lanvin eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka yajika amaxesha amaninzi, kwi-peacoat eyenziwe kakuhle enekhola engqukuva kunye ne-lapels, phezu kwengubo ye-godet ebomvu ebomvu. Iitshawuli ezijongeka njenge-plaid ezijongeka njengeeklasiki ezigqame ngeeblazi ezithambileyo okanye zisikwe zibe mini, ngelixa ilokhwe ehonjiswe ngeallover yeempungutye ezincinci zongeza i-whimsy yasemaphandleni.
Imizobo yesikhafu yesilika ekrwelwe ngeendinyana kunye nemifanekiso yamaxesha aphakathi yee-knights kunye needragons zenziwa iibhlukhwe, iibhulukhwe kunye neebhulukhwe ezitsala umtya ezifakwe ngaphantsi kwejini, imiqukumbelo eshiywe ukuba iphaphaze emaqatheni ukuze ibonakale ipholile. Kwaye iilokhwe zoshicilelo ezithambekileyo zazihonjiswe ngemizobo yeentombi ezilungileyo.
Ukongeza inqaku elimnandi, umyili usebenzise umzobo kaBabar kwisilika kunye ne-twinset edibeneyo. "Ndandihamba kwi-Seine, apho bathengisa khona ama-cutouts eencwadi zakudala ze-Babar, kwaye njengayo yonke inkwenkwe yaseFransi ndakhula noBabar," kusho uSialelli. Iijezi ezidityanisiweyo eziphefumlelweyo zaseMzantsi Melika, izifudumezi zengalo kunye nokunye kwakubonakala ngathi kukugqithisa kwe-eclecticism, nangona kunjalo.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2019 Paris
Yonke iminyaka engama-31 ubudala, umceli mngeni womyili uya kuba kukutsala umthengi omtsha eLanvin emva kokuqalwa kobuxoki kabini okungenzanga nto ukunceda ixabiso legama lentengiso kwimarike yobunewunewu. Inxalenye yento aya kuye bulutsha - kunye nokuqonda okukhuthazayo kwinto umthengi ayifunayo namhlanje.
“Kubalulekile ukuba uLanvin abuyele kumyalezo okhomba indlela,” utshilo, ephawula ukuba inxalenye yombono wakhe kukusondeza ingqokelela yamadoda nabasetyhini, kubandakanya nokwabelana ngeefestile zevenkile.
“Le yindlela esithenga ngayo namhlanje; abafazi baya kwisebe lamadoda ukuze bafumane ihempe, amadoda aya kwabasetyhini ngejezi elihle elipinki. Ndithenga iijumpi zeCeline. Abafuni nokuva ukuba ngamadoda okanye abafazi. Abakhathali ngokwenene. Akukho malunga nokuguquguquka kwesini, yinyani nje. Yindlela abantu abathenga ngayo ngoku. ”