Izambatho azinabuni ngokwenyani ngokuwohloka kukaJohn Galliano weMaison Margiela elungele ukuNxitywa ekwindla/ebusika ngo-2019 eParis.
"I-Swan Lake" idumbile kwizithethi kumboniso wangoLwesithathu njengoko imodeli edibeneyo ibonise ubutyebi bezinto ezintsha zokuthunga ezidityaniswe ngoshicilelo kunye nokuthungwa.
UJohn Galliano ufumene impazamo ekuxoxeni ngengqokelela yakhe yokuwa kweMaison Margiela. Kweyona nxalenye yamva nje ye "Memory of.. ." podcast apho ahamba ngeenkuthazo kunye neenkqubo ezingena kwingqokelela nganye, uvala ngesandi esithandekayo se-line-liner. “Ayisiyiyo imveliso yokugqibela. Luhambo.”
Ewe, uhambo lokuphonononga, ukufunyanwa kunye nokuqonda kubalulekile, ngakumbi kuyilo lwenyani olufana noGalliano. Kodwa le yifashoni, kwaye imveliso yokugqibela yimpahla. Indlela ezikhangeleka ngayo kumgca wokugqibela ibaluleke kakhulu, ubuncinci kwabo banomdla kurhwebo. I-Galliano yayigqwesile - inamandla kwaye yenziwe kakuhle kwi-minimalism eyinkimbinkimbi awayikhupha kwi-head-spinning sensory overload eyayiphawula ukugqithiswa kwakhe kwi-decadence kwingqokelela yakhe ye-Artisanal kaJanuwari.
Kunokuba ancume ngobuninzi obubi kangangezihlandlo ezininzi zonyaka, njengoko bekunjalo kwimo yakhe. ngeemotifs ezidlulileyo, uGalliano wayikhawulezisa inkqubo ukuya kwisisombululo. Kwi-podcast, uthetha ngendlela engenakuphepheka yokuwohloka, ukusuka kwi-overstimulation ukuya ekuboleni ekufuneni ukunyaniseka kweMillennials efuna. Ngokuwohloka, izinto eziphathekayo zinokuncitshiswa zibe ngundoqo, kwaye leyo yayiyindlela yakhe apha. Uyifumene loo nto?
Ayisiyiyo yonke loo nto. Ingoma yayisithi "Swan Lake." Wenza njalo uGalliano kwipodcast yakhe, nangona ugcine into okanye ezimbini, awunakuba nofifi ngaphandle kwamanqaku akhe omlomo weCliff. (Olona xhulumaniso lucacileyo: idyasi emhlophe engumqamelo, ephefumlelwe yi-handbag yesignesha ye-brand kunye ne-swim cap-like affair, egqitywe yindoda njengenxalenye ye-Galliano ye-gender-neutral crusade).
Ingqokelela yayimalunga nantoni na: iimpahla ezintle, ezinomdla ophezulu, ezithe, ezikhutshwe kwi-cacophony ye-couture's excess, ngokuzidla zabonisa izakhiwo zazo ezinobuchule.
Ngokufuthi oku kwakuquka ukuthungwa komthungi, okwakusebenza njengento yokuhombisa kunye nesikhumbuzo sobuchule obuphezulu obubandakanyekileyo ekudaleni ezi mpahla. Uluhlu oluninzi lwalumnyama, lunomdla, kunye nefuthe le-Yohji kwii-silhouettes ezomeleleyo ezenziwe kwii-tweeds zokugqoka zamadoda, iiflaneli kunye ne-herringbones.
Ugqaliselo lwalukwisilhouette, kunye nendlela eyakhiwe ngokutsha-uGalliano anokuguqula idyasi yeflaneli ibe yilokhwe okanye ibhulukhwe yokukhwela ibe yibustier kunye nesiketi.
Kodwa kwakhona malunga namathuba okuguqula izinto ezithile zokwakha: indlela igxalaba elithambekileyo lengubo emnyama yeCrombie yenza idome edibeneyo; okanye indlela i-sleeve kwilaphu elichaseneyo kunye nomlinganiselo ogqithisiweyo, ixesha elide kwaye ligcwele kunokuba lilindelwe, iingubo eziguqulwayo kunye neebhatyi ukusuka kwi-classic ukuya kwifashoni; okanye indlela ilaphu lasekhohlo-ibala wathatha eqhelekileyo trope kwindawo entsha. Ibhatyi yepuffer emnyama engaqhelekanga? Uyabheja, kwi-chiffon ephothiweyo ngaphezulu kwengubo emhlophe, enxibe idyasi emnyama yeMackintosh.
Ukanti le ngqokelela yayingeyoyaseti epholileyo kuphela. Ezinye zijongeka zisebenza umahluko omkhulu, i-motif eyaziswa ngobulumko kubuhle belokhwe, i-neoprene emnyama ngaphambili kunye neleyisi ehonjisiweyo engwevu ngasemva. Inqaku: isiko lokudodobalisa, kwaye uGalliano wangena ngokuncamathisela iiphaneli eziprintiweyo ezinamandla ezineflamingo epinki eshushu (hamba ngapha, wena haute poodles blue) phambi ilokhwe herringbone kunye needyasi ngasemva kunye neebhatyi. Kwaye yintoni isiko ngakumbi kunedyasi ye-tweed ye-Harris yamadoda? Kuphela uGalliano wayinqunqa kwibhatyi emfutshane, yebhokisi, ipaneli yayo yangasemva ehonjiswe yiflamingo ehambelana nebhulukhwe yejacquard eqinile eluswini kunye neebhutsi zesikhumba, kwaye inxitywe yindoda ekwindalo yonke yaseGalliano engenasini.
Umoya uwonke wawuzolile ngamandla, kodwa ngaphakathi koko, uGalliano wayeqhula, ngamanye amaxesha ethatha iimpahla kunye nabaphulaphuli bakhe baye kumsindo. Ngokuqinisekileyo umntu unokuthenga kukhangelo lwakhe ukuze afumane ubunyani bokonakala; akakho umntu oyingcaphephe kunaye kwiingcinga ezinzulu zefashoni. Okanye umntu unokuziva nje uyolo lokufumana idyasi egqibeleleyo ukuze athenge ikwindla elandelayo kwaye abe naphakade. Ngayiphi na indlela, uhambo lukaGalliano kunye nemveliso yokugqibela ngokuqinisekileyo lufanelekile uhambo.