UVirgil Abloh wenze umdlalo ophonononga imixholo yobuntu bobuhlanga kunye nokwabiwa kwenkcubeko.
Ngubani ofumana ibango lobunikazi beqhekeza lempahla? Ngumbuzo awathi uVirgil Abloh wasala ecamngca emva kwengqokelela yakhe yokugqibela kaLouis Vuitton, emva kwezityholo ezenziwe ngumyili waseBelgium uWalter Van Beirendonck ukuba wazikrazula ezinye zeendlela zakhe zoyilo - amabango athi uAbloh wakhanyela ngamandla.
Kwafika u-Abloh ecinga malunga nokufaneleka kwenkcubeko, kunye nombono wakhe woyilo njengomntwana osemtsha oMnyama e-US "Ndakhula ndivakalelwa kukuba uyilo lwalungekho kum, kuba andizange ndibone nabani na onjengam ekuyilweni," watsho.
Kunoko, ulwimi luka-Abloh “yayiyinto eqhelekileyo: izinto ezifumaneka lula, ezingayilwanga. Impahla ebikwivenkile yam yezaphulelo, ezo azange ziyilwe, kunye nempahla kwisitrato sobunewunewu, ezo ziyilelwe. Ke leyo yimfundo yam yefashoni. ”
Izixhobo zeWardrobe - i-suit suit, ijacket ye-denim, i-duster coat okanye i-jeans-yakha isiseko sokuwa kwakhe kwi-Vuitton. Kodwa i-archetypes inokuthatha i-slant yezopolitiko xa ijongwa nge-prism yobuhlanga. Kwihlabathi elinemibala enemibala, umfundi ukhangeleka njani, okanye umthengisi, umnini wegalari, umyili wezakhiwo?
Lo mbuzo wawuxhasa inkcazo-ntetho yakhe entywilayo, eyayidibanisa imibongo ye-slam, i-choreography, ikonsathi, ukufakwa kobugcisa - kunye nokutyibiliza emkhenkceni. Iphuhliswe ngomdlali uJosh Johnson, lo mbono waphefumlelwa ngu "Stranger in the Village," isincoko sika-1953 ngunoveli uJames Baldwin.
Ekuqaleni yayiyilwe ukuba yenziwe bukhoma, umboniso wafotwa ngaphandle kweendwendwe ngenxa yezithintelo eziqhubekayo eziyilelwe ukunqanda ukusasazeka kwe-COVID-19.
Ukuma njengoko umlingiswa we-Baldwin wayeyinkwenkwezi ethi "Slam" uSawule Williams, owazisa ukusebenza kwamagnetic. Umboniso wokuvula wambonisa enxibe idyasi emnyama ezula-zula kwindawo enekhephu yeentaba, ngaphambi kokuba atshintshele kwibhastile langoku elibekwe ngaphakathi kweTennis Club de Paris.
Amadoda anxibe iisuti ezimbejembeje adlula njengoko indoda yayilele phantsi ingekho zingqondweni, inxibe njengawo. Kwingoma yesandi, imbongi yaseBritane uKai-Isaiah Jamal wathi: “Njengabantu abaNtsundu, njengabantu abadlulayo, nanjengabantu abahlelelekileyo, ihlabathi lilapha ukuze silithathe, kuba lithatha okuninzi kuthi.” Umboniso uvalwe ngokudlala okumnandi kwerapper uMos Def.
Impahla ifundeka njengeenguqulelo ezandisiweyo zeesilhouette eziqhelekileyo: isuti engwevu yatshintshwa ngokuprintwa kwebhastile le-trompe-l'oeil, ngelixa iidyasi zazenziwe zoluswa ngokumangalisayo ukuba zilandele emgangathweni. “Bendifuna ukwenza iimpahla ezizizo, kodwa zibe luhlobo oluthile lokuzikhulisa, ukuze zibe ngamagcisa, okanye indlela yokubaleka, okanye yokuhlela,” utshilo uAbloh.
Umyili uye wathetha ngokufuthi ngomgaqo wakhe “wesi-3 ekhulwini”: ukuguqula uyilo olukhoyo ngesi-3 ekhulwini nje kuphela ukuze lube yinto entsha. Yindlela ethe yambhenca kwizityholo zokukopa, akholelwa ukuba zinelizwi eliphantsi lama impiriyali, kuba abayili abamhlophe bahlala beboleka kwezinye iinkcubeko.
Ukuguqula iitafile kubagxeki bakhe, u-Abloh wagqiba ekubeni abonise i-Black design motifs enokuthi ingabonakali kwinkcubeko yaseNtshona. Amalaphu atshekisiweyo, asetyenziswa kwiimpahla zangaphandle okanye iziketi ezicekethekileyo ezifana nekilt, zenze ibhulorho phakathi kwetartan yaseScottish kunye nelaphu lekente elinxitywa nguyise waseGhana ngezihlandlo ezikhethekileyo.
Amalaphu anepateni, abandakanya utyikityo lwentyatyambo kaVuitton yemonogram motif ecaleni kwephiramidi kunye neemephu zehlabathi, zazisekwe kumalaphu ewax adlamkileyo awayethandwa ngumama wakhe.
"Ukuba ngomnye wabayili abambalwa bemibala ebonisa kwishedyuli yaseParis, ngandlela-thile, ndingumfanekiso wentshukumo yeyantlukwano," utshilo u-Abloh. "Ngokunyanisekileyo andifuni ukuba ezo zinto zibe ngumzuzwana nje."
Ukugxininisa ingongoma yakhe, umyili, owenze amagama acatshulweyo utyikitya ileyibhile yakhe ye-Off-White, ucofe igcisa lengqikelelo uLawrence Weiner ukwenza ii-aphorisms ezintsonkothileyo ezinje ngo “Ndaweni ithile ngandlel’ ithile,” ebhalwe kwimitya yeengxowa kunye nezikhafu.
ULouis Vuitton ubonise iNgqokelela yeFall-Winter 2021 nguVirgil Abloh eParis ngoJanuwari, 21st.
Ifilimu kaVirgil Abloh kunye 'Eshukunyiswe sisishukumiso'
Ukufakela ibhegi yakhe yokubamba yeesilhouettes ezisesikweni kunye neziqhelekileyo yayizizakhiwo ze-trompe-l'oeil, ezinje ngephezulu eyenziwe nge-3D yokuveliswa kwakhona kwezikhumbuzo zaseParis njenge-Notre-Dame cathedral, kunye nothotho lweempahla kumthunzi wesikrini oluhlaza ofundeka njengophawu olubi. kubomi bethu bokuvalwa kwedijithali-kwaye kwaqinisekiswa ukuba siza kuphuma ku-Instagram.
Ngamanqaku engqokelela axinene kangako, aye afuna isidanga kwizifundo zenkcubeko, umboniso uqulathe imiceli mngeni abajongene nayo abaqulunqi namhlanje: indlela yokujongana nokutshintsha kwezinto ezithandwa ngabathengi, ukulungisa iyantlukwano, ukusetyenzwa kwakhona kwaye ngandlela ithile unqumle ingxolo?
“Kukho ixesha lokucinga elingazange libonwe ngaphambili,” waqubuda watsho uAbloh. "Ukwenza umboniso ngo-2021 kwahluke kakhulu kuno-2020 kunye no-2019, ngokuqinisekileyo. Kuthatha ukucinga okuninzi kum ukwenza into ngobunzima kunye nomxhuzulane, kodwa nangokuvala iifektri, okanye umnqweno wokuhlala kwishedyuli, kwaye wenze into yobugcisa. "
Ngaloo ndlela, umboniso wekwindla ka-2021 uphawule eyona projekthi yakhe inebhongo ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, kwaye waqinisa indima yeemveliso zefashoni njengabavelisi bomxholo wenkcubeko. Ngelixa bekuya kuba nzima ku-Abloh ukubanga ikhredithi yodwa ngomzamo, ngokunikwa inani labadibanisi bokudala ababandakanyekayo, yayiyingongoma kanye.
UMCULO: Inqaku leFilimu yokuqala kunye noMculo wokuBonisa
Isalathiso ngu-Asma Maroof Louis Vuitton
Umkhombandlela woMculo nguBenji B
Umculo weeNdwendwe zoMculo: yasiin bey kunye noSaul Williams
ISaxophone & neFlute: Tapiwa Svosve
ICello kunye nePiano: UPatrick Belaga
Amagubu: Mathieu Edward
Uhadi: Ahya Simone
Imveliso yoMculo eyongezelelweyo nguDaniel Pineda
Isihobe esongezelelweyo nguKai-Isaya Jamal
Bonisa iNgcinga kunye noYilo lweNkangeleko: PLAYLAB
I-arhente yokudala: Yiba yi-Studios eLungileyo
Iinwele: UGuido Palau
Make-up: Ammy Drammeh
Uyilo loMzobo: iTemp yeStudio
Isikhokelo soBugcisa kunye noPhando: Mahfuz Sultan & Chloe Sultan
Imveliso yoMboniso weFashoni: La Mode en Imifanekiso yeeNkonzo zeFashoni ngu-KCD
Kudlalwa nguSamuel Ellis Scheinman, uPiergiorgio Del Moro;
Uncediswa ngu-Arthur Mejean. 'Ukushukunyiswa sisindululo' Elawulwa nguNadja Rangel kuLawulo lwe-Outofocus.