Ingqokelela yayimnyama kwaye inendelelo-kwaye igcwele iidyasi ezifanelekileyo zenkanuko eRick Owens Menswear Fall 2021 Paris.
Iintlekele zonyaka ophelileyo - ezempilo, okusingqongileyo, ezentlalo kunye nezopolitiko - ziziva ziphantse zibe ngokwebhayibhile ngomlinganiselo kwaye zichaphazele abayili befashoni ngeendlela ezininzi.
U-Rick Owens uvumile ngoLwesine ukuba uziva enomsindo ocinezelekileyo, othe waphumela kwingqokelela yakhe yokuwa emnyama nenendelelo, wajikeleza phambi kweTempio Votivo, indawo yomkhosi weMfazwe yokuQala yeHlabathi kunye nebhakana eqinisekisayo ebonwa ngumyili ngalo lonke ixesha isikhephe singena sisuka. IVenice ukuya kwisiqithi saseLido, ikhaya lakhe lesibini.
“Yiveki yokusungulwa, kwaye bendicinga ngendlela le ngqokelela eyathi yaqulunqwa ngayo ngexesha lobumnyama kakhulu…nangona ilixesha elinethemba kakhulu, kwaye ndinethemba,” utshilo u-Owens ngeFaceTime kusasa ngoLwesine, kwiiyure ezimbalwa ezizayo. yomlambo wakhe. Washwankathela oku: “Zininzi izinto ezimnyama ezikrazukileyo. Buyela kuloo nto.”
Abaqulunqi abaninzi banikezela ngefashoni efana nokutya okuthuthuzelayo ngeli xesha lonyaka: iimpahla eziqhelekileyo, ezinamagumbi, ezithokomeleyo nezikhululekileyo.
Hayi uOwens. Apha kwancedwa inyama ekrwada kungekho nzame yokuyifihla ukuba iphuma esilwanyanani. Ukususela kwiinzwane zesikwere kunye nolwimi olude olongezelelweyo lweeteki zakhe eziphakamileyo eziphezulu - intsebenziswano kunye ne-Converse evezwe kwindlela ye-runway - ukuya kwiingubo zesikhumba eziqinileyo zesikhumba ezinokuthi zifake i-zip phezu kobuso, ezi fashoni zazinoburhalarhume, zi-virile kwaye zivuyisa.
Njengomboniso wakhe wabasetyhini ekwindla yokugqibela, ekwapase ngaphandle kude kufuphi nonxweme oludumileyo lwaseLido, iimodeli zonakaliswe ngumsi wedisco unxibe ijacket yebhombu enenyama, ijean ejijayo, ijezi ezijijekileyo ezinemingxuma kunye “nemaski yobhubhane.” UOwens ubalisa njengoko injalo.
“Ukuhlala phantsi kwaye ukhululeke kwaye uzigqume? Andiyivumi loo nto. Kodwa leyo ayisiyiyo indlela endikholelwa kuyo,” utshilo. "Ndiyakholelwa ekunyukeni, ukungena ngaphakathi, kubaluleke kakhulu."
UOwens waphumelela, kuba apha kwakukho iimpahla ezindilisekileyo njengokuba zazinjalo. Ithamsanqa lokufumana idyasi yokucheba epholileyo, isambatho esihonjiswe ngakumbi, okanye i-puffer enomtsalane - enye ikrazukile; abanye basike iimilo zokujingi ezibalaseleyo. Abanye bokugqibela bade beza bemfusa, bebonakalisa umbala womanyano ovele kwimisitho yangoLwesithathu eWashington.
Kwakukho ukuhleka okuhlekisayo kunye neenkcazo ezinobuqili kwiibhuthi zethanga zenkomo eziphakamileyo eziboniswe nge-tighty-whities, i-epitome ye-Underwear yase-Middle America. Akukho zi-Y-fronts apha, kodwa ibhabha ngokumila kwepentagram, uphawu lwe-Owens' Drkshdw brand kunye nobuhedeni. Lo mboniso uthi: “Amandla angamadoda angathintelekiyo, umzobo ombi wamaxesha ethu akhohlakeleyo, aphikisanayo.”
Owens wabiza ingqokelela “iGetsemane” emva komyezo waseYerusalem apho kuthiwa uYesu wathandaza waza wangcungcutheka ngobusuku bangaphambi kokubethelelwa. Ebuzwa ukuba uyakholelwa na, u-Owens wathi hayi, ngelixa ephakamisa ubulumko obuseBhayibhileni njengeplani yokuphila, kunye nenkcazo yemeko yomntu.
“Ndikholelwa kukuphila ubomi obubekekileyo nokwenza konke okusemandleni akho. Kwaye ndiyakholelwa kububele, ”utshilo. “Yinkolo yam leyo.”
Amen kuloo nto.