EMILAN, JANUWARI 19, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Ngokwesiqhelo, uGiorgio Armani uthatha isaphetha sakhe sendlela yokubaleka eMilan kwinqanawa yezemidlalo-ijezi okanye isikipa. I-hue yayiyi-linchpin yengqokelela yakhe ye-Fall 2016, njengoko ixhase umsebenzi wakhe kunye ne-wardrobe yendoda yase-Armani. Ngoba? Ngenxa yokuba i-navy iklasikhi, ayibonakali, kwaye inomtsalane jikelele, zonke iimpawu ezingapheliyo ze-Armani yobuhle.
Ixesha linentsingiselo encinci kuMsayino Armani. Njengoko ihlabathi laseNtshona lijikeleza kwikhalenda kaGregory, imozulu inyuka kwaye ihla, uArmani usebenza yedwa. Ungumyili onqabileyo onamandla okwenza oko; masiyibize ikhalenda yeGiorg-orian, ekubonakala ukuba ihamba ngesantya esincinci, ime ngaphandle kwefashoni. Lo mboniso waphinda waba yimbonakaliso yobunye obupheleleyo buka-Armani: Wadibanisa iimodeli zakhe zamadoda kunye nebhinqa, izibini ezihambelana ngokugqibeleleyo apho, mhlawumbi, ivelvet yajongana nemilenze yakhe kwaye yaphululwa kwilobe eshinyeneyo kwilokhwe ye-cocktail ngenxa yakhe. Inike imbonakalo yendalo yeArmani, leyo ihamba ngaxeshanye neyethu, kodwa yahluke ngokupheleleyo.
Kakade ke, iimpahla zazingekho kwiplanethi eyahlukileyo. Yayiziiklasikhi zeArmani, izimvo ezikhule ixesha elide kwaye zaguquka kancinci ngokuhamba kwexesha. Ke icashmere, vicuña, kunye nealpaca Armani ezibonisiwe namhlanje, ezibonakala zifana nezo zeminyaka engama-20 eyadlulayo, ziveze iiyantlukwano ezingenasiphelo, ezibonisa ngokuchuliweyo ukuhamba kwamaxesha onyaka abanye abayili ababambelela kuwo ngokungqongqo. Baye banqunyulwa banzi, bafutshane emzimbeni, bahlala be-double-breast, kwaye baxhomekeke kwiinkqubo zokuhlamba eziqhekeza umphezulu wempahla, ukuthambisa yonke into. Enye imbonakalo yexesha.
Ngaba uArmani unomdla kwixesha? Ngo-2015 wabhiyozela iminyaka engama-40 kwishishini, unyaka emva kokuzalwa kwakhe kweminyaka engama-80. Njengoko abanye abayili bexoxa ngokusetyenzwa kwakhona kwezitayile zembali ukwenza iimpahla zale mihla, u-Armani ufumanisa eyakhe imbali, ixesha emva kwexesha, ecoca iiklasiki zakhe, esenza ikamva kwelakhe ixesha elidlulileyo. U-Armani uthe le ngqokelela, ixutywe kunye ne-motifs ekhutshwe emantla e-Afrika kunye neMeditera, kwaye iphefumlelwe ngumfanekiso kaWilliam S. Burroughs kwi-suit eshwabeneyo kwindawo ethile eTangier, yayimalunga nohambo. Uhambo oluya eArmani—uhambo olucothayo, uloliwe ezinzulwini zobusuku (oluhlaza) ukuya eGiorgio.
Indaleko echubekileyo, ecothayo ebonakala kumboniso weArmani-ngamanye amaxesha inzima, kodwa apha inzima kakhulu-iphakamisa imibuzo ebanzi, emikhulu. Bangakanani abantu abafuna ngokwenene into ekrazulweyo kwaye yenziwe ngokutsha ngokupheleleyo unyaka nonyaka? Ngaliphi ixabiso elitsha? Ndiyakrokrela ukuba uGiorgio Armani ucinga nganye ingqokelela yakhe entsha ngokupheleleyo, ephuphileyo ukusuka ekuqaleni. Uyawubona umahluko kuzo zonke, nokuba thina asiwuboni.