“IVelvet kudala yaba lelinye lamalaphu endiwathandayo. Velvet ngosuku. Velvet ngokuhlwa. " -UTom Ford. Fumana iNgqokelela yaMadoda ekwindla ka-2021 eNew York.
Ukuba ayifikeleleki ngokupheleleyo, ngenxa yokuba i-Ford's metier inomnqweno oqinileyo, iimpahla zibonakala zihambelana nendlela ezibonisa ngayo isimo sengqondo njengesona sixhobo somntu, kwaye sifakwe kwiindlela zokuthuthuzela.
Ngeli xesha lonyaka wefashoni yedijithali, abayili baye bayila ifomathi, besenza iifilimu ezibalisayo ezimfutshane, befaka abantu abayimodeli, abalawuli abanegama elikhulu kunye nosaziwayo be-“Saturday Night Live” ukuza kwenza ingxolo ngeengqokelela zabo.
Kodwa hayi uTom Ford, apha eHollywood; waziyeka iimpahla zakhe ukuba zithethe, ekhupha iincwadi zenkangeleko zamadoda nabasetyhini ngaphandle komdlalo wakusasa ngeCawe, umhla ekwakufuneka uhlengahlengiswe ngenxa yokuba wayenoqhambuko lwentsholongwane kwigumbi lakhe lokusebenza.
"Emva konyaka ndihlala kwiifowuni zeZoom ndinganxibanga ngokupheleleyo okanye ndinxibe ijean enye emdaka kunye nehempe yetiyi, ndikulungele ukunxiba isuti… Ndicinga ukuba lixesha lokuba ndinxibe kwakhona."
UTom Ford
“Ifashoni, njengabo bonke ubomi bethu, ibikuhlobo loopopayi abanqunyanyisiweyo,” wabhala kwingqokelela yakhe amanqaku ezama ukufumanisa ukuba abantu banokufuna ukunxiba ntoni emva kokuchitha unyaka bebila.
Impendulo yakhe? "Eyona ndlela iqhelekileyo yokuba nempakamo" - wahlutywa kodwa ngokungathandabuzekiyo uTom ekukrobeni kwakhe ngesondo kwaye wanqwala kubomi obutofotofo.
Ukubukeka okuncinci kunye namaqhekeza amaninzi, le ngqokelela yaziva ichukumisa kwaye isondele. Mhlawumbi ukukhululwa kwinqanaba lomgaqo weenqwelo-moya kunokuba yinto entle. Kwaye ukuba ayifikeleleki ngokupheleleyo, ngenxa yokuba i-Ford's metier inomnqweno oqinileyo, iimpahla zibonakala zihambelana kwindlela ezibonisa ngayo isimo sengqondo njengesona sixhobo somntu, kwaye sifakwe kwiindlela zokuthuthuzela, nokuba yi-hoodie yoyilo, i-lingerie ekhethekileyo okanye i-lingerie ekhethekileyo. ipaki yamandla. "Ndiyathetha, ngubani ongafuniyo ukuba mbi - ngakumbi emva kokubanjwa ekhaya unyaka?" umyili wabhala.
Ngelixa uninzi lweshishini lefashoni laseMelika lingene ebhodini ngokubandakanywa kobukhulu, isicatshulwa sikaWallis Simpson esithi "Awunakuze ube sisityebi kakhulu okanye ubhitye kakhulu" yahamba engqondweni yam ingena ekujuleni ihipbones. Kodwa kwiseti ethile, amazwi kaSimpson asavakala eyinyani; Ndiye ndakhunjuzwa ngalo Lwesihlanu xa ndikwisidlo sasemini ePolo Lounge kwaza kwachwetheza umntakwethu onxibe ijean egolide edlula etafileni yam. Wayejongeka njenge-chic-njengesihogo kwinto eyayinokuba yiTom Ford, kodwa andicingi ukuba wayetyile ukusukela ngo-1967.
Ke bekukho iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zesikhumba ezityibilikayo kunye ne-microminis, i-jeans ifakwe i-bleached kwi-X-reyi kunye ne-crease egqibeleleyo emlenzeni kunye ne-fringe eqatheni, zombini ineenkcukacha ezincinci zegolide esinqeni. Zazikhangeleka zipholile, zidityaniswe nejezi ye-mohair ethobileyo ene-caramel hue etyebileyo, okanye ibhatyi ye-rose yegolide yedenim (efana nobucwebe bejean, leyo uFord wayenza emva phaya eGucci).
Umthamo ongaphezulu, i-twiggy kwi-silhouette esezantsi edlalwa kwipaki yevelvet emnyama egcwele phantsi egcwele phantsi phezu kwemilenze engenanto, kunye nedyasi ehonjisiweyo yomkhosi ngaphezulu kwengubo yangaphantsi ye-Tom Ford yelogo yecashmere, u-Edie Sedgwick-like. “Oku kujongeka kupholile ukuba ukhululekile ngomzimba wakho kwaye unelungelo phantsi kwamaqhekeza,” ubhale watsho uFord, esongeza incam yesitayile yokuba iibhulukhwe ezixineneyo kunye neebhulukhwe ezithambileyo zinokufikelela kwisiphumo esifanayo.
Umxholo we-lingerie uqhubeleka kwilayisi emnyama eyenziwe ngobunjineli, enemikhono evuthulukileyo kunye neblowuzi yentlanzi enesimo sokwenyani phezu kwejini, kunye nephupha letangerine lelokhwe yosana olunentamo ephezulu, imikhono egcweleyo, kunye neleyisi egobileyo edlala i-peekaboo kwibhust. kunye nesinqe. Ndingayiqikelela kwitheko elimnandi lesidlo sangokuhlwa saseBel Air - nkqu nesidlo sangokuhlwa sababini.
Wabongoza amadoda ukuba aphinde anxibe kwakhona, kodwa hayi iqhina elimnyama. Endaweni yoko, uFord ubhekisele kwisimo sengqondo sika-'60's dressy-casual (uSam Cooke wabuya engqondweni ebona iibhulukhwe ezinxibileyo kunye neeloafers, mhlawumbi ngenxa yokuba ndibone ezoyikeka "One Night eMiami") kunye nee'80s punk (uPaul Simonon weClash ngenkangeleko yakhe yemvukelo kunye neebhatyi zesikhumba ezimenyezelayo zazisebhodini yemood yomyili).
Akukho mntu wenza ibhatyi ye-velvet efana ne-Ford, kwaye ngeli xesha kwakukho amaqashiso kwaye ayelula - i-emerald eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka i-velvet ibhatyi ye-bomber slim-cut, enye (le milo yayilungile kwisikhumba esikhazimlayo, nayo), kunye ne-velvet ye-denim-blue. iblazer enebreast enye enebhulukhwe ehambelanayo, akukho qhina. Imibala yayicace ngendlela emangalisayo kulo lonke. Kwaye kubunewunewu obusulungekileyo, kuthekani ngebhatyi emhlophe yokucheba zip-front, turtleneck ye cashmere kunye ne jean? Icocekile kwaye icocekile.
Indawo yokuphumla eLuxe ngeyona ndlela ibalaseleyo, iingubo ezitshayayo zeza kwivelvethi yeentyatyambo zetropikhi enxitywe ibhulukhwe yepijama yeikat blot kunye neelofu zetassel. Ndisesekhaya, kodwa yenze isitayile sikaTom Ford.