Umlawuli wezoYilo uPierpaolo Piccioli wonwabile yingqokelela emnyama nemhlophe kunye nengqokelela eyilwe kakhulu ekwindla ka-2021.
UPierpaolo Piccioli wavula amanqaku akhe engqokelela yeValentino ngesicatshulwa esivela kuLucio Fontana, igcisa lase-Italiya elaseka iSpatialism kwaye lidume kakhulu lasika kwaye lahlaba icanvases. Isalathiso sasifanelekile, kuba umyili wabonisa i-silhouette entsha ngokupheleleyo - iilokhwe ezimfutshane kunye neziketi - ngokumangalisayo ukusika kunye nokutshintsha ubungakanani bomsayino wakhe wobude bomgangatho kunye noyilo lwamanzi.
Iibhulukhwe zamadoda nazo zazinqunyulwe zaya kutsho ngaphezulu kwamaqatha. U-Piccioli uye wazama ukujonga okufutshane ngentwasahlobo, kodwa wavuma ukuba le yeyona nto ibalulekileyo ekwindla.
Umyili wadibana neqela elincinci leentatheli- zonke zavavanywa ngokufanelekileyo kwaye zikude ekuhlaleni-emva komboniso, owawusasazwa bukhoma kwiPiccolo Teatro di Milano ngoMvulo, mhla iMilan kunye nengingqi yeLombardy babuyela kwizithintelo eziqatha, bangena kwindawo ebizwa ngokuba yiPiccolo Teatro di Milano. indawo e-orenji-inyathelo nje elingaphantsi kwendawo ebomvu- inikwe i-pickup kusulelo lwe-coronavirus. Umoya obuhlungu wonyuswa ngokudlala ngqo nguCosima kunye neMilan yeSymphonic Orchestra uGiuseppe Verdi, ecula ingoma kaSinéad O'Connor ethi "Akukho nto ithelekiswa ne-2U."
Kodwa umyili wayefuna ukuhambisa umyalezo wenkululeko kunye nethemba, esithi ukuvulwa kwethiyetha emva kweenyanga ezininzi kuvaliwe "yayinesibindi, phantse uphawu lwepunk," ekwaziyo "ukwabelana ngeemvakalelo zomboniso xa imisebenzi yoluntu isenziwa. wakhanyela.” Ugxininise ukuba iPiccolo "luphawu lwenkcubeko eqhubela phambili kwaye ibandakanya zonke izithethe ezimele uphawu lwethu, yindawo yokubandakanywa kunye nenkululeko."
UPiccoli uthe ufuna ukuzibamba, enikezela ngomyalezo ocacileyo. Wenjenjalo ke, njengoko ingqokelela yeekhowudi ixhomekeke kwizinto ezichanekileyo kunye nephalethi enkulu emnyama namhlophe, ngaphandle kwembonakalo yegolide embalwa. Yayiyi-ode kubuchwephesha bobugcisa bukaValentino kunye neengcibi, njengoko ii-embroideries kunye ne-intarsia zazintle kwaye zineenkcukacha ezimangalisayo, phantse i-couture-like. U-Piccioli akaze azikhwebule kwinto ayibiza ngokuba “ngumoya we-couture njengenkcubeko, kodwa isetyenziselwa yonke imihla kwaye ngaphandle komnqweno wangaphambili.”
Into ebonakala ngathi i-turtleneck ye-mesh yayiyenziwe ngemigca ephothiweyo yelaphu ebekwe kwi-tulle, eyenza ipateni yedayimane, kwaye ifakwe kwiileyile phantsi kwehempe, i-pullover kunye nedyasi. I-archival macro V logo okanye igridi yetshekhi enkulu ekhazimle nge-intarsia, eyongeza ukuthungwa, ngelixa i-lace ye-Victorian ye-bib-efana nomhombiso ehombise ilokhwe ye-polka. Impahla yangaphandle yayibalasele, njengoko uPiccioli waphinda wabuyela kwiipeacoats kunye neebhatyi njengee-capes-esinye isikhumbuzo se-couture.
Ngokuhlwa, ubude babuya kwiingubo ezijikelezayo.
Into ebalaseleyo yayiyigawuni yechiffon emnyama kwiiphaneli zomntu omnye ezidityaniswe ngeeribhoni. Ezothando? Mhlawumbi, kodwa u-Piccioli, wachaza ukuba uthando kwisigama sakhe alumeli "ubuhle kodwa u-Sturm und Drang, lukhetho ukuba ngumntu, hayi iqela, yi-punk anarchy kunye ne-subjective. Olu luthando lobuqu olungakumbi, olusondelelene ngakumbi, kukho ukuthabatheka kodwa lo ayingowasetyhini onomtsalane okanye indoda eyindoda, akukho zimbono zicingelwayo, ngabantu ababonwa ngokobuqu, ngaphandle kwamazwi athethwayo.”
Izincedisi nazo azizange zidane. Ukongeza kubunqunu obutsha, iimpompo ze-stiletto ezinezithende ezineenzwane ezigxininisiweyo, umyili wabonisa iibhuthi ezinamaphepha e-rubber aqoshiwe, agxininise ukuqina kwawo.
U-Piccioli wawangawangisa iimbekiselo kwingqokelela yecouture ka-Valentino Garavani yowe-1989 ephefumlelwe ngumyili wezakhiwo waseVienna uJoseph Hoffman, ophawulwe ngokuhombisa i-motifs emnyama namhlophe.
“Andijongi ixesha elidlulileyo okanye oovimba, ukuziphonononga kuya kuba kukuxelisa, kwaye emva kweminyaka engama-20 ndiseValentino, ndiyakholelwa ukuba ndizifunxa iikhowudi zolu hlobo ndaza ndaphinda ndacacisa ngendlela eyahlukileyo, bayinxalenye ye mna. Kuya kuba nzima ukwahlula ubuwena bam nobukaValentino,” utshilo. "Unxibelelwano nexesha elidlulileyo yinxalenye yesazisi sobuhle."
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Ngokwenyani, ingqokelela ijongeka intsha kwaye kufuneka ibonelele isizukulwana esitsha uphawu ebelusenza. Isigqibo sikaPiccioli sokusebenzisana nomdlali we-actress, umculi kunye no-activist u-Zendaya phambi kweentengiso zasentwasahlobo zihambelana nenjongo yakhe yokwenza ilebula ihambelane ngakumbi kunye namaxesha kunye nokubandakanya ngakumbi, ngelixa igcina iikhowudi zayo ezigciniweyo.
Nanjengoko amanqaku omboniso acaphula iFontana, uPiccioli uthe akukho mxholo uthile wokuqokelelwa. Ngapha koko, umyili akakuthandi ukubaliswa kwamabali kwifashoni, ekholelwa ukuba kwezinye iimeko kuye kwaba liqhinga. "Ibali yingqokelela ngokwayo, ngomsebenzi wam ndingenza ezopolitiko, ndizise izithethe kunye neemvakalelo, ulwimi, kwaye ukuba lapha sisenzo."