Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
UKarl Lagerfeld ukrobe kuluhlu lwekhamera kwi-iPhone 6 yakhe kwaye wadanyaza umfanekiso osandula ukufunyanwa mva nje: Umyili waseJamani eseyinkwenkwana enxibe i-lederhosen. “Ndisengumntwana andizange ndanxiba enye into,” watsho enyusa amagxa.Iibhulukhwe zesikhumba ziphefumlele isikhwama seChanel esitsha esinecheeky, i-drop-front fly iguqulwe ibe yipochi eneziphu enokwenza ukuba ukuloba i-lipstick kube ngumsebenzi obangela ukuba blush.
“Kufuneka uvume ukuba iyahlekisa, kumda wokungcola. Kodwa iyavakala, ”utshilo uLagerfeld ngovuyo ngexesha lokujonga ingqokelela yakhe yamva nje yeMétiers d’art, ebizwa ngokuba yiParis-Salzburg.
Ngokunika ubomi obutsha kwisitayile seAlpine, uLagerfeld uqhubela phambili ilifa lamagama endlu uGabrielle Chanel, owafumana inkuthazo yenye yolona yilo lwakhe lubalaseleyo noluhlala luhleli kwi-trim eyahlukileyo, eneepokotho ezine zejacket enxitywa ngumqhubi we-lift we-Salzburg's. Ihotele ekhethekileyo yaseMittersall. Umnini wayo ngelo xesha, uBaron Hubert von Pantz, wayesisithandwa sikaChanel kwiminyaka engamashumi amathathu, kwaye ukubuyela kwakhe ekusekweni kumashumi amabini eminyaka kamva kwaba lithamsanqa.
"Kwi-Fifties, wabuyela apha, yindlela awayibona ngayo le bhatyi kwaye yiloo ndlela i-Chanel jacket yazalwa ngayo," uLagerfeld wachaza ngoMvulo njengoko ebeka ukugqiba kwingqokelela. "Ujonge iChanel kwiminyaka yamashumi amabini anesithathu kwaye kwakungekho nto inje."
ILagerfeld yaphangisa ilanda iinguqulelo ezintsha zebhatyi yeChanel - kunye nekhephu elineqhwa leejezi ezinogwebu kunye neeblawuzi - ngexesha lemiboniso emithathu yeenqwelomoya kwibhotwe laseRococo iSchloss Leopoldskron. Lo mboniso ufumene izinto eziqhelekileyo zeTyrolean, ezongezelelekileyo zexesha langoku, kwinqanaba lefashoni yehlabathi.
"Yenziwe kakuhle, indlela abaxuba ngayo isiko ukusuka kwindawo ethile kunye nomoya weChanel," utshilo umlingisi u-Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Kukho imbonakalo yalo lonke uhlobo lomfazi."
Phambi komboniso, ii-VIPs kunye nabahleli bafota iifoto zesaluni enkulu eneendawo zomlilo ezenziwe ngebhastile, iibhalkhoni zentsimbi ezenziweyo kunye nethafa elijonge kwichibi elizolileyo, elingwevu-luhlaza. I-Woodsmoke evela egadini yavuza kwigumbi, yongeza kwihombise yasebusika yeetafile ezithwele amaqebengwana, iiorenji ezinee-orenji kunye nokulungiswa kweziqhamo okukhumbuza imizobo yenkulungwane ye-17.
“Intle, kwaye ineenkcukacha kakhulu,” wamangaliswa uBergès-Frisbey, ozilungiselela indima yakhe elandelayo, njengoGuinevere kuGuy Ritchie oziqhelanise ne “Knights of the Round Table.”
“Siqala ukwenza ifilimu ngoFebruwari, ikakhulu eNgilane,” utshilo. “Inzima kakhulu. Ndiyalungiselela."
Umlingisi waseJamani uMavie Hörbiger, ohlala eOstriya, wathi uhlaselo lweChanel yayisisiganeko esimnandi: “Ukuba nefashoni eSalzburg, ayiqhelekanga kangako kubantu baseOstriya.”
Umboniso weLagerfeld uncede ukutshisa ixesha elingaphambi kokuwa kunye ne-hyper embellished ithatha i-conservative chic: Iinkwenkwezi ze-Crystal ezikhazimulayo kwi-prim, i-cardigan yendlovu eboyeni obubilisiweyo; i-edelweiss ehlotshiswe kwi-suede leggings; kunye neeribhoni eziguqulwe zaba yimikhono emikhulu, ephothiweyo kwidyasi engummangaliso eyenziwe ngeentsiba, ukunqwala ukuya kwi-falconry eyayisenziwa ngabasebukhosini baseOstriya bamandulo.
“Intle kakhulu kuye, akunjalo? Le yeyona nto ikufutshane onokuthi ufike kuyo kwi-dirndl, ”utshilo uLagerfeld njengoko uLara Stone wayengena kwisinxibo esimfaneleyo kwilokhwe emnyama yetaffeta eneflap efana nefaskoti ejikelezwe ziiruffles. Andifuni ukuba ibukeke ‘njengeNdlwana eNcane ePrairie.’” (Nangona kamva lo mfanekiso wawunokujongwa egadini uphezu kojingi womthi owawuxhonywe kwisebe lomthi, usana lwakhe oluyimveku luncwina luchulumanco ethangeni lakhe. )
Kwakukho ii-winks kubukumkani base-Austro-Hungarian, kwakhona, uLagerfeld waphawula, xa ukuthungwa okungaphezulu kweeleyisi, i-ruffles, kunye neeribhoni zaziyi-la mode.
“Ndiyawuthanda umoya,” watsho umyili. "Andifuni ukwenza nantoni na ifolkloric. Oku kungaphezulu kwentelekelelo. Kufuneka ibe yeyanamhlanje, kufuneka ilungele namhlanje, umlinganiselo, yonke into. "
Ukuthetha nje: I-Heidi braids yonakaliswa kwiindlebe ezinqabileyo, ngelixa ezo bhulakhwe zazitolikwa kakhulu njengeebhulukhwe zedenim ezikhabayo, ezithungelwe ngee-curlicue embroideries.
Umboniso wavulwa ngothotho lweebhatyi ezigqabhukileyo, ezifana nekepisi ezinemiluko ehonjisiweyo okanye ivelvet. I-Lagerfeld isebenzise iziphumo ezifanayo ze-cape kwii sweatshi ze-turtleneck, iilokhwe zepati, kunye neekhaphusi ezivuthelweyo eziphekwe ngeentsiba ezingaqhelekanga.
Lagerfeld’s ode to Mitteleuropa swing between homespun - iintyatyambo inaliti kanye ukusuka kwi embroidery hoop zahluthwa apho iipokotho eziphothiweyo zikaChanel zihlala zihlala khona-ukuhamba kancinci, okufana neebhulukhwe zeflaneli ezintle ezinemigca ephothiweyo kunye neempahla zokucheba ezinamachokoza egolide okanye isilivere.
Isinxibo sangokuhlwa sasikhethekile, kukho amabhabhathane kunye neentsiba ezithe tyaba kwi-chiffon eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, kunye nemikhono yebhishophu ekhukhumeleyo yongeza umtsalane wothando kwiilokhwe ezimnyama ze-satin ezinomthamo we-dirndl.
Ngethuba lokugoba kwakhe, uLagerfeld wakhupha i-pretzel etafileni waza wayinika uCara Delevingne, owathi waluma waza wayibamba phezulu njengebhola ekhatywayo emva kokubetha.
Malunga ne-220 yabathengi ababalaseleyo beChanel, kubandakanywa iqela elikhulu elivela kwiYurophu ethetha isiJamani, behla kwesi sixeko sibukekayo, sixatyiswe ngeziko laso lembali, indawo yasentsomini, iopera kunye namabhotwe afana neLeopoldskron.
“Intle kakhulu. Yenye yeendawo endizithandayo eYurophu. Ndiyayithanda igadi. Ukuba akukho nkungu ungazibona iintaba,” utshilo uLagerfeld. Waphawula ukuba kwiminyaka eyi-26 edlulileyo wadubula umkhankaso weChanel kunye nomzekelo we-Inès de la Fressange kwibhotwe, enye yeyokuqala kwindlu yesiFrentshi.
“Bendidla ngokuza apha kakhulu,” watsho njalo umyili. “Ndade ndarenta izindlu kule ndawo. Ndiyayithanda iSalzburg, ndiyayithanda le ndawo.”
NgoMvulo ebusuku, iindwendwe zizimase isidlo sangokuhlwa eSt. Phambi kokuba wonke umntu azinzile kwisidlo esiziikhosi ezisixhenxe esivulwe ngetartare yefawn, iitapile rösti kunye neplum chutney, umyili wabonisa ikliphu yevidiyo yemizuzu esixhenxe enomculo othi “Wonwabile” uPharrell Williams njengalaa nkwenkwe iphakamisa i-ultra-chic kunye noDelevingne njengomdlali weqonga. Ukuvela ngokutsha kuka-Empress Elizabeth waseOstriya, owaziwa ngokuba nguSissi.
"Ngaba unokuba yintombazana yokundinceda ndibone, ndibone (CC) ihlabathi," uWilliams croons kwingoma yokuqala ayibhala njenge-duet kunye nomzekelo, owenza izinto kunye nomculo.
Umtsalane osecaleni kolu hambo lweAlpine lubandakanya iimarike zeKrisimesi ezidumileyo zaseSalzburg kunye neekonsathi zomculo zoyena nyana udumileyo wesixeko, uWolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Iindwendwe kumboniso wefashoni zishiye ibhegi equlathe ukuprintwa kwakhona kwe "Der Rosenkavalier," i-comic opera kaRichard Strauss esekwe kwi-libretto yaseJamani kaHugo von Hofmannsthal, kunye nenguqulelo yayo yesiNgesi kunye ne-beribboned portfolio yemizobo ka-Alfred Roller. yempahla kunye neeseti zemveliso ka-1910.
Esoloko engunozakuzaku wenkcubeko, uLagerfeld wade wacenga iindwendwe ukuba zithathe iitreyi zokutya okuluncuthu kwalapha ekhaya, kuquka iKaiserschmarren, ipanekuku ecatshulweyo ethiywe ngomlawuli waseOstriya uFranz Joseph I, owathi uWilliams waphinda wazalwa kumboniso bhanyabhanya ohamba nomboniso.
“Kufuneka uyingcamle: Yeyona nto ibalaseleyo emhlabeni,” watsho umyili lowo.
Ingqokelela ye-Métiers d'art, iwashi ezuzwa ngamadijithi amabini, imele eyona ndawo ikhula ngokukhawuleza yeshishini leChanel namhlanje, ngokutsho kukaBruno Pavlovsky, umongameli weChanel fashion.
“Kukho umxholo omninzi, kwaye abathengi bethu bayayithanda yonke le ngcamango ejikeleze uphawu,” utshilo. "Kungekudala iza kubaluleka ngokulinganayo njengengqokelela ka-Oktobha okanye kaMatshi."
Yaziswa ngo-2002 ukuphakamisa ii-ateliers ezikhethekileyo ezingabanini bakaChanel, kuquka ingcaphephe yaseSkotlani ye cashmere uBarrie kunye nenkampani yaseFransi yetweed A.C.T. 3, ekufunyenwe kwayo kutyhilwe ngoMvulo, ingqokelela yonyaka yeMétiers d'arts ngoku ixhaswa liphulo lentengiso elizinikeleyo - iSalzburg eyokubonisa uDelevingne noWilliams - kwaye iphathwa kuzo zonke iivenkile zefemu yaseFransi ezili-189, kunye nase. malunga 100 khetha iivenkile ezizodwa.
Ukuthengisa okunegwebu, uPavlovsky wabanga ukuhanjiswa kwangoko - phakathi kuMeyi ukuya eMelika kuqala, kulandelwa yiYurophu kunye neAsia phakathi kuJuni - kunye nengxelo eyomeleleyo emva kwengqokelela, nganye ivelisa isahluko esitsha kwikhondo lomsebenzi elimibalabala. igama lendlu. UChanel uye waya eDallas, eShanghai, e-Edinburgh naseTokyo ukuze abonise umgca omtsha.
“Abathengi bethu, baqhele ukubona iisilhouette ezintsha kunye nezinto ezintsha kwi-boutique rhoqo emva kweenyanga ezimbini,” utshilo uPavlovsky. Ngalo lonke ixesha, kuninzi okuthethwayo ngobomi bakhe - bokwenyani kunye nentelekelelo. Lo mxholo kukwakha iChanel yangomso. "
Udliwano-ndlebe naye kwigumbi eligutyungelwe ngamaplanga elijongene nechibi elalisakuba yiofisi kaMax Reinhardt, umlawuli wethiyetha owaziwayo kunye nomseki woMnyhadala waseSalzburg, uPavlovsky waqaphela ukuba ukulungele ukunxiba lelona candelo lemveliso likhula ngokukhawuleza eChanel, kwaye lihlaziywe. kunye neevenkile ezandisiweyo, zonke zenziwe ngumyili wezakhiwo uPeter Marino, zifanele ukwamkela ukhetho olubanzi lweefashoni.
I-Chanel isanda kufudusa ivenkile yayo yaseVienna, indawo yayo kuphela yase-Austrian, ngenxa yesi sizathu, kwaye kutshanje yenza okufanayo eHamburg naseFrankfurt. I-Dusseldorf iphezulu ngokulandelayo.
Ngelixa uluhlu lweMétiers d'art lutyhalele amaxabiso kwiindawo ezintsha - iidyasi zinokubaleka ngokulula ukuya kuthi ga kwi-25,000 yeedola - uPavlovsky uqaphele ukuba kukho izinto ezifikelelekayo, nazo. "Akungombuzo wexabiso, kuninzi malunga nexabiso lezi mveliso," watsho.
Xa ebuzwa ukuba ngaba ingqokelela ye-Métiers d'art-edla ngokukhuthazwa yindawo efana neRashiya, i-Indiya, okanye iTurkey- iyavakala kwezo marike zithile, uPavlovsky uphendule wathi: “Ngokunyaniseka, asijongi nokujonga. Ukubaliswa kwamabali eDallas kwakunamandla eTshayina naseJapan njengoko kwakunjalo eMelika. ”
Nangona kunjalo ubukho bukaLagerfeld e-Austria, iindaba ezikwiphepha elingaphambili kumaphepha aquka iSalzburger Nachtrichten kunye neKronen Zeitung, kunye neqoqo lakhe leChanel liqinisekile ukuba liya kuvakalisa ifa lefashini kunye nenkcubeko yalo mmandla.
ULagerfeld, owanxiba iblazer ngexesha lokuhlala kwakhe, wabiza isicatshulwa sexesha elidlulileyo: "Izizukulwana ziyafika zihambe, kodwa i-lederhosen iya kuhlala ihleli."
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