Kwingqokelela entsha yamadoda ekwindla/ebusika ka-2020 uJ. UAnderson: Imbeko kuWojnarowicz kunye noRimbaud Paris
Amanqaku e-mannequins ayehleli kumgca ongaphambili e-J W Anderson ngexesha lesidlo sasemini ngoLwesithathu, abagcini beentloko zabo zigqunywe ngekhadibhodi ebusweni buka-Arthur Rimbaud. Imbeko hayi kwimbongi yesiFrentshi kuphela kodwa nakuDavid Wojnarowicz, umfoti, igcisa, umlweli we-AIDS kunye nomfanekiso wenkolo ye-Lower East Side.
Kwaye inkuthazo yomboniso ophefumlelweyo kaAnderson, ingxelo yefashoni yamva nje egxininiswe ngumyili waseBritane onempembelelo. Ibekwe ngaphakathi kolindelo lweLafayette, isiseko sobugcisa sevenkile enkulu yesebe laseFransi, lo mboniso wawukwasisipho esibuhlungu kumzuzu omnyama kwihlabathi lokudala laseNew York, xa uGawulayo watshabalalisa uluntu.
URimbaud wayeyinkuthazo enkulu kuWojnarowicz owakha umboniso wonke wobugcisa ejikeleze iifoto zakhe enxibe imaski efanayo yembongi, edubula imifanekiso kwizidlo zasedaffy, iindawo zokupaka ezingasasetyenziswayo kunye neefektri ezitshileyo.
Uninzi lwengqokelela yenziwe ngeedyasi ze-humongous kwiintlobo ngeentlobo zeempahla ezilukiweyo - isilika ephothiweyo, ithambo le-herring enesibindi, i-jacquard enqabileyo okanye iitshekhi zaseScotland - zihlala zigqitywa ngokutyikitywa kwe-JW iibhanti zegolide ezijongeka njengeebrotshi zabasetyhini. Iimilo zedyasi ezininzi zivumelana neqweqwe elidumileyo lencwadi kaWojnarowicz ethi Weight of the Earth, apho abonakala esongelwe ngengubo enkulu ebhedini.
Amabhanti amakhulu afanayo agqibezela iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane ezimhlophe zaseIndiya okanye malunga neziliphu zesikhumba zedolophu. Nangona ingcamango kaAnderson enesibindi yayiyi-singles emhlophe, igqitywe ngeentambo zesilika ze-accordion. Okanye ijezi ze-natty ezineentambo kunye namagxa alungiswe kwiiperile zobuxoki.
Ubomi buka-Davis yayiyingxoxo malunga nento eyenzekayo eMelika kunye nehlabathi ngelo xesha. Ndifumanise ukuba eyakhe yayiyimbono ye-JW malunga nokuvuthela izinto okanye ukusebenzisa ukusika unxantathu. Ukujonga indlela oyenza ngayo imveliso enkulu, kwaye endaweni yokuba needyasi ezili-15 mhlawumbi zibe nedyasi enye kwizinto ezininzi kwaye uyiphuhlise, ukuya kuthi ga apho ivakala ngathi ibisoloko ikhona. Kanye njengobuso bukaRimbaud. Isoloko ikhona, phantse njengoMarilyn Monroe, kodwa inguqulelo yombongo efihlakeleyo, uchaze uAnderson, engqongwe ngabahleli abamalunga nama-30 bezama ukurekhoda amazwi akhe kwiiselfowuni zabo.
Nangona umsebenzi weWojnarowicz kunye ne-stencil wawufakwe kwi-seti enkulu ye-chunky pullovers okanye i-totes ehlanganiswe ngoboya, igqitywe ngemifanekiso eqingqiweyo yezindlu ezivuthayo.
˝UDavid wayeligcisa eliphuhlileyo wayesenza ubugcisa ngeestencil iminyaka ngaphambi kweBanksy. UDavid wayenguMelika xa wayevakalelwa kukuba sisiphelo sehlabathi, kodwa kwakungenjalo. Kanye njengeRimbaud, apho kukho ithemba nokuba inzima kakhulu, ˝ waxoxa watsho uAnderson.
Ukusweleka kweqabane lakhe, uPeter Hujar, ngenxa ye-AIDS ngo-1987 kwakhokelela u-Wojnarowicz kwipolitiki yomzabalazo ebomini bakhe nasemsebenzini - kunye nothotho olubalulekileyo lweememori kunye neejenali zelizwi. U-Rimbaud wabulawa ngumhlaza wamathambo eneminyaka engama-35 ubudala ngo-1891. UWojnarowicz wenza iminyaka engama-37, esweleka nguGawulayo kwikhaya lakhe eManhattan ngo-1992.
J.W. Anderson Menswear Spring/Summer 2020 Paris
Impembelelo yabo, nangona kunjalo, iphila ngokuqaqambileyo.