Phambi kweValentino Menswear Fall/Winter 2020 Paris show, iimodeli zifika kwiNdawo yaseVendome yaseParis.
Kwi-catwalk i-menswear engalindelekanga kunye ne-Art touch ye-Inez kunye neVinoodh kunye noMelanie Metranga kunye ne-co-lab kunye ne-Onitsuka Tiger. Kwaye icheri kwikhekhe ibiyinkqubo ephilayo yefkatwigs.
"Indlela yothando yokuchaza ngokutsha ukuthunga, indlela ye-atelier kwiimpahla zesitrato"
UPierpaolo Piccioli ucacisa ingqokelela yeValentino ngoku.
Kufutshane ukunxiba intliziyo yakho kumkhono wakho, intyatyambo nayo iya kwenza iqhinga. Kwakukho uthando emoyeni kumboniso weValentino, apho uPierpaolo Piccioli wasasaza iintyatyambo ezigqithisileyo kwiisilhouettes zakhe ezithambileyo, njengoko iFKA Twigs yayibethelela intliziyo yakhe kwinqanaba elincinci.
Umbono we-monochrome we-silhouette yamadoda kaPierpaolo Piccioli uqhwithela ingqokelela yasebusika yaseValentino kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseParis, yamkela i-baggy silhouette, umdlalo wangoku wokuma kwedolophu kunye nokusebenza kwe-chic yokuchwetheza ukuze kuqinisekiswe isindululo esisebenzayo nesisebenzayo.
Iimpawu zeentyatyambo zithathwe kwi-archive yezithombe ze-Inez van Lamsweerde kunye neVinoodh Matadin, kwaye zasebenza ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo: i-embroidery yethoni kwi-gray grandfather coat; I-brocade enemibala kwi-khaki yoboya kunye ne-silk park, okanye i-3-D appliqué kwingubo yekamela.
I-Valentino Spring/Ihlobo lika-2020 eParis
Iintyatyambo ezimnyama-namhlophe zahluma kwidyasi emnyama kunye nesuti, zombini zinqumle icala ukuze kube lula ukuhamba, idyasi ijinga ibhanti elide leliso. Yayiyinxalenye yokuthatha kukaPiccioli okutsha ekuthungeni isizukulwana esikhuliswe kwisinxibo sasesitratweni.
“Kukubonakaliswa ngamadoda kunye nombono wokuthandana kwamadoda namhlanje,” ucacisile ngexesha lokujonga. "I-Romanticism imalunga nokubonakaliswa komntu." Ikwamalunga nokwamkela icala lakho lobufazi, umboniso ucetyisiwe, njengoko iFKA Twigs yazisa imbeko yakhe yobufazi kuMary Magdalene.
Ngelixa iimpahla zesiqhelo zenza ubuninzi beshishini lamadoda eValentino, uPiccioli ucinga ukuba kukho indawo yobuhle obuphucukileyo - hayi nje iofisi okanye imicimbi ekhethekileyo. "Ndivakalelwa kukuba ukuthunga kunokwahluka: ubuthathaka ngakumbi, ubuncinci obufanayo," utshilo.
Umzekelo woku: ukusebenzisana kwakhe nomzobi uMélanie Matranga, omisebenzi yakhe enombhalo ogqithisiweyo wanikezela izilogeni ezityatyekwe kwiihempe, iibhatyi kunye needyasi. “Sithandwa esibi,” kwatsho oonobumba abangasekhoyo kwibhatyi yedenim ebrashiweyo. “Isidingo,” yabhala imithungo emhlophe kwihempe emhlophe qhwa.
I-Piccioli izise indlela yokudlala efanayo kwimpahla yangaphandle, idibanisa iibhatyi zesikhumba zomgunyathi ezinoboya obukhazimlayo be-bouclé obunike umphezulu ukuthungwa okuguquguqukayo. Ayizizo zonke iimvavanyo zakhe eziye zaphumelela: i-anorak eninzi, eyenziwe kwi-patchwork yeempahla zobugcisa kunye noboya bokuthunga, yayingekho intlanzi okanye intaka.
Ayisiyiyo into yokuba ibalulekile: emva kweminyaka yolawulo lwe-catwalk, iimpahla zemidlalo yayisisiqwengana somboniso. Endaweni yoko, i-spotlight yayiyeyokunxiba. Ngexesha lonyaka elineesuti ezitsha, uPiccioli wenza imeko eyomeleleyo yamandla entyatyambo.