LONDON, JANUWARI 8, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
Buyela eHogwarts! Umboniso wokuqala wenyanga yesinxibo samadoda wawumalunga nokubamba ngokukhawuleza-Yintoni ngeenwele zakho? Ngaba ubuso bam bukhangeleka bukrokra? Ngowuphi umkhuluwa kaJonas lowo?—kwaye ufutha isiqwenga sokuqala sesizini ezayo.
UGordon Richardson kunye neqela lakhe leTopman Design bahambisa ingqokelela kunye ne-Oscar Wilde skater-boy vibe. Ngasemva kwesiteji, ulwahlulo olongezelelekileyo lwamiswa lungqingqwa kwaye lwakhawuleza, ukusuka kwi-grunge ukuya kwi-analogue ukuya kwezemidlalo ukuya kweyasetyhini ukuya kokungoyikiyo: URichardson wabaphepha ngobunono bonke. "Ifanele ukuba yimeko efanelekileyo okwangoku, kodwa nokuba liliphi igama elililo, andazi."
Thumela uAlessandro Michele, ngokuqinisekileyo. U-Topman kunye nodade wabo banomdla kakhulu kwi-gust elula yemvumelwano yobuhle; apha iintyatyambo, imiqukumbelo yehempe eneblousy esetyenziswa njenge-skirting phantsi kweebhatyi, i-waistcoat emxinwa okanye iingubo, kunye ne-anonymizing voluminous blanket / duster coat, kunye ne-lushly unorthodox color palette yachukunyiswa yi-2015 ye-nu-Gucci hurricane. Bekukho ubunzulu obuncomekayo kulwaleko lwepentinto lweendlela zokuhombisa: I-Dévoré velor yayiprintwe kabini kwaye imakishwe.
Iibhatyi zazinamagxa aqinileyo, achaziweyo kodwa ayengakhiwanga ngezantsi. Ziye zawa phantsi emzimbeni ukuze zincedise ibhulukhwe ekhululekileyo, ethambileyo, ngokungaguquguqukiyo phezu kweeteki ze-suede ezineenkcukacha zeentyatyambo ezihonjisiweyo. I-silhouette iphefumle kwakhona ngebhayisekile enesinqe esiphezulu esidityanisiweyo kunye neblowuson yenylon echetyiweyo efakwe epokothweni. I-suit ye-turmeric evuthayo kwi-velvet echotshoziweyo yayiza kubonakala inzima ukuthengisa kwiinyanga ze-18 ezidlulileyo-ingakumbi kwi-brand njengolutsha njengale-kodwa namhlanje isiphakamiso sasibonakala sinengqiqo. Okona kunqweneleka ngakumbi yayiziinkangeleko ezihonjisiweyo ezihlanjiweyo zedenim, ukubamba nje ubukhulu obungaphezulu, kunye nezo dyasi zifumileyo zishushu.