LONDON, JANUWARI 10, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
Ihlabathi lonke lefashoni lizama ukukhangela indlela yokujongana nesantya-iingqokelela ezininzi ezifanayo zifuna ubuninzi beengubo. Abanye abaqulunqi bazama ngamandla ukubeka iziqhoboshi. Abanye—njengoJonathan Anderson—bayaphumelela. “Sisebenza kwihlabathi lesantya,” warhona emva kweqonga emva komboniso wakhe. Leyo yayiyimbono nje enye eyavakaliswa ngumyili phakathi kwecacophony yeconceits eziswe kwikliphu ekhawulezayo yomlilo washiyeka ephefumla. Ezinye zibandakanya izinto ezinje ngamabali angeyonyani, ukubalisa amabali asezidolophini, "intelekelelo kwisinxibo," kunye "nenyani yokuguquka."
Noba yintoni. Yayiyiloo ngcamango yesantya eyayibambekile. “Kufuneka ugcine isantya,” watsho ephefumla. Ifashoni ekhawulezayo ayiyodwa: Inkcubeko yethu yonke inyuse umxhelo. Umzekelo: U-Anderson ukhethe ukusebenzisana no-Grindr ukuba basasaze lo mboniso. "Andiboni mahluko phakathi kwe-app yokuthandana kunye ne-Instagram," watsho. Kodwa oku kukhankanyiweyo ngasentla yi-app ye-gay-networking network eqhayisa ngesiseko sabasebenzisi abazizigidi ezisi-7 kwaye yaziwa kakhulu ngokunxibelelana okungafunekiyo-ukuthandana ngokukhawuleza okukhulu, ngokwenene uyawubeka "umhla." Ngeli xesha, umboniso wakhe wawukhawuleza kakhulu kangangokuba amalungu abaphulaphuli ayesatyholwa ezihlalweni zawo ngelixa imodeli yokuqala yaqala ukubaleka umgaqo weenqwelo-moya.
Indlela yokuvakalisa isantya kwiimpahla? Ngee-clichés ezimbalwa, ezinje ngeeziphu ezinde, iiteki ze-Boxing boot-tabbed ye-Velcro-tabbed, ibhulukhwe yomkhondo, imvakalelo yomdlalo. Kodwa kuphela i-whiff engacacanga, kuba enye yayiyi-mélange edibeneyo yeembekiselo kunye neengcinga. Abanye babo basebenza—uboya bomvundla obubonakala bufakwe umbala nguStephen Sprouse njenge-ermine egulayo, eyosulelekileyo (ibomvu kumnyama, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ngokuchasene nomhlophe) yayiyimbalasane. Isigulo ngokubanzi sasivakala sisikhulu: ukubengezela okungeyompilo kwesikhumba esiluthuthu, ngaphandle kwedyasi yesikhumba emnyama enemingxuma; isibhakabhaka esingenasidima somlenze ongenanto ojinga ngokucaphukisayo phantsi kwedyasi yenkamela, isiteyidi sekhola ye-S&M. Ngaba u-Anderson wayecinga ngabahlali abamnyama bakaGrindr xa wayepheka abo? “Idyasi yenkamela phezu komlenze ongenanto yinto endihlala nditsaleleka kuyo,” watsho u-Anderson, encoma indlela ekulula ngayo ukwenza into yemihla ngemihla ibonakale ibhukuqile nje ngomxholo wayo.
Umxholo, kwimiboniso kaAnderson, yiyo yonke into. Ungumlondolozi okrelekrele othembele kuthelekiso lwesiphumo, ukutsala kwiimbono ezininzi zobuhle, azixube, kwaye azimpompe ngaphandle kwiimeko ezingalindelekanga. Tsala imbonakalo kwaye kukho ijezi, i-cardigan, ezo dyasi zenkamela ezisindileyo kwinguqu kubomi bemihla ngemihla be-humdrum. “Kwisizini nganye sityhala into ethile,” utshilo. "Kufuneka uzivumele ukuba wenze izinto ezingalunganga."
Wenze. Ngokomzekelo, iinkumba—izincamathelisi ezibengezelelekileyo ezisekelwe kwimibhalo encanyathiselwe kwimithwalo—zanda. Ubunethemba lokuba ungazixobula; bakubetha ngobudenge, babonakala bekude kakhulu. U-Anderson wagxininisa ukuba babezii-herrings ezibomvu- "xa isimboli singafuneki ukuba sibe nengqiqo," watsho-echaza ingcamango uMiuccia Prada waphonononga ixesha lokugqibela leengubo zamadoda kunye neemoto zakhe zomdyarho kunye nemivundla. Umntu unokufunda kwiimpawu zikaPrada ezicingelwa ukuba azinantsingiselo, kwaye namhlanje ii-escargots zikaAnderson zinentsingiselo, nokuba wayenenjongo okanye akunjalo. Bafuzisela isantya senkumba-ukucotha kwabanye abaqulunqi, mhlawumbi, ngokuchasene ne-Anderson's breakneck pace? Ubonisa ingqokelela yakhe yeempahla zamadoda zikaLoewe kwisithuba esingaphantsi kweeveki ezimbini, kodwa yonke loo nto yagqitywa kwiinyanga ezidlulileyo, kunye nephulo lokudutyulwa kokutyabeka kulo lonke elaseParis. Ngenzeka, ugqibile, kwaye wafota, isinxibo sakhe sokuwa sabasetyhini sele sikhona. Le yenye yeendlela zokumelana nesantya esingayekeleliyo sefashoni: Betha iwotshi ngaphambi kokuba ikubethe.