LONDON, JANUWARI 10, 2016
nguNICK REEMSEN
I-Moschino kaJeremy Scott iyahluka, kodwa ngokungenakuphikiswa iyonwaba. Uphawu lwakhe loburharha nguPop-ier, u-wackier, oneswekile ngakumbi kunokaFranco, kodwa ayisiyonto imbi: UScott ngumyili obetha iliso lenkunzi lokujonga kwam ngoku. Yonke into ayibonisayo inokuba yi-Snapchatted okanye i-Instagrammed kakhulu ngaphandle kokuthandabuza. Ingqokelela ayityhilileyo ngobu busuku, kwindawo yecawe yaseMayfair, ibicace kakhulu kunakuqala, kodwa bekukho ubuqili obubonakalayo, ngenxa yentsebenziswano yamagcisa aseBritane agitprop uGilbert & George.
UScott uthi: “Ndandifuna ukunxiba iimpahla ezizele kakhulu, ngoko ndandisela nabo iti. “Kwaye njengoko ndandibaxelela iimbono zam ngengqokelela, bathi, ‘Kutheni ningathabathi kwindawo yethu yokugcina izinto ezibalulekileyo?’ Ngoko ukususela kwiminqamlezo ukuya kwiintloko ukuya kwizilogeni [ezazibonakala ngokukhawuleza yaye zicaphuka phantse kuyo yonke into] kwakukho. zininzi izinto ezintle endikwazile ukuzidibanisa.” Ngokucacileyo, imizobo yeG&G enombala otyebileyo iye yabangela enye itsunami yechromatic kwingqondo kaScott ehlala icinga-ingqokelela yakhe yokuwa yayiyimvula yedruggy, rave-y neon, ukuya kuthi ga kwi-earlobes epeyintwe nge-fluorescent kunye ne-coifs. (Indawo engqonge indlu yecawa yasikhumbuza ngeLimelight, iklabhu yasebusuku yaseManhattan yee-'90s nayo eyayisecaweni, kwaye abanye babo babenxityiswa nguScott.) Idenim yayinonyango lwepeyinti yokutshiza, egotywayo kunye nemithungo eqatywayo (cinga trompe l 'ioli enxitywa ngabantwana beklabhu yamashumi alithoba). Iibhutsi zodidi lukaGqr. Martens, ezisikiweyo ezisebenza njengesimemo somboniso, zifumene igraffiti efanayo. Imivumbo yeCollegiate nayo yayisetyenzwa kwangethuba, nokuba ikwimo yesikhafu okanye ihempe, iboleka into embi kakhulu.
Ngandlela thile-kwaye esi sisalamane sithathela ingqalelo ubugwenxa bukaScott-kwakukho umgca wegazi osisiseko empahleni. “Iimilo ezininzi zilula kakhulu, kwaye ndenze izinto ezininzi ezidibanisayo,” utshilo. Phantse njengempahla edityanisiweyo—njengejezi enikiweyo enemikhono ye-MA-1.” I-Collage inokuthi ifakwe kuGilbert & George: U-Jourdan Dunn-ohamba njengenxalenye ye-Pre-Fall yabasetyhini baseMoschino, eboniswe ngaxeshanye-enxibe ijacket ye-aviator ene-hood ene-knit panel efakwe phantsi ngasemva kunye nemikhono enesitampu se-slogan. (Kwenye indawo, omnye umzekelo ophawulekayo waloo nto yayingu-SPUNK, eyayigqume iintshinga zeejini). ULucky Blue Smith wavula kwaye wavala umboniso kuLisa Frank brights, kodwa i-silhouette kunye nezinye iziqwenga ezininzi zazithe ngqo: isuti ngaphambili, kunye nomsele wokuwujikeleza.
Ekunye noNeneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Lucky, Jourdan, kunye noTaboo ovela kwiBlack Eyed Peas esesandleni, uScott, ngokwesiqhelo, weza nodumo kunye neeflashbulbs kwezinye iiCollections zaseLondon ezisezantsi: Amadoda. Kwaye uyathanda okanye awuthandi, yinxalenye enkulu yephakheji yakhe, uhlobo lwePop curation, kunye nokugqithisela ngenxa yolonwabo. Njengoko isiphelo sanyathela, i-remix kaMichel Gaubert ethi "Njengomthandazo" nguMadonna yafika ngokukhawuleza-kwaye emgceni, "wonke umntu kufuneka eme yedwa," awukwazanga ukuzibamba. UScott yingcuka eyedwa ngokuqinisekileyo, kodwa ubuzibuthe bakhe buthetha ukuba uya kuhlala ephethe ipakethe.