EMILAN, JANUWARI 16, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
"Umhlobiso ukwi-l'air du temps," watsho uStefano Pilati emva komboniso we-Ermenegildo Zegna owawugcwele kuyo: i-beading, i-embroidery, i-jacquard, i-fil coupe. Oko kuvakala ngathi kuxinene, kwaye izinto zesiFrentshi ziya kuvakala ngathi zinobuqhophololo, zivale inyani uPilati ekhokela uYves Saint Laurent phantse ishumi leminyaka, ke uvumelekile ukuba aboleke ulwimi ukuchaza imo ngokungathandabuzekiyo ebonakala kwaye etyhileka ngokukhawuleza kuyo yonke imiboniso yaseMilan. Imo yexabiso, kunye nendoda ehonjisiweyo.
I-Zegna ifake i-appellation ye "Couture" kwiilebhile zayo, ukubonisa umgca owenziwe nguPilati. Umntu unokucinga ngokubanzi ukuba uthetha i-couture kwi-mold yokulinga, ukutyhalela umda-iimilo ezingaqhelekanga, izixhobo ze-techy-kunye nethegi yexabiso. Noko ke, namhlanje uPilati uye wathabatha icwecwe njengengqokelela yengqokelela edlala ngeendibano zayo waza wayiguqulela kwisaci samadoda.
Yhuu enkulu. Iitoni zabayili beempahla zamadoda bazama ukwenza oko, ixesha emva kwexesha, ngokubanzi njengesizathu sokusebenzisa uhlobo lokuhombisa uPilati oluphawulwe njengomoya onjalo wale maxesha angoku. Mhlawumbi yiloo nto kanye eyabangela ukuba uPilato anyelise kancinane njengoko wayesithi “ukuhombisa.” “Andivumelani nendlela endiyibona ngayo,” watsho. Ngoko wenza into entsha ngayo.
Imbali kaPilati eSaint Laurent immilisela kwisiko lesiFrentshi somsebenzi ogxile kwi-atelier-ukutsala, ukuzoba, ukusebenza nzima phezu kwendlu yangasese- ngokuchaseneyo nokuhambisa imizobo kumzi-mveliso kunye nokulinda iisampulu ukuba zijike nazo, njengase-Italiya. . Uyawazi amasiko e-couture njengamagcisa ambalwa anxiba amadoda. Isibini naloo nto yokuba uPilati unengqondo yobuchopho, kwaye uvuselela ngabom, kwaye uyasiqonda isizathu sokuba ukuphindaphinda kwakhe ingcamango ye-couture ibe yenye yezona zinto zibalaseleyo ezizibophelele kumzimba wamadoda.
I-Haute couture ye-Zegna Fall 2016 ayizange iphathwe njengesizathu sokuhombisa, kodwa njengengcamango yokuhlola, imiqondiso yayo kunye neempawu zayo zahlulwe, zahlaziywa, kwaye zachazwa ngokutsha. Iseti yayiyi salon egcweleyo enemilenze ejijekileyo yokuhlala, kodwa yagqunywa kwiipeliti, njengesidlo sakusasa sikaMeret Oppenheim eFur. Kwaye izambatho zangqubuzana ngokugqithisileyo iintambo ze-couture: imiqulu elungiswe ngobuchule kwiidyasi ezifakwe phakathi kunye neminqwazi yokutshayela; iibrocade ezikhazimlayo kunye neejacquards; iimpahla zangokuhlwa ezihonjiswe ngamaso. Kodwa eli nqaku lavela ekhaya. Imodeli nganye yayinenani, njengomboniso wesalon yesintu: I-Pilati, nangona kunjalo, yayincanyathiselwe kwiminqwazi ye-fedora, ihonjiswe kwiqhina elinikiweyo, okanye ibotshelelwe kwiingxowa zesikhumba sethole. Ukrelekrele.
UStefano Pilati uhlakaniphe kakhulu-kwaye ngamanye amaxesha, uyazibuza ukuba ngaba amadoda afuna ngokwenene i-togs ehlakaniphile evela kwileyibhile yokunethezeka. Kutheni ungenzi nje into engathethiyo—idyasi yevicuña enkulu nexabiso eliphezulu; ingxowa enkulu yeengwenya ebiza imali eninzi—yaye wenze imali eninzi? Kuba ayisiyofashoni leyo, kwaye ekugqibeleni, ayiyonto yobumnandi. Ngaphezu koko, ayizinzile. Mangaphi amaxesha abantu abaya kufuna ukuthenga izinto ezifanayo ezingenangqondo, amaxesha ngamaxesha? Kufuneka uyixube.
Yiloo nto eyenziwa nguPilato apha. Umphezulu wawubalulekile, umhombiso wawungahlali phezulu nje kuphela kodwa ufakwe kwilaphu ngokwalo. Kwaye kuyo yonke loo nto yokuhombisa, ubuqili bebuphambili-imibala yayingekho: i-gray-blue, i-violet-gray, ukuncedisa ngokufanelekileyo inkamela, i-gray. “Awona maqhekeza angakholelekiyo ziijezi,” watsho uPilati ngempahla enithiweyo enamacala amathathu. Bazikhipha entanyeni, kodwa bathi iiziphu zazitsalwe zavuleka, zinxitywe ngokungakhathali kwe sweatshi esele igugile. I-Couture enesimo esitsha: Izinto ezixabisekileyo akufuneki ube nexabiso ngazo.
Ndahlala ndicinga ngoSaint Laurent-indoda-ngexesha lalo mboniso, njengoko sasiqhwabela iimpahla zikaPilati kwizihlalo ezifanayo nabathengi bakaYves abapake kuzo ukuze badlale nge-haute couture. UMonsieur uSaint Laurent wafuna le silence des vêtements, kwaye yayiyeyona nto ilungileyo malunga neZegna kaPilati. Ezi mpahla zazintle kodwa zithe cwaka. Ukuba bebethetha nantoni na, ibisithi "jonga, nceda." Ndingathanda ukwazi ukuba zibiza ntoni.
UYves Saint Laurent naye wayengenampazamo. I-Chic yayiligama elalihlala lithethwa nguPilati, esinekile, okomntwana othetha amanyala. Njengesichazi, i-chic ivakala ingamanyala-ligama esingakhange silive kutsha nje malunga neengubo zamadoda. Abantu bathanda ukuba nomsindo okanye bapholile. "I-Chic inokugqithiswa," wavumela uPilati. "Kodwa, ndicinga ukuba, le yayiyi-chic ngokwenene." Ngokuqinisekileyo eyona nto yayindibetha. Kwaye ndingumlandeli.