EMILAN, JANUWARI 17, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
UMassimiliano Giornetti ngokwenyani usekwe kuyo yonke inkangeleko kule ngqokelela kwisihlangu esenziwe ngumseki womqeshi wakhe esasikade siphethwe nguAndy Warhol. Umzobi uthenge iperi yeFerragamo oxfords-ekubonakala ukuba kuphela kwesitayile sezihlangu zamadoda ezakhe zayilwa yiBonito-born footwear maestro-kwaye wazinxiba ukuze zipeyintwe. -imibala yokutshiza ipeyinti.
Ukuveliswa kwakhona kwezi oxford zichukumiseke ngokuphindiweyo zisekele yonke inkangeleko apha namhlanje. Izihlangu ezinkulu zokungena. UGiornetti wenza inqindi elungileyo ngayo nangona kunjalo. Uthe wayephonononga ulwimi lwe-sartorial classicism kunye nobugcisa befashoni. Oku kuguqulelwe kwisinxibo sangaphandle sobunewunewu kunye nesinxibo esinesilhouette esondeleyo ka-Giornetti, ephoswe ngokuchasene neeqhina kunye neehempe eziqhanqalaze ngokuyilwa kobugcisa.
Imbonakalo yokuqala ye-mac emhlophe imele iseyile engenanto apho yonke yapeyintwa khona. Ijezi edityaniswe iminki emnyama phezu kwephaneli emhlophe yokucheba kwiphaneli yejezi ehonjisiweyo ehotyiweyo enemikhono yesikhumba yayiyimveliso ye-virtuoso. Iifoto ezigcweleyo zikaMario Giacomelli zemonochrome yamasimi alinyiweyo achaza umhombiso webhombu ebhidekileyo ebhidekayo, kunye nemibala kunye nesiphithiphithi se-Egon Schiele echaza ipateni esisiseko yokuwa kwi-knitwear kunye nehempe.
Kodwa libala yonke le "arty schmartery": kuba, iidyasi. Iziqhushumbisi zenayiloni zomnquma ezigudileyo kunye neepaki ezihonjiswe ngokucheba; inayiloni yaseJapan kunye nebhombu yokucheba; iisuti ezintathu zeeduffels kunye nefur-collar coverts-zonke zazimangalisa. I-silhouette ye-Giornetti ye-suiting silhouette inkqonkqoza kumnyango we-anachronism yeminyaka emibini edluleyo, kwaye umsebenzi wakhe wobugcisa onzima awunayo imvakalelo yokungxamiseka kwegazi kunye neendudumo. Noko ke, into anayo kukuchaneka okuthe ngqo. Nezihlangu eziqatywe ngepeyinti.