EMILAN, JANUWARI 17, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
I-icon ligama elisetyenziswa ngokugqithisileyo kwinkcubeko yangoku, hayi kwifashoni kuphela. Kukujikelezo lwangoku ukuchaza yonke into ukusuka kwihamburger ukuya kwibhulukhwe yangaphantsi. Ngaphandle kwe-Fall 2016 Calvin Klein Collection show, amawaka amantombazana akhwazayo abiza igama likaCameron Dallas, imvakalelo ebonakalayo kwi-intanethi. “Ngumfanekiso wethu,” watsho omnye wabo, iinyembezi zisehla ebusweni bakhe. Akukho namnye kwifashoni obonakala evile ngaye, singenako nokuyiqonda into ayenzileyo. YayiyiWarholian kakhulu.
Nantso into malunga ne-icon; azikho ezininzi kangangokuba wonke umntu unokuvumelana ngazo. U-Italo Zucchelli unezinto ezininzi ezifumanekayo kuCalvin Klein, nangona-impahla-bulumko, i-waistband enelogo kunye ne-designer yokuqala ye-denim ye-designer ehamba phambili yehlabathi ibeka phezulu; kukwakho naba basukiweyo, abathoniweyo, nabanxibe imizimba emincinci engafiyo nguBruce Weber, uhlobo lwabafana loo mantombazana afikisayo ebeya kukhala iminyaka engama-20 eyadlulayo. Inayiloni ephothiweyo ngegolide, iplatinam, kunye nerose-gold zenza ubuso kunye nemizimba yala madoda asebenza ngexesha, imifuziselo ekhutshiweyo eyenza umboniso kaCalvin Klein ubonakale wahluke ngokupheleleyo kuyo nayiphi na enye into kwisinxibo samadoda. Andizange ndikwazi ukuzibamba kodwa ndacinga ukuba babekhangeleka ngathi bafana nqwa nemifanekiso eqingqiweyo yamaKatolika yeengcwele ezikhangeleka kakuhle. Kodwa mhlawumbi oko kwakungeyonjongo.
UZucchelli wakha ingqokelela yakhe ngeli xesha kwelinye i icon: isuti yendoda. “Bendifuna ukubonisa amandla endalo yonke okuthunga amadoda,” utshilo. Wagqiba ukwenza oko ngokubeka iisuti zakhe zamadoda kubasetyhini okokuqala-imodeli ye-boldface efana noMariacarla Boscono, u-Iselin Steiro, uJessica Miller, kunye noGemma Ward. Ayinguye kanye uLinda, uChristy, uClaudia, kunye noNahomi, kodwa abo bane bangaphambili, banento yokuqaphela oko nangoko. “Yinkanuko, ngokwesondo,” watsho uZucchelli wezo suti zikaCalvin, zinxitywa eluswini ngamadoda nabasetyhini ngokufanayo. Baye banqunyulwa ngokufanelekileyo-ngamanye amaxesha ngokugqibeleleyo awuzange uqonde indlela abazakha ngayo iimodeli ze-muscular ku-Superman proportions. Akunjalo ukuba bebengekabikho ngokwemvelo: Kuthatha uhlobo olukhethekileyo lomntu ukuba akhangele kakuhle kwi-CK-waistbanded long-underwear-as-outerwear engaphantsi kweebhatyi zeesuti ekupheleni komboniso. Sonke siyazi ukuba kuthetha ukuthini oko.
Inguqu, nangona kunjalo, ingumxholo onomdla kwifashoni-kwaye ngakumbi apha eKlein. I-Zucchelli iguqule i-denim ibe yijacquard, ilukwe ngokukhawuleza kwi-trompe l'oeil yokugqoka kunye nokukrazula kwansuku zonke, okwenza imihla ngemihla ixabiseke. UZucchelli waqala wasebenzisa loo jacquard yejean ngeNtwasahlobo-ngoko babengenalo i-frisson emnandi yokumangaliswa. I-Ditto i-foiling, eyayisikhumbuza ngengqokelela ethile ye-Helmut Lang. Akukho mntu waphoswayo. I-Alchemy yayiyireferensi kaZucchelli eyaphoswa ngaphandle-ngokucacileyo, yinto ayithanda kakhulu, kwaye inethala leencwadi elizele ziincwadi ezibhekiselele kulo mbandela. Yayinengqiqo, zombini njengempembelelo ebonakalayo emva kwayo yonke loo nayiloni yesinyithi, ukumpompa impembelelo yembonakalo ye-anoraks ye-utilitarian kunye neebhatyi ze-MA1; kwaye mhlawumbi nobukho bomqolo ongaphambili weDallas entsokothileyo. I-Judicious googling yaqinisekisa ukuba uguqulwe waba yiplatinam yenkcubeko ngokusebenzisa amandla e-alchemic eendaba zoluntu zenkulungwane yama-21 (ngokucacileyo, ungumntu onobuchule bokusebenzisa iqonga lonxibelelwano leVine).
Ngaba uZucchelli wenze alchemize igolide evela eKlein ngale ngqokelela? Akunjalo. Iisuti zazimtyibilizi, kodwa ziluncedo; iilinen zentsimbi zazibanjwa, kodwa zaziva zithintelwe kuhlelo. Kwakungekho kwaneleyo koluphawu lwenyani lweKlein, nokuba. Lilonke, uZucchelli wahambisa umboniso owawuyisilivere esomeleleyo, enxibe isuti emnyama esikwe kakuhle.