NguMiles Socha
Ngaba kunengqiqo ukubonisa ingqokelela yamadoda nabasetyhini kwindlela yeenqwelo-moya enye? Inani elandayo labaqulunqi apha eMilan bathi "ewe," kuquka uMiuccia Prada, owachaza inkuthazo yakhe ngolu hlobo: "Xa ndisebenza kwingqokelela yamadoda, ndihlala ndinomdla kwaye ndonwabile kakhulu ukuphanda iindlela ezahlukeneyo amadoda nabasetyhini abasabela ngayo. ingcamango efanayo nenkululeko epheleleyo.”
Ke mhlawumbi yonke incoko kunye nokubambana ngesandla malunga nomgaqo weenqwelomoya obonisa ukuhamba kwabathengi liqhinga. Masiyive nge-coed!
Ngokuqinisekileyo uPrada wenze imeko enamandla ngalo mboniso ubalaseleyo, enye yezona mpahla zakhe zokunxiba zamadoda kwiminyaka. Okokugqibela ifashoni ye-edge-yesitulo sakho kunye nengqokelela ebingahlukanga nje kuphela kodwa ixhokonxa iingcinga kwaye inomtsalane ngokutsalwa kwayo okunamandla ngokweemvakalelo.
Yayingoobani la madoda namabhinqa anenkangeleko enebhongo awayenxibe iminqwazi yawo yomatiloshe, iidyasi ezithungelwe kakuhle neesuti ezifana neyunifomu, iikhola neeqhiya ezijijekileyo, ezijingayo nezijingayo? Ziziphi iintlobo zezaqhwithi, okanye iingxaki abajamelana nazo?
Ngasemva kwesiteji, uPrada uthe ucamngce ngembali ebanzi: Ayilulo uloyiso lwenkcubeko, kodwa "amaxesha amabi nanzima" afuna ubuqhawe kunye nomdla wokoyisa. Uphinde wacinga “ngento eyenzekayo ngoku,” ebhekisa kwiimfazwe, ugonyamelo nezidubedube ezitshabalalisa okanye ezigxotha izigidi zabantu. Umboniso wakhe, wathi, wawuyimveliso "yokuxuba, ngendlela yangoku, yonke loo mibono kunye nokufumana indlela yokuyenza ngoku."
Usebenzisana noshicilelo kunye noChristophe Chemin, umzobi owaziwayo ongumFrentshi onemizobo engumfuziselo - watshiza kwiihempe zenkampu yeFifties kuye, i-smocks yothando kuye - umbuzo kunye nembali ye-remix. Ngokomzekelo, enye kwipensile eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, enesihloko esithi "Oyena ubalulekileyo," idibanisa udumo, ibandakanya uHercules, uSigmund Freud ophethe intonga, uNina Simone kwiiglavu zebhokisi kunye noChe Guevara ophethe i-Oscar.
Le mifanekiso inamaleko ashinyeneyo yaphinda yachazwa kubutyebi bemilo emitsha, indibaniselwano kunye neenkcukacha eziye zafakwa kwibhodi yamasuntswana omthi eyakhiwe ukuvusa iqonga lemidlalo yeqonga okanye isikwere sikawonke-wonke. Amadoda ayenxibe iinguqu ezininzi kwiilokhwe zaselwandle, ukusuka kwiibhatyi ezincinci, ezisinqe esinqeni ukuya kwiihempe ezimangalisayo kunye needyasi zamagosa ezintle. Iikhola eziphaphazelayo kunye neebhondi - kwiingubo zeehempe, isikhumba esiqinileyo okanye i-denim ene-shearling-lined-ibukeka njengenguqu ye-2016 ye-Prada's hit fur tippets of yore.
Njengoko umboniso uqhubela phambili, iimpahla ziye zafumana ukuhonjiswa kwe-folkloric kunye nokuchukumisa i-homespun njengeepetshi ezinithiweyo okanye zokucheba ingqiniba. Ubukhulu becala, iPrada iqeshe izinto ezomeleleyo nezilula: Isikhumba seehempe zepopover kunye neebhulukhwe ezibhityileyo; idenim yeedyasi ezibhityileyo okanye iikepisi, kunye noboya obuchekiweyo bokuthomalalisa, ngokungacacanga iiblazi zeSeventies. Iibhulukhwe zazinqunyulwe ngokufanayo kwaye ngamanye amaxesha zazinzima ngaloo ndlela yePrada ngabom.
Iimbumba zabasetyhini zihambelana ngokusondeleyo nendlela, umtsalane womatiloshe ophetshethwa ngumoya, wabelana ngesondo kunye nezithende eziphakamileyo kunye neepatheni ezithathiweyo. Kwakukho uthotho lweelokhwe zesatin ezigqunywe ngokurhabaxa kunye neelokhwe zevelvet ezine-Forties airs-impembelelo yeshumi leminyaka yokuqokelela amandla ngeli xesha lonyaka langaphambi kokuwa - zonke zincama ngaphandle komqolo ovulekileyo.
Ebuzwa ngasemva kweqonga ukuba ufuna ithowuni epholileyo yomboniso, uPrada waphendula ngendlela yakhe engenakulinganiswa yefashoni: ubukrelekrele kodwa bungenamsebenzi. “Unzulu kakhulu kwaye ungumntu onzulu,” waphendula watsho. “Ukuzama ukuqonda ubunzima boluntu kunye noko simele sijamelane nako noko simele sikwenze. Kodwa ndiyazama, ndiyathemba, ukuyenza ibe ntle. ”