EMILAN, JANUWARI 18, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
Le yi-Etro, ke isihloko somboniso, "Imeko yeNdalo," kunye nentelekelelo yomgaqo weenqwelo-moya womgangatho wehlathi, yazisa isaqhwithi sasekwindla seepateni zamagqabi. Kodwa hayi: Eyona ndlu yaseMilan ehlala i-kaleidoscopic namhlanje ibonise ikhabethe ethe cwaka kangangokuba ibonakale ngathi yiPuritan ekuzibambeni kwayo. Ngokukodwa njengoko yeza ngqo emva kweGucci.
Imixholo yayiyi-rusticity kunye nobudlelwane bomoya. Umboniso bhanyabhanya ovulayo olandelwa kukufunda ngomsindo kaWalt Whitman ongutata wendalo yonke "iNgoma Yam" ubonise iimodeli ezigawula iinkuni ngokungathandabuzekiyo, ukutshaya umbhobho, kunye nokunye ukunxibelelana. Njengomjikelo weeyure ezingama-24 zosuku, ingqokelela yavula yaza yavalwa ngobumnyama. Indawo yokuvula yayiyibhatyi enomqukumbelo ophezulu kunye nebhulukhwe ebanzi ethe nkqo kumqhaphu orhabaxa, ophantse wamnyama bhulowu ngaphezulu kweqhina elimnyama elidityaniswe yenye iqhina—eli raspberry linye—zombini ezihonjiswe ngokungaqhelekanga okutyiwa linundu. Ekupheleni kwengqokelela, iqoqo leembonakalo ezimnyama zaphakanyiswa zombini kwimveliso kunye nokuhombisa-babandakanya ijacket ye-hussar emnyama ye-Hendrix-kodwa babesemnyama.
Imini phakathi kobu busuku yabona ixesha eliqaqambileyo-ibhulukhwe kwi-suede etyheli okanye eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, iibhatyi zejacquard ezinomtsalane zoboya kushicilelo lwezilwanyana ezazineprotheyini eqinisekisa isiqingatha-kodwa ngaphakathi kwenkqubo yemozulu ye-Etro, yayibusika. Ezi yayizimpahla zelizwe eliphakamileyo. Uboya beCheviot kunye neetshekhi ze-brown-spectrum zeza zifakwe nge-suede ukubonakala kokusebenza. Kwakukho iiovaroli ezintandathu, ezinye i-suede kunye ne-tweed. Izihlangu zaziyibrogu ezineepaneli zevelvet okanye i-suede zomdla ophezulu ezidityaniselwe kwi-crepe soles eziphakanyiswe kancinci. Isuti yetshekhi enye yayiprintwe ngokugqithisileyo ngepateni yesithunzi samagqabi, kwaye unyana ka-Kean Etro oneminyaka eli-15 ubudala uGerolamo wenza i-catwalk yakhe yokuqala ngengubo yoboya eshwabeneyo. Kwakukho ipaisley—kwakumele kubekho—kodwa oku kwakuthethela phantsi njengoko uEtro esifumana. Kutheni kuthe cwaka nje Kean? “Yimvakalelo nje. Yonke into ithotyiwe ngakumbi. Ngoko unokumamela umoya kunye nokusebeza kwendalo. "