EMILAN, JANUWARI 18, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
UMassimo Giorgetti wayenesiqingatha seshumi elinesibini leempapasho zegcisa lika-Elizabeth Peyton, imifanekiso enemibala yamanzi encanyathiselwe kwibhodi yakhe yokuwa kweMSGM. Kukho oza kuthengiswa eChristie, wathi, oko kuthengiswe ngesigidi seedola. “Uthathe iminyaka emithathu kuphela ukuba abe ligcisa elibalulekileyo,” watsho encwina. Mhlawumbi uGiorgetti wayecinga ngokunyuka kwakhe kwe-meteoric-ukusukela kunyaka ophelileyo, uyindoda entsha e-Emilio Pucci, into eyaziwayo encinci, ngaphandle kwe-left-field ye-august Florentine house. Ubonise ingqokelela yakhe yesithathu yePucci, ye-Pre, malunga neveki edlulileyo.
Impembelelo yomsebenzi kaPeyton kwingqokelela yanamhlanje yayikhonkrithi ngokufanelekileyo: ingqiqo yokuzenzekelayo, ngokukhawuleza, into ekhutshwe ngokukhawuleza, ithatha umzuzwana. UGiorgetti uthe uyayithanda loo nto, kwaye kukho ingqiqo ekhawulezileyo kwimpahla ayibonisileyo, eneenwele ezikrazukileyo kwaye ezantsi ngeeteki, phakathi kwamasuntswana okuthunga kunye nemidlalo ecudiweyo kwaye idityaniswe kunye. Ijezi, masithi, enomqukumbelo onqunqiweyo, ngokungathi abajingi baphazamisekile ngaphambi kokuba bafumane ithuba lokuyikrazula; amabala avuthululwayo anemingxuma, yaye imibala—ihazmat orange, Hockney blue, virulent geranium—yacinywa. Kwaba ngathi babetha i-retina yakho ngokukhawuleza kunabanye. Zijijekile emzimbeni, iimpahla zazibonakala ngathi zitsalwa ngokungxama, okanye kumnyama.
UGiorgetti wayeyithanda into yokuba uPeyton asebenzise isitayile sakhe se-slapdash ukupeyinta "abantu abaqhelekileyo kunye nobukhosi." Oko kwabonakaliswa kukudityaniswa kwamalaphu, aqhelekileyo nasesikweni, iidyasi ezigulayo zelungelo elilodwa lomenzi wechiza kunye neebhulukhwe ezineekhadi zoboya eziphothiweyo, ezinye zazo ziqhoboshelwe ngeentsimbi ezenziwe ngeplastiki, ngokungathi zisuka kwimihla yeprom ekruthiweyo. Ushicilelo lwaphantse lwayekwa—endaweni yoko, uGiorgetti wasebenzisa iindlela ezichitha ixesha, njenge-intarsia inlays okanye i-jacquards, ukuluka imizobo yakhe. Usenokuba awukhange uqaphele: Umyili uqhumisele iCassius, ibhendi ye-electro yaseFransi, ukwenza yonke into impompo ngesantya esiphakamileyo, kwaye umboniso uvalwe.
Kunokuba uzive usoyika ngenxa yesantya sefashoni namhlanje, okanye ngaphezulu kweemfuno ezibekwe emagxeni omyili omncinci ngokwentelekiso (uGiorgetti uneminyaka engama-39; eMilan uninzi lwabakhuphisana naye baneminyaka engama-20 kuye), uye waziva unamandla kwakhona. Kwakubonakala ngathi uGiorgetti wenjenjalo. Ukuba uziva ecinezelekile, ngokuqinisekileyo akabonisi.