EMILAN, JANUWARI 16, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
Inkangeleko yaphakathi ehlotyeni eSicily inyakazela luthuli nobushushu kangangokuba ifane ne-epic, imbonakalo eyomileyo yeSergio Leone's spaghetti Westerns. Olu qwalaselo-lwenziwayo, uStefano Gabbana uthe, kwindawo enzulu phakathi kwePalermo kunye neCatania-yayiyeyona nto yabangela ingqokelela namhlanje edibanisa yonke imotifs yaseNtshona. Kodwa ngelixa abadubuli abathandathu, i-cacti, iinqwelo, iminqwazi ye-cowboy, abakhweli bamahashe kunye ne-lassos babekho kuyo yonke indawo kwiimpahla, zazingekho kuzo. Oko kuvula okunamandla okuchetywa kweponcho ngokwahlukeneyo, kwakungekho nanye ye-Wild West-ngokoqobo-izahluko kunye neminqwazi-esiyibonileyo ixesha lokugqibela le ndlu ijikela kwithafa, ekujikeni kwenkulungwane yenkulungwane yengqokelela yezinxibo zabasetyhini ezazinxitywa nguMadonna kuye. “Ungandixeleli” ividiyo.
Ke ngaphandle kweMorricone kunye nenkungu enothuli iimodeli ezikhatywe kumgaqo weenqwelomoya, le ibiyingqokelela ehambelana nokuphindaphindwa kwangoku kwendoda yeDolce & Gabbana. Kwakukho umsebénzi waseSicily oshushu, ophelelwe lixesha, enxibe idyasi engaphezulu kunye nekepusi ecaba, okanye ngokumangalisayo enxibe iidyasi zokucheba ezitshayelayo emgangathweni, iibhulukhwe zokucheba ezikhumbulekayo, kunye neejoni eziluniwe ngeembambo. Kwakukho i-aficionado ephuculweyo yempahla yesitrato ephucukileyo yeli xesha yokucheba ukubila okuhonjiswe ngentliziyo engcwele yendlu kunye nezihlangu ze-Velcro zemonk-strap ezinoboya. Eyona nto ikhoyo kuzo zonke yayiyi-archetype ye-playboy princeling yamazwe ngamazwe, ehonjiswe ngehempe emhlophe efakwe kanye efakwe ngokuchanekileyo kunye nokuthungwa okumnyama okumenyezelayo ngokuhonjiswa okanye i-tonal jacquard. Kwisiphelo, abaqulunqi bahlambalaza i-silk day pyjamas, abanye behlangene kunye neentambo: Le mbonakalo, bathi, ibangela izitampu ezivenkileni, nazo.
I-Westernalia yayingeyiyo yodwa isinongo esifafazwe kule ngqokelela. Imihombiso efunjwe phezu kweedyasi ezingaphezulu kunye neebhatyi zelori—icandelo ledenim yayiyeyomntu onokuhlala ixesha elide—kuquka iirozi ezinetapestried kunye neputti. Ukubhuza ngokutsha yayiluphawu lwenyosi encinane kumatyathanga egolide, iziziba, kunye neepijama. Kwakukho iinguqulelo zaseNtshona zemizobo efanayo ye-faux-naif evela kumboniso wabayili bempahla yabasetyhini yamva nje-enye, kwi sweatshi, ebonisa uDomenico noStefano-kunye nemifanekiso ye-meme-tastic yaseZambia, ikati kaStefano. Kwakukho okuninzi okwenzekayo apha-iimodeli zazisebenzisa iipilisi ukuze ziphile-indawo yokujonga ividiyo ye-runway kwizikrini ezingaphezulu kwethu, kwakhona-kangokuba ngothuli ngamanye amaxesha kwakuvakala ngathi yi-peyote-fueled menswear mirage. Yahlula yonke, nangona kunjalo, kwaye into onayo yenye yezona zinto zibalaseleyo zokuthunga iimpahla kunye nempahla yangaphandle ye-extrovert kwishishini-kunye nezo pyjamas ze-D&G-pioneered (ngoku eziba ludidi lwazo zonke).