Jonga incwadi yokujonga yeRick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Paris.
Enesihloko esithi “Phlegethon,” emva komlambo womlilo otyhidiweyo awathi uDante watshayela abo bagwetyiweyo kwisangqa sesixhenxe, le ngqokelela yajongwa nguRick Owens kwindawo yakhe eVenice Lido. Ezantsi kwi-Zoom wabonakala efumile kwaye enganxibanga phezulu: “Ndisandula ukuphuma emanzini. Intle. Imnandi.”
Zombini e-Italiya naseFransi, uMfanekiso oMkhulu utshintshe kwicala elilungileyo emva kwexesha-usebenza phezulu, ungakhukuli ezantsi-kwaye oku kwaba, u-Owens wathi, yenye yezinto ezibe negalelo kutshintsho lwendlela ngequbuliso kusuku olungaphambi kwale vidiyo. intetho. Kungekudala emva kokuba ekhululwe "ekuvalelweni" u-Owens waya e-Italiya apho angenzanga enye kodwa iividiyo zengqokelela ezimbini. Eyokuqala yayiyeye "Performa," ingqokelela yokwindla ka-2020 ayibonisile ngoJanuwari kodwa usasazo lwakhe lwaluvaliwe. Okwesibini, kamva kancinane, yayiyeyolu ngqokelela, esele icwangcisiwe kakhulu. Iskimu sokuqala sika-Owens yayikukubonelela nge-“Performa” kwakhona kule Veki yeFashoni yedijithali.
Wacacisa: “Ngelo xesha kwakubonakala ngathi yinto yobulumko neyobubele nesengqiqweni nesengqiqweni. Ndacinga, ‘Ndingacofa ukuseta ngokutsha ndize ndiqalise ukwenza oku ukususela ngoku ukuya phambili.’ Ngoko elo yayilicebo lam. Kwaye ke izolo ekuseni ndiye ndatshintsha ingqondo yam ... kuba ngcono okanye kubi, umhlaba sele uqhele ukukwazi ukubona yonke into ngexesha elinye-umboniso wento ezayo kunye nemifanekiso yento ekhoyo ngoku. Isicwangciso sam bekuya kuba kukubonelela kuphela oko kukhoyo ngoku, kwaye ndingabinayo into ezayo. Kwaye emva komzuzwana yayizakuqala ukuziva isidala. Siqhele ukubona into entsha ephuma e-oveni. Kwaye andiqondi ukuba sinokubuyela umva. I-genie iphumile ebhotileni...isenokubonakala isengqiqweni, kodwa ngokweemvakalelo ayinangqondo.”
Iqela lika-Owens lisebenze ubusuku bonke phezolo-"Ndinike abantu bam isifo sentliziyo" - ukuhlela ividiyo oyibonayo apha ye-Owens ifanelekile kunye nesitayile sikaTyrone Dylan Susman kule ngqokelela entsha (kodwa i-auto-Owens reference). Ifomathi, ngakumbi xa ithelekiswa ne-epic yokutshayela i-Owens runway show, kukuba, u-Owens uvumile, ngokusondeleyo. Uthe: “Ukwenza into ebukekayo kunye nokujongana ngezikhondo zamehlo bekungeyonto ilungileyo ngoku…ke ndiye ndabonisa eyona ntshukumo sisebenza kuyo ingqokelela, endicinga ukuba yeyona nto inyanisekileyo endinokuthi ndiyifumane. ”
U-Owens wongeze ukuba ngelixa evalelwe kwi-cocoon yakhe yechibi, ebekhe wakroba kuyo: “Ndihlala ndithetha ngento eyenziwe nguBalmain. Umboniso enqanaweni. Bendicinga ukuba yeyona nto ithandekayo leyo. Kwakungeyonkcitho. Yayingumbongo. Yayinomtsalane. Bekumnandi. Kwaye into endiye ndayiqaphela xa ndibona ukuba inkampani efana ne-Balmain, okanye nabani na kuthi, phantse ukuba sinomsebenzi wokubonisa okona kulungileyo koko sinokukwenza ... Simele ukugqwesa. "
URick Owens
Ukubukela i-Owens kunye ne-Susman parlay phezu kwe-"Wish I Woz a Dog" ngu-Alien Sex Fiend, unokubona zombini ukugqwesa kunye nokuvela kule ngqokelela. "Yenye yezinto endizithandayo kakhulu," utshilo u-Owens njengoko belungiselela ukuba ibe yinkangeleko ye-19, ibhatyi engafakwanga neenkcukacha zegxalaba eziphenjelelwe luphando lwakhe kuLarry LeGaspi.
U-Owens uthe imiphezulu yetanki enesikhumba ephindwe kabini yayiyi-echoes yengqokelela ngo-2012, kwaye wongeze ukuba amaqhina kunye nempahla yokuqubha yayiziimpawu ezintsha ze-membrane T-shirt eyaphuhliswa kwingqokelela ka-2017 ethi “Ubumdaka.” UOwens wathi: “Andizange ndiyenze ngabom loo nto, kodwa yindlela eyavela ngayo. Ndiye ndajonga ngasemva ndasebenzisa okwam oovimba. Kuba ndandikule ngqondo yokuba asizukulahla izinto.” Ngencoko yabo, uSusman uye wancedisa ekuxonxeni inkcazo-ntetho yale ngqokelela, uphuhliso awathi uOwens walunikela: “Ndivumele abantu ukuba bangene kancinane kunokuba bendisenza ngaphambili. Ndinabantu abaninzi endiza kubabuza kwaye ndibamamele, abaluvo lwabo lunomdla kum…Kodwa kwangaxeshanye, ndiza kuba nomdla kwilizwi loyilo elilolwakho, hayi isigqibo sekomiti. Ukuzingca kwam kuphelele.”