Ukupakisha kwakhona ubuhle besiFrentshi kwizizukulwana ezikhulayo, uBruno Sialelli olungelelaniswe kakuhle wakudala, uvuthela ushicilelo lwe-Erté kunye nokubekwa kwizixhobo.
Abaqulunqi abaninzi abasebenza phantsi kotshixo bamkele ukubaleka, kubandakanya uBruno Sialelli kaLanvin, onyango lwakhe lwefashoni yayiluluhlu oluphakamileyo, olufakwe bubuhle. Ukupakisha kwakhona ubuhle besiFrentshi kwizizukulwana ezitsha, walungisa izinto zakudala ezintle: iisuti ezinesifuba esiphindwe kabini kwi-pastel ethambileyo, izikhafu ezisilika kunye neeblowusi ezineempapasho ze-Erté ezivuthelweyo, iilokhwe zepolka ezivuzayo kunye nempahla yangaphandle efana ne-cape.
Wagqiba ukujonga ngeeturbans, iiglavu, iindondo zelanga kunye neeseti zobucwebe begolide ezibalaseleyo ezineentyatyambo zentyatyambo. Owu, kunye neebhegi. Itsalwe kugcino lwamaxwebhu, ibhegi yepensile eyomeleleyo iyinto yobugcisa - enenkabi ene-arched njengesiphatho - eyilwe ngu-Armand-Albert Rateau kaJeanne Lanvin. Uphinde wavuselela ibhegi yeswekile engumqamelo esuka kwi-Aughts yokuqala.
Iinkangeleko zamadoda zaziphakanyiswe ngokulinganayo, kwaye ziphinde zajongwa kwakhona ngokucacileyo. Ijacket yesuti eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka yaba yihempe ye-V-neck, eyenziwe ngesikhafu. Ibhatyi emdaka, ye-suede yaba ziitoni ezimbini, kunye nokukhanya okutyheli kwi-cuffs kunye nekhola, ngelixa ihempe ekhanyayo yesilika yahluma ihood kunye nesinqe esitsala umtya.
Unoposi wasemaphandleni ogama linguFerdinand Cheval uchithe iminyaka engama-33 esakha imvelaphi engakholelekiyo yencwadi yokujonga iLanvin kunye nefilimu yeli xesha lonyaka. Ukusondeza, umyili uBruno Sialelli uthe utsalelekile eLe Palais Idéal, kufutshane neLyon, ngokuyinxenye ngenxa yokuba wayengazange abekho ngaphambili kwaye wayefuna ukuyibona, kwaye ngokuyinxenye ngenxa yokuba uCheval, owayenzayo, "wayeyindoda engenambono. yezokwakha, owakha eli bhotwe limangalisayo ngesandla, ukuxuba kwiimbekiselo ezingaqhelekanga kakhulu, kwaye inika umdla kakhulu njengomyili wokudala ukujonga oku. Kuba ngamanye amaxesha, indlela endisebenza ngayo, ndiye ndidibanise iimbekiselo kungekhona ngobukrelekrele kodwa ngendlela emalunga nokunxulumanisa izinto ezikunika loo nto ufuna ukuyithetha.”
Apha into awayefuna ukuyithetha uSialelli yayiyinxalenye yovuselelo lweshumi leminyaka apho indlu kaLanvin yahamba ngokwenene, ngeminyaka yoo-1920. Uye wasebenzisana nelifa lomzobi we-Art Deco u-Erté ukuze aquke eminye yemifanekiso yakhe ezinzileyo kushicilelo lwesilika, iibhegi, iminqwazi yeturban, ihempe yamadoda, kunye nekhephu ethandelwe ngesikhumba.
Ukhupho luphawule ukuba amaqhosha aye arhangqwa ukuze afane nebhotile ye-Lanvin yesiqhumiso eyilwe ngo-1927. Ngalo lonke eli Sialelli wamisa umxholo obanzi weereferensi, uninzi lwemiboniso bhanyabhanya, ukuvuselela ngempumelelo indibano emnandi yento ayibiza ngokuba “yindlela yokuphila ephantse yangabikho nakuphi na. Kaninzi." Ngale nto wayethetha ukuba incasa yokungcamla engakhathaliyo kunye neendlela zokuba mhle kwaye ingqiqo ingabi krwada: "kuba siza kuphinda sibe ntle nini kwaye njani?"
Lo ngumbuzo osebenzayo, kwaye ngeminyaka yee-1920s kukho ungqamaniso lokutyatyamba kukaLanvin-umzekelo wokubukeka okukhawulezayo kunye nokuvuselelwa kwe-hedonistic emva kwemfazwe kunye nendyikitya yokufa. U-Sialelli unethemba lokuba xa ixesha lifika, iminqweno yabantu iya kuphinda ihambe ngenqanawa kwicala likaLanvin.
ULanvin ulungele ukuNxitywa ekwindla/ebusika ngo-2020 eParis