PARIS, JANUWARI 20, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
"Ngokwenene imalunga nokujonga into yobudoda, ezinzileyo, eyomeleleyo, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha ithanda inkanuko." UChristophe Lemaire's précis of this collection unokusebenza kuyo yonke iprojekthi yeLemaire. Namhlanje ukutswina kwerabha yomoya yeempompo zakhe ezityibilikisiweyo zaseTshayina kumgangatho webhastile kwindawo yakhe yaseParis ifanekisela kakuhle iqela leempahla ezixube iikhowudi eziphakamileyo nezisezantsi zibe ziphelele ezingenamithungo.
I-silhouette yokuthunga kwakhe yonke into ibonakala kuboya obulukiweyo obuqinileyo buvumelana naleyo yeNtwasahlobo '16: iibhatyi ezingafakwanga, ezinamagxa athambileyo ngaphezulu kweebhulukhwe ezibanzi zisikwe nje iimilimitha ngaphezulu kwesithende sezo mpompo. Idyasi ye-tweed yase-Shetland edityaniswe i-oat-y rusticity kunye nobunewunewu obuyilwe ngokubukhali ngokuzibamba. Iihempe zomsebenzi kumxube we-silika-cotton zikhazimle ngokukhazimla okunekhrim okugxininiswe ngamaqhekeza e-denim ahlala efakwe ngawo; Ihempe ethambileyo yeflaneli kaLemaire yayingumntwana osebenza nzima, kodwa kancinci. I-ayini e-ayiniweyo kwibhulukhwe yakhe yejinja yejinja ephezulu esinqeni-ijeans ayinqunyulwanga kwaphela-yayiyinkcukacha ethandekayo ekhawulezayo. Ibhatyi ye-duffle engena hood kunye nebhatyi yedonki ephothiweyo kuboya obunavy, kunye nedyasi yoboya ebukeka njenge-shearling kumbala wekofu emdaka, zithwalwe yintsebenziswano noGloverall, inkampani yaseBhritane yempahla yangaphandle ethe yaduma. the duffle: Zontathu ezidityanisiweyo ubuhle kunye buttchness. Iibhulukhwe ezimhlophe ezinomphetho ophakamileyo phezu kweebhutsi ezimnyama ezimenyezelayo zivakala ngathi zi-semi-literal homage torue-lurking mecs ezidlulileyo-ngokusisiseko, yinto yesiFrentshi-kodwa yonke enye into apha ibithandeka, ithandeka, ithandeka.