NguKatya Foreman
Iziketi zamadoda ziye zayinto eqhelekileyo kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya, kodwa azizange zihluzwe ngokwenene kubomi bokwenyani. Kodwa njengoko imeko yesini-i-fluid iqhubeka i-crescendo, u-Thom Browne wenze ingxabano eqinisekisayo ngekamva elinokwenzeka elingekho kude kakhulu apho amadoda aya kuthi ajike aye eofisini - i-briefcase esandleni - kwi-skirtsuit yakudala, izithende zikaRichelieu kunye neekawusi zoshishino.
"Uqala indlela enye uselusana, kodwa kutheni ungakhe ukwazi ukukhetha indlela yakho ngokuchasene nabantu benkcubeko abakuxelela indlela omawuhambe ngayo? Imalunga nokuba nengqondo evulekileyo ukuze ube namava obomi ngendlela obufuna ngayo, ”utshilo umyili ngasemva kweqonga.
UBrown wakhetha intendelezo yeglasi yePalais des Études ye-École des Beaux-Arts njengendawo yomboniso, kunye nesamente yayo yemifanekiso eqingqiweyo yamandulo yaseRoma kunye nophahla lwentsimbi kunye nophahla lwentsimbi. Ingoma yayo evuselelayo yayiyi "Maze," eyenziwe ngumqambi uDavid Motion kunye nomlawuli uSally Potter kwifilimu yakhe yowe-1992 eguqulelwe kwinoveli kaVirginia Woolf, "Orlando," edlala noTilda Swinton njengendoda ehloniphekileyo enesini.
Thom Browne Menswear Spring Summer 2018 Paris
Kwaphuma imodeli enxibe iibhatyi zesuti, iziketi kunye nezihlangu, nganye inqumama okomzuzwana ukuze ijonge ngebhastile kunye nekhabhathi yeglasi ehlala izihlangu zomntwana zegolide. (Isibini sikaRichelieus esisagolide sahlala kwikhabhathi ekupheleni komgaqo weenqwelo-moya.)
U-Browne uyathanda ukubethelela umyalezo wakhe ekhaya, apha ethumela i-smorgasbord engapheliyo yejacket yesuti kunye ne-skirt pairings edlala ngokugqithisileyo kunye nokuxuba amalaphu emveli, kwingqokelela ethumele umxube wentombazana yesikolo / inkwenkwe yesikolo kunye nebhanki. (Isiketi esifutshane esicekethekileyo sijongeka sinyulu nguBritney Spears.)
Imibhinqo yasuka kwiziketi ze-seersucker kunye neebhatyi ezincanciweyo ezinebreast enye ukuya kwisinxibo esidibanisa isiketi esimpunga eside kunye neblazer yasemanzini enqamlezileyo eprintwe ngeedachshunds zegolide. Kwakukho nelokhwe engaqhelekanga, kubandakanya nenye yelaphu lokuthunga elingwevu elityikityiweyo elineempawu zeflegi yaseMelika, ezinemisila yehempe emide eyolulela ngaphantsi kwenkangeleko eninzi.
Ukuba bekukho umzuzu wokuhlekisa, ibingumakoti nomyeni wokuvala umboniso, indoda engatshatanga enxibe isinxibo edibanisa ituksi emnyama eshwabeneyo ngaphambili nelokhwe yomtshakazi emhlophe ngasemva.
Ebuzwa ukuba ngaba zonke iziketi ziya kwenza ingqokelela yezorhwebo, uBrown, owakhupha isiketi sakhe “uphume ngasemva,” wathi: “Yonke into iyanikezelwa. Ndicinga ukuba ikhangeleka imangalisa, ayingomntu wonke, kodwa ukuba bendinokubona umntu ehamba esitratweni enokuthi ndifune ukwazi ukuba ngubani lo mntu. "