PARIS, JANUWARI 22, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
Ukuchitha imizuzu engama-20 kwigumbi lodwa kunye nomyili ethetha ngengqokelela yakhe endaweni yemizuzu esibhozo ukubukela kwisihlwele ngaphambi kokuba aleqe ucango kunokuba nzima kakhulu. Kuba kufuneka ifunxe, iqine, yenze ntoni? Ebusweni bakhe, ewe, yibize “inika umdla” okanye “uyigqibile!”—uze uleqe ucango uze ulungise isazela sakho usebenzisa ikhibhodi. Phillip Lim waya showroom kweli xesha. Akukho nto imbi ifunwayo: ibilungile. Nangona laa cap yesikhumba kaMarlon Brando, eyakhe iLim, yaziva isongezo esingalunganga kumfanekiso wokudubula.
“Ungayinxiba le nto?” umyili wabuza, ephakamise idyasi yasendle ngaphambili kwi-houndstooth, efakwe umnatha, kwaye ixhaswe ngomfanekiso okrotshisiweyo wobuhle bokuhlamba obu-Ukiyo-e. Impendulo "yayiqinisekile" - kunye ne-caveat ukuba iya kuba yinguqulelo eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kunye neepokotho ezikhutshiweyo. U-Lim wayekhathazeke kakhulu ngokunika umsebenzi wakhe umxholo. Ngobumnandi, wayengenise eyakhe isihlalo sothando saseDanish esakhiwe ngokutsha ngengwe eprintiweyo evela eNew York, kunye netafile esecaleni yehambhega kunye nomqamelo otyhutyhayo wetyhula oqatywe ngeVinyl ebomvu ekhangeleka ngathi ayilunganga-wanika ingxelo yokuba amasiko amaFrentshi ayengene kuwo. luvavanyo lwangaphakathi olude. Kwakukho nentlanzi yegolide, isiFrentshi, kwitafile yekofu ye-Lim mise-en-scène (wayinika enye yeemodeli zokumnceda aqalise iprofayili yentlalontle emva komboniso).
Inkangeleko inika igumbi, kwaye ezo ziboniswe kule zibandakanya amaqhekeza amakhulu. Ihempe-yebhayisekile yebhayisekile engumxube yayisisiseko esiqaqambileyo somaleko. Imilo yehempe eqhelekileyo ithi lowo uyinxibileyo yiloo nto; oku kwenze umsebenzi ofanayo ngomphetho olula ukuwuqonda. Ezo zazigqalwa njengeebhatyi zasemasimini zemishmash zazithandeka. Ezinye iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zebhasikithi ezinemibhobho zesilika (kunye nebhatyi ehambelanayo yesikhumbuzo) ezinokujikwa zibe bubuhle boshicilelo lwengwe zinomtsalane owanelisayo wenkanuko yenyama kubo. Iidyasi zemoto zoboya obunamachokoza kunye needyasi zejacquard zamahlosi zaziqina ngakumbi ngenye indlela okanye enye. Iibhulukhwe zoboya zikaLim, ijumpsuit yepijama ephathwayo ye-poplin, idyasi yeengwe ezinayiloni, kunye nesuti yenqwelomoya eneziphu eziluhlaza zonke bezizihlanganisela ngokwahlukileyo kulwahlulo olwahlukeneyo, olusekwe kwizinto eziluncedo, ezihombise ngobuhenyukazi obuthi uLim, ifenitshala kunye nazo zonke, ezibonisa.