PARIS, JANUWARI 24, 2016
nguLUKE LEITCH
UMhlekazi uPaul Smith umiswa rhoqo kwisitrato saseLondon nangaphaya ngamadoda ambulelayo ngeesuti abatshatele kuzo. Iinkulumbuso kunye neenkwenkwezi ze-rock ngokufanayo zingena kwiimpahla ezigxininiswe ngegama lakhe xa zifuna ukuchukumisa: Ihlelo likaSmith. libandla elibanzi.
Kungenxa yoko le nto, ngenxa yokulawula, kuye kwafuneka alungelelanise ixesha kunye nocwangciso lweentshumayelo zakhe kancinci-ngokudibanisa ezisixhenxe zeengqokelela zakhe zamadoda nabafazi zibe zimbini. “Indlela ebesabela ngayo ibiyothusa,” utshilo umva namhlanje: “Siyilungelelanise ngokutsha istudiyo sonke, kwaye sikwindawo ephezulu.
Mhlawumbi kungenxa yokuba uSmith ngoku ucinezela izindululo zosasazo ezazifudula zichazwa ngokwahlukileyo-ezifanelekileyo, ziqhelekile ngakumbi, kunye nefashoni-phantsi kweflegi enye, kodwa ingqokelela yanamhlanje ngamanye amaxesha ibiziva iphantse yanoxinzelelo lokuyibukela. Yayiyimvakalelo eyonyuswe yinto yokuba iimodeli zeza kuwe zivela kumacala amabini ngaxeshanye, ukuya kwisandi esixubeneyo esixubeneyo, esifana nomdlali ogcinwe kakuhle weMP3 esetelwe ngokungakhethiyo kwi-hyper-speed-nangona "Nyathela" yi. NgoMvulo owonwabileyo kwaye "Yizani Ndawonye" yiBeatles ivakala ilungile xa idlalwa ngaxeshanye.
Noko ke, emva kokucamngca ngasemva kweqonga, kwakukho imvisiswano eyayifumaneka kwincoko. Iidyasi kunye neebhulukhwe zikaSmith ezinemigca ethe nkqo yejacquard engaphambili yayine-oomph, kunye nengubo yakhe yangaphezulu enemibala emxinwa enekhola emxinwa yokucheba ngasemva nangakumbi. Iimilo zebhulukhwe zikhatywe ukusuka kwidangatye eliphantsi ukuya kumcutha isityalo esiphakamileyo (kungcono ukudanyazisa ibhuthi). Kwakukho ubuninzi bokulungelelaniswa okungekho sikweni zii-zip-ups ezinemibala ehlabayo. Iembroideries ze-Eccentric ziquka i-curled outline yeenyembezi ze-paisley kwi-suiting kunye ne-denim ehlanjiweyo, kunye ne-dinosaur ezikhupha amazinyo kwi-shirting kunye nokunitha. Njengoko kwenzeka kunqabile kuphela kwimpahla yamadoda, iimpahla zibukeka ngcono kule galari kunokuba zivele enyameni: Ifomathi apha yayingathi uziva ngathi unephanyazo nje ukubona phambi kokuba kufike into eyahlukileyo ngokupheleleyo. Kuyi-gripe encinci, nangona kunjalo. UMhlekazi uPaul akazukuyeka ukukhangwa ngabathengi abonwabileyo esitratweni nangaliphi na ixesha kungekudala.