PARIS, JANUWARI 24, 2016
ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
I-Nostalgia yinto enamandla, njengoko eli xesha lonyaka libonakalisile. Ukuba abantu bebengayigxeki, bebeyibhengeza njengenkuthazo yabo elandelayo. Ukukhunjulwa kwezinto ezidlulileyo kunotsalo olunamandla kwifashoni, apho ukuvuselelwa kwamashumi eminyaka adlulileyo zihlala zijikeleza kwizangqa ezihlala zincipha. Ngenzeka, uYves Saint Laurent wayethanda kancinci iProust-kukho imeko kaLouis Vuitton eyenziwe ngokukodwa ukuba ithwale imiqulu yakhe ngoku eboniswe eGrand Palais, kumboniso onikezelwe kwimbali yembali yolo hlobo. Vuitton, ndiyathetha; nangona kukho imyuziyam yaseSaint Laurent phezulu nje kwerue.
Amandla okukhumbula yayilimbono uThom Browne awayiphononongayo: Umboniso wakhe wokuwa, wathi, malunga nabafana abali-13 abaphinda bajonga iklabhu yabo yamadoda angama-30 kwiminyaka eyadlulayo, mhlawumbi ngokwasemzimbeni, ngokuqinisekileyo ngokungathandekiyo. Yiyo loo nto isinxibo ngasinye savela kwi-triptych: eyokuqala ngamadlavu; emva koko inqanaba lokukhanya lokubandezeleka; ekugqibeleni, ilungile. Nganye ibonise ukwahluka kwimpahla yakudala yamadoda-iidyasi zomsila, iidyasi zomkhosi, ii-chesterfields ezilungiswe ngoboya-kwaye yayithweswe umnqwazi webhola ephothiweyo ebusweni. Yayingeyonkqubo yokuqhekeka, kodwa yokuzalwa ngokutsha, ukubuyela kuzuko lwangaphambili. Ekuqaleni, iimodeli ezimbini zabetha amashiti othuli kwisinxibo seklabhu yamakhwenkwe amadala, kubandakanya i-chandelier enkulu, izitulo ezinamaphiko, kunye neshumi elinesibini lezakhelo ezihonjisiweyo zombhaki.
Kwi-À la Recherche du Temps Perdu, i-Proust iwela ekuxhwilweni ngenxa yeenkumbulo ezivezwe yi-madeleine eneti. Kwakukho ukutya okuninzi okucingayo okufanayo kumboniso kaBrowne: iinkumbulo ezinganyanzelekanga-iingcamango zikhutshwe ngokungenzeki, kodwa ezihlala zinamandla. Njengoko iimodeli zithatha indawo yazo, i-original egqibeleleyo ejongene ne-duo ye-counterfeits "engafezekanga", kwakulula ukubona i-shades ye-Dorian Grey-kungekhona nje ngenxa yombala woboya obuthandayo bukaBrown. Ezo modeli zikhohlakeleyo zinokuba ngumfanekiso wakhe onamafutha, onkanuko yakhe yolutsha ibonakalisa inkqubo yefashoni. Ngaba asinyanzelwanga sonke ukuba sibone ukubola kwethu kule mihla? Kwaye alikho ixesha into enye nabona bazizityebi abanakuthenga? Asikwazi ukuyibuyisela umva, ngokuqinisekileyo. Ixesha laliyinto yokuthanda umzobi uRené Magritte, kwaye kwakukho i-echoes engathandabuzekiyo yomsebenzi wakhe kwiminqwazi ye-masking bowler, ukuphindaphinda, iifreyimu ezingenanto.
Ixesha yinto abasoloko beyichaza njengobunewunewu bokwenyani, ngakumbi kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo, xa iye yaxabiseka ngakumbi nangakumbi. Kwathatha ixesha elininzi ukwenza ezi mpahla, nazo, ezazinobunewunewu ngokungathandabuzekiyo. Okunye ukurhwatshazwa, unxunguphalo, kunye nokukrazula ngabom ngokungathandabuzekiyo kwenza abangafezekanga bafuneke kakhulu - bagqibelele ngakumbi - kunempahla engenasiphako. "Ngamanye amaxesha intle ngakumbi," wacaphula uBrown, weeperile ezikhululekileyo ezihonjiswe kwi-cape emfutshane kunye nejethi ehonjiswe ngetailcoat.
Uphinde wakhumbula ukubaleka kwamaxesha amandulo, xa abaqulunqi bebephume ngenene ukuya kwiqonga lomboniso, ukuvuselela ibali ngeengubo zabo. Akukho maninzi ashiyekileyo kweso sikolo sidala. Mhlawumbi amaxesha atshintshile; okanye mhlawumbi abayili abananto ingako yokuthetha, okanye ixesha lokuyithetha, kwinkqubo ekhawulezileyo yomgaqo weenqwelo-moya wangoku. UThom Browne wenza iqonga lomboniso ngexesha ngalinye lempahla yamadoda; ubonisa ingqokelela yangaphambi kokuwa kwaye ubonisa izinxibo zabasetyhini kwiiveki nje ezimbini. Ngokungathandabuzekiyo ixesha lisengqondweni yakhe.
Ifashoni elungileyo inokuthetha kumanqanaba amaninzi. I-Ramble malunga no-Oscar Wilde kunye noProust kunye noBrown banokuqhwanyaza ngokungenanto (wenzile kum). Kwisiseko sawo, lo mboniso wawumalunga nendlela yokuyila yokubonisa iimpahla ezibandakanyayo, ezenziwe kakuhle, kodwa ezinentsingiselo efihlakeleyo ebethelelwe kumthungo ngamnye. Enye into onokuthi ube nostalgic phezu kwayo, xa ukhumbula imiboniso yefashoni edlulileyo.