Ifashoni, wathi umalathisi wobugcisa uFrancesco Risso, “imalunga ‘nathi.’ Wayicacisa loo ngongoma ngevidiyo ebonisa abahlobo abangaphezu kwama-40 efotwe kwizixeko ezili-12 emhlabeni wonke, ukususela eShanghai ukusa eGrand Island, eNeb.
I-MARNIFESTO yingqokelela entsha ye-Creative Director Francesco Risso for Spring/Summer 2021 bacela abantu abangama-48 abavela kwihlabathi liphela ukuba baphile ubomi babo kwiimpahla zaseMarni.
Ngelixa befotwa kwaye befotwa ngabahlobo babo, usapho kunye nabathandi. Indawo nokuba yintoni na. Ukusuka eDakar ukuya eTokyo, ukusuka eMilan ukuya eNew York. Umboniso ngawo onke amabali abo.
Ifashoni “ayithethanga ‘mna’; imalunga ‘nathi.’” Watsho njalo uFrancesco Risso kaMarni ebudeni bomboniso wengqokelela yakhe yasentwasahlobo. Ngeli xesha lingaqhelekanga, uRisso wakhetha ukushiya inkuthazo yemveli-akukho mhlaba okanye enye imbono yangaphambili. Endaweni yoko, ugxininise kwingcinga yokuba ifashoni yokwenyani ithatha iingcambu kwingqokelela yabantu ababandakanyekayo ekufezekisweni kwayo - abo bayidalayo kunye nabo bayinxibayo. Wayenentsholongwane yombono wangaphambi kwe-COVID-19, kwaye yathatha amandla amakhulu njengoko ubhubhane watshintsha ubomi bethu kunye nehlabathi.
Ukwenza ingongoma yakhe, uRisso ucwangcise umboniso wevidiyo osondeleyo, onomdla: i-livestream eya kudibanisa amabali abantu abangaphezu kwe-40 kwizixeko ezininzi emhlabeni jikelele, abanye balindelekile, abanye bengekho: Asheville, N.C.; eDakar, eSenegal; eDetroit; eGrand Island, eNeb.; eLondon; Ilos Angeles; eMilan; Inew York; eParis; ePhiladelphia; eShanghai, naseTokyo. “Ayizomodeli kodwa ngabantu.…Ayiyondawo, kodwa lihlabathi,” utshilo amanqaku omboniso wakhe. Kwakukho umda omninzi wempazamo, xa kujongwa i-mélange yomboniso wehlabathi kunye nenyaniso yokuba umboniso wenziwe, ifilimu ithi, "usapho / abahlobo abaneekhamera." URisso kunye neqela lakhe bayitsale kakuhle.
Ngoku, kwakungekho kanye njengoko umyili echazwe kwi-preview. Ubhekiselele kwisiganeko esiqhubekayo, kwaye wathi abangengabo-imodeli-kodwa-abantu-bathunyelwa iimpahla ukuba babe nendlela yabo kunye nabo. Ewe kwaye hayi. Amacandelo evidiyo ayenziwe ngaphambili, kwaye iikhredithi zokugqibela ziphawula inxaxheba ye-AAA-uluhlu lwe-stylist uCamilla Nickerson.
Noba kutheni. Ingongoma iyavakala: Ifashoni ayikho malunga nempahla kuphela. Imalunga nobomi kunye nazo zonke iimvakalelo kunye nezinto ezibandakanyekayo kuzo. Sibona iimpahla - okanye ngokuchanekileyo, abantu abanxibe iimpahla - kwiimeko ezininzi zobomi bokwenyani: kwindlela engaphantsi komhlaba, kwivenkile yokutya, baqhelisela i-cello, bepeyinta umzobo.
ZILUKWE KUNYE PHILA
Ividiyo yakhiwe ngobuchule ukuya kwisiphelo esisebenza njengomgaqo weenqwelomoya omncinci. Umntu ngamnye ukhethe indawo yokuhamba kwaye waboniswa ividiyo apho, evumela ababukeli ukuba bajonge entloko kwiimpahla. Kuninzi okufuneka uthabathe. Imizobo esebenzayo efana negraffiti evela kwiprojekthi yangaphakathi yokubhala imibongo. Imivimbo yokuqina okuphezulu kumnyama, obomvu nomhlophe. Amanitha anxungupheleyo. Iimaleko ezidityanisiweyo. Imiqulu yeskirt ephumayo ukuya phaya. Uninzi lwayo luyanyanzelisa, lubonisa ubugcisa obugqithileyo kwisiphumo esinomtsalane, ukuba siyathandabuza. Kwaye ixutywe, amaxesha anqabileyo okuzola: isuti emhlophe yedenim; idyasi ecande ngokuthe nkqo emnyama namhlophe ngaphezulu komntla onqunquliweyo kunye nesiketi, i-chic ngokwengqiqo yesintu.
Phantse abakhe banxitywa ngamalungu aphosiweyo: iimaski, intswelo yabo ibhalisa kuphela emva kokuba umntu eyifakile. Ke, ukunqongophala kweemaski kukubetha njengokungaqhelekanga, kunikwe isiseko sokubamba ubomi bokwenyani ngexesha lokwenyani.
Loo caveat ibalulekileyo ecaleni, "iingxelo" ezahlukeneyo zeRisso's cast zenza impikiswano eqinileyo malunga nokuba semthethweni kunye nokubaluleka kwefashoni. Njengoko iimpahla zingaphezulu-phezulu, abantu abazinxibileyo bazenza ezabo ngokukholelwayo, kwaye ke ngoko, itelegraph yokunxiba ngendlela yokwenyani iyavakala kubomi bemihla ngemihla.
Yintoni engekhoyo: Nayiphi na ingqiqo yokuba ukwenza njalo kuyawuphakamisa umoya. Ngelixa abaqulunqi abaninzi bedlala kwingcinga yokuba ngamaxesha abolileyo ifashoni inokwenza indima yayo kwi-psyche, uRisso akenzi imeko enjalo apha. Ewe, kukho uncumo olumbalwa kunye nokuhleka okanye ezimbini, kodwa ngokubanzi, akukho mqondo wokuba abantu abakwividiyo bafumana naluphi na ulonwabo kwimpahla yabo enesibindi, eguqukayo, nefuna ingqalelo. Ezi ayizompahla ezingenamsebenzi. Kwaye ukuba uya kwenza umgudu, akufanele iimpahla zizise uvuyo oluncinane?
MRNIFESTO:
UMlawuli woBuchule: Francesco Risso @asliceofbambi
UMlawuli woBugcisa: @babakradboy
UMlawuli weVidiyo: @talrosner
Isimbo: #camillanickerson@artpartner
Ukusasazwa: @midlandagency
Imveliso: @kennedyldn