“Iqala kwindawo apho besikhe sabakhona ngaxa lithile, sonke, ezingqondweni zethu. Akunjalo ngokoqobo, ngokwasemzimbeni, kuba sonke sazenzela ulwakhiwo lwethu lwale ndawo kunye neemvakalelo. Kwaye ke kancinci kancinci iyatshintshwa njengoko sifumanisa, kwaye siyakhululeka, de sikhululeke-kwaye ke iphele ngesidlo sangokuhlwa esihle. "
Ke u-Alessandro Sartori uchaze ifilimu yengqokelela yasentwasahlobo ka-Ermenegildo Zegna, ibali le-EDM elifikeleleke kwi-metaphysical bhubhane elithathe imifuziselo yalo ukusuka kwi-Shining-esque discombobulation yokuba uvaleleke wedwa kwi-maze yaseTurin ngobusuku ukuya kwi-Truman Show surreality yabahlobo abahamba phezu kwamanzi. isidlo sangokuhlwa esihlangeneyo eMilan-phambi kokuba nguJohn Malkovich / Ukukhanya kwelanga okuPhakade i-OTSM yenza-I-even-happen-happen twist.
Ewe yenzekile, kwaye isenjalo, nangona uSartori ecinga ngokungekho sikweni ukuba le iya kuba yingqokelela ye-100% yokugqibela ye-EZ. "Nangona kunjalo, ngokuqinisekileyo ndifuna ukugcina eminye yemiba yedijithali esiyifumene kulo nyaka uphelileyo okanye kunjalo, kwaye siyidibanise nomzimba obuyiselweyo ukongeza kububanzi bokubaliswa kwamabali."
Okokubaliswa kwamabali kuyilelwe ukuhambisa isitshixo seZegna esithathwe kwiinyanga ezili-18 zekhefu, indawo yokuthatha nayo echazwe kule ngqokelela.
Umbono kukukrola imodeli entsha yenqanaba eliphezulu leengubo zamadoda ezithatha yonke into yobuchwephesha, ingcaphephe, kunye nobuchwephesha ukusuka Phambi ngaphandle kokubonwa kubuhle bayo ngoku naPhambili: ukulungelelanisa imodeli yemodeli ye-sartorial, gcina ubugcisa kunye nobugcisa. ulwazi lokwakha, ngelixa ukwala imithetho eqikelelweyo yefomu ye-sartorial ukuze uqhubele phambili kwi-aping ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-19 ukuze ubonakalise ezo zenkulungwane yama-21.
Yibize ngokuthunga i-post-sartorial.
Njengoko u-Sartori ebeka: "i-craft ihambe ngokupheleleyo ukusuka kwiifom zokuthunga eziqhelekileyo ukuya kwezi ndlela zintsha. Ngokwenyani, sakha indawo entsha eNovara yokwakhiwa kwazo zonke ezi bhatyi neesuti zintsha kunye nezinye iimpahla esiziyilayo. "
Iimodeli ezikwimuvi-ezinye zazo zabasetyhini zinxibe ubungakanani-phantsi obuchanekileyo beempahla zamadoda-zambethe iziqwenga ngemibala eyahlukeneyo, izixhobo, kunye noyilo olwalusenziwe ukuba lutshintshe kwaye ludityaniswe (njenge-trad gents ethunga ikhabethe) kodwa ngobuhle obusulungekiswe ngokwenyani.
Iibhatyi zekimono ezinesiqingatha ezineebhanti zangaphakathi, iibhatyi zeempahla zokusebenza ezimpokotho ezinzulu, iiblowuni ezifakelweyo, okanye iibhatyi ezinde nezinerhasi zeza ngokwahlukeneyo kwisilika ephothiweyo okanye ngesikhumba sethole, okanye uboya obuhlaziyiweyo beTrivero okanye umqhaphu, okanye ikhangaru, ilinen, ihempe, okanye ngaphezulu, kwaye yakhiwe kusetyenziswa ubuchule be-sartorial (ukukhangela ezipokothweni, imikhono yeraglan).
Ezinye iziqwenga zazilukwe kwijacquard yoboya ebukekayo, kodwa uninzi luxhomekeke kwimatte okanye ukuqaqamba kwelaphu lokubhena kwamehlo. Imibala yayiqala kumnyama, umnquma, ivanilla, kunye navy ukuya kumbala oluhlaza nopinki.
Ezantsi kweebhatyi kwakukho imilo yebhulukhwe emilenze ebanzi phantse ngokungaguquguqukiyo enemilenze ebanzi kunye nerabha yonyango ukunqanda ukonakala kwimiqukumbelo, eyayinxitywa phezu kwezihlangu ezibunjiweyo ze-slingback kunye neebhutsi zechukka ezibunjiweyo. Izinto ezincedisayo ziquka iisatchels zokusebenza zekhangaru ezinemibala ehambelanayo kunye neendondo zelanga ezineefestile ezincinci zokhuselo lwe-1970s ezijinga ngaphantsi kwetempile nganye.
“Ukusetyenziswa kwemathiriyeli kuya kuba nzulu ngakumbi, kwaye ukuqhubeka nenkqubo yokusetyenziswa kwakhona kusizisa kwiintsinga ebesingazicingelanga ngaphambili, njengehemp kunye nesilika. Ugxininiso kukusebenza ngale ndlela yemodyuli, ukucinga ixesha lonyaka ngalinye hayi into ongenayo kodwa into onayo, kwaye emva koko ungayandisa njani ngaphandle kokulahla nantoni na kodwa ukuze ukwandise ukhetho lwakho kunye nokhetho. Isiseko sayo yonke into, ndicinga ukuba, intuthuzelo iye yaba ngundoqo. ”
Sartori
Ukuphuma kwi-maze ngembono entsha kwicala, kuya kuba ngumdla ukubona ukuba i-EZ's ubuhle obuyilwe ngokutsha buya kuchuma ngokungcoliseka okubanzi kuyo yonke i-ecosystem yempahla yamadoda: akukho sizathu sokuba kungafuneki, kwaye sonke isizathu sokuba ibe njalo.