Kwingqokelela yeGiorgio Armani Menswear Spring 2022 eMilan, isuti ihlaziywa ngokwemilo yayo, iphakamisa umbono wokulungelelaniswa phezulu nasezantsi: ihempe yangokuhlwa enekhola yokuma okanye ijacket ye-denim-efana nejacket edityaniswe nebhulukhwe enedayi ezenziwe ngaphakathi. uboya obufanayo be-pinstripe, okanye i-gilet-jacket ene-Bermuda shorts.
Ingqokelela ifakwe ingqiqo ethile yokukhanya: izinto ezingenabunzima, iimilo eziphulula umzimba ngolwelo, isimo sengqondo esizolileyo nesingenamdla. Indlela yezemidlalo yokunxiba-eguqukayo, ekhululekile kwaye enesibindi-eyenziwe ngokhetho lwethuku kunye nolubalulekileyo kunye nemibala esuka eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ukuya kwi-sandy hues kunye ne-chalk emhlophe, kunye neepopu ezibomvu kunye eziluhlaza ezikhumbuza ihlabathi lendalo - zihlala zihambelana, kunjalo.
Ku-Giorgio Armani, ukusetha kwakhona okukhulu kuye kwenza impembelelo enkulu. “Mna ngokobuqu, ndiye ndafunda ukunandipha izinto ngakumbi nokusebenza imihla ngemihla, ndingacebi kusengaphambili okanye ndingacinezeli kakhulu. Kwaye kufuneka ndivume, ibisempilweni kakhulu kum, ”ubhale nge-imeyile phambi komboniso wakhe wokuqala nabaphulaphuli ukusukela ngoFebruwari 2020.
Lawo yayingamagama abalulekileyo okwaziyo ukuzilawula, kwaye intshukumisa esiyibonileyo kwiArmani kulo nyaka uphelileyo ibe ngumbala omhle kuye. Le ngqokelela yayikwanjalo.
Kunokuba abuyele apho wayeyeke khona-i-monolithic HQ Teatro ehlala abantu abangama-800-umeme abantu abangama-80 kuphela apho yaqala khona: ikhaya lakhe (kunye nekomkhulu langaphambili) kwi-Via Borgonuovo 21, apho eminye yeyona miboniso yakhe idumileyo yathatha. indawo. Uyazi ukuba kwakubalulekile kuye kuba wayenyamezele abakhi abamiselweyo kunye nesandi sokuziqhelanisa nokungena kwi-idyll yakhe yasekhaya iiveki ezimbini ezikhokelela kuyo. Emuva emini, u-Armani wayeza kubamba imiboniso kwigumbi le-palazzo elingaphantsi komhlaba, iplani yangethuba yeTeatro enezihlalo ezingama-300 kunye nequla lokuqubha elinomzila omnye osecaleni kwasekuseni.
Kwigadi yaseJapan eyakhiwe kwintendelezo, umgama omde ukusuka kumzobo kaSilvio Pasotti weArmani engenasihempe engafiyo ecaleni kwabantu benkulungwane yama-20 (uYves Saint Laurent, uKarl Lagerfeld, uLiza Minelli), ubonise ukuba ingqondo yakhe edistilled ithetha ntoni kwiwodrophu yaseArmani: efihlakeleyo, ethambileyo, ephucukileyo, kwaye kancinci kancinci.
Ebonisa ingqokelela kwisamente yemodeli eziva isiyalele ngakumbi kunesiqhelo, wayilungisa i-silhouette yakhe esesikweni kwaye wakhulula imigca ebukhali ngemvo yendlela ‘isinxibo semidlalo’ esikhangeleka ngayo ngaphambi kwenkulungwane yaphakathi. Mhlawumbi loo nto ikhangeleka njani impahla yaseburhulumenteni kwi-21st?
Ukuba nengqondo kwakuqhelekileyo ngaphandle kokuwela kummandla wamavila. "Isimo sengqondo sisonke silula kakhulu, kuba ndicinga ukuba sonke sifunde ukungacwangciswa kwaye sikhululekile kwindlela esinxiba ngayo,"
UArmani wacacisa.
Wathabatha inyathelo nxamnye nesambatho esiqhelekileyo, enika izizukulwana ezitsha—kunye nendala—indlela ehlaziyiweyo yokunxiba ukuze siphile ngayo: “Icingelwe ngokutsha, ngoko ayisena blazer neblukhwe.” Ngoku, uArmani ukholelwa ukuba ‘isuti’ inokuba yihempe kunye nebhulukhwe kwilaphu elihambelanayo, okanye ibhulukhwe neblukhwe.
Okanye: iibhatyi zelinen ezifana ne-Armani-grey asanda kuyenzela iqela lebhola ekhatywayo yase-Italiya, ephefumlelwe yiwadi yomqeqeshi odumileyo u-Erzo Bearzot. Iilwimi ezikhohlakeleyo kushicilelo lwaseNtaliyane zathi ibhatyi yenza abadlali babukeke njengabapheki, nto leyo ebonisa ukuba kwaneArmani—intsika yokuchaneka kwe-sartorial—ingaphezu kweekhowudi zesinxibo. “Andiyithandi into yokunxitywa kwabantu ziimpahla endaweni yokunxiba. Oku kuye kwabaluleke ngakumbi kwimeko yangoku, ”utshilo.
Ngandlela thile, ubhubhane ubonakalise ukuba intuition yam yesitayile esingaphelelwa lixesha nesingasebenziyo ibisoloko ibalulekile. Yile nto kanye endifuna ukuyibonisa ngale ngqokelela: umbono wentuthuzelo ohambelana namaxesha esiphila kuwo. ” Ngelixa uguqulo lwewadilophu mhlawumbi luhlobene ngakumbi kwindlela yokubaleka ye-Armani-i-mini-skorts zamadoda ezicetywayo kwenye indawo kule veki zatshintshwa ziibhulukhwe ezimfutshane apha-impembelelo yobhubhane kumyili iyabonakala.
Nokuba uyaqhubeka nokukhupha iingcebiso anokuthi athengise inkampani yakhe, njengamahemuhemu eveki ephelileyo ukuba u-Armani wayedibanisa noFerrari. “Ukuqhubeka nesikweko sokuqhuba, ndisenguye okwisihlalo sokuqhuba. Ndiyakhe konke oku kwiminyaka engama-40 yomsebenzi wam, kwaye ndenze izicwangciso ezicacileyo nezineenkcukacha zekamva. Ke, akukho mfuneko yokuba abantu bagxininise,” wabhala umyili. Kolunye uhambo olusuka kwinkqubo, wathatha isaphetha sakhe ngesandla kunye nomncedisi wakhe wokuqala, uLeo Dell'Orco. UArmani, ngendlela, ayiqhubi iFerrari. Kuba ngelixa ekwisitulo sokuqhuba, wongeze wathi, "Kufuneka ndivume ukuyekelela kwam okuncinci: ndinomqhubi, kwaye ndikhetha ukuqhutywa ngapha nangapha kunokuqhuba ngokwam imoto."
UMlawuli: @ amaranta957
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