Abalandeli bakaRiccardo Tisci bokuqala, vuyani! Ukusukela oko umyili wafika eBurberry, abazinikeleyo bebefuna ngaphezulu kwemfuzo engafiyo yi-10 yeminyaka yobudala bakhe be-Givenchy: elo gazi libomvu, linencakuba, ubuhle obungaqhelekanga bumisiwe phakathi kwengozi kunye nomnqweno.
Kweli xesha lonyaka, bafumana kanye loo nto. Ifotwe kwindawo yedolophu eyintlango yiMillennium Mills eMonti eRoyal Victoria Docks, ingqokelela yamadoda kaTisci yabuphelisa ubuhle obahlukileyo kumsebenzi wakhe kumboniso wakhe weBurberry ukuza kuthi ga ngoku. Zazininzi iimbekiselo zomsele kunye neekhabhathi, kodwa kwintetho yayo enyulu, lo kaBurberry wayefunda ulwimi lukaTisci hayi ngenye indlela.
˝ Bendifuna ingqokelela ibambe laa moya ukhululekileyo wobutsha kunye nesimo sabo sengqondo esinyanisekileyo nesobuganga, loo mvakalelo yokulinga kunye nokungabi nangxaki. Kukho imvakalelo enamandla yomanyano kodwa kunye nokuyeka ukuhamba - ukukhuthazana kunye nokuphakamisana komnye nomnye ukuze sivakalise ubuntu bethu ngokukhululekileyo. Ngamandla akrwada kakhulu awosulela, achwayitisayo kwaye azele bubomi. Njengokuvuka.˝
URiccardo Tisci
Wayikrazula imikhono kwiimpahla zangaphandle waza waphinda wayikrola kwimo yokulwa, walungisa imigca ye-raglan yempahla yezemidlalo, kwaye wakwazi ukwenza i-halter-neck silhouette ibonakale i-hunky. Iipleyiti zesifuba ezibambeneyo zaqhubeka nezo ncoko, ezinye zancitshiswa zaba sisiporho nje kwisikipa, ngelixa imitya ebaxiweyo yempahla yokusebenza idibanisa imibono yamathambo kunye neembambo, ibuyisela ezo mifanekiso zinqwenelekayo zikaMemento Mori okanye uDía de Muertos umsebenzi kaTisci uhlala ukhutshwa. mandulo. Ephakamisa umbala ngamnye wetshekhi yeNova, wayigquma yonke into ngengubo eshinyeneyo, eluthulini, emhlophe, ebomvu, emnyama, enentloko ezuba esibhakabhakeni ukuya “kuphela kwento esiye sakwazi ukuyibukela” ngelixa sivaleleke. ukuvalelwa.
Ukutolika kwakhe iikhowudi zikaBurberry-ezakhiwe ngokutsha kodwa zacokiswa-ziva zinyanisekile kwi-ethos yakhe, wazibuza ukuba kutheni engazange athathe le ndlela kwangoko. Kumnxeba wevidiyo ovela kwindlu yakhe yaseMayfair, uTisci ubonakalise ukuhlala kwakhe iminyaka emithathu. “Kuthatha ixesha ukuba umyili afumane into efanelekileyo xa usebenza kwinkampani. Kubantu abangaphandle, kubonakala ngathi uya phaya kwaye…” wanqumama. “Yinkqubo enika umdla. Iqela elikhulu, linomdla ngakumbi kwaye linzima kwaye linzima. Ke, kulungile ukuba sifikile apha. Emva kweminyaka emithathu, isazisi siya sicaca. ” Ukusebenzisa intetho enyanyekayo kodwa kule meko enesiqinisekiso: Uyakwenza wena.
Ifotwe ngaphandle, iimodeli zihamba kwimitha yesanti, ngokuchasene nesakhiwo esincinci seMillennium Mills eRoyal Victoria Docks, eLondon. Umculo weAnthemic liqela elenziwe yiBritane, iShpongle, udlala kwindawo yonke. Amava adibeneyo okudala.
I-Tischi idibanisa iimvakalelo zenkululeko kunye nokubambisana, ukudala umzuzwana wobutsha obuhle, obujoliswe kwizinto zomoya kunye namandla omculo kunye nokunyakaza.
“Kuya kufuneka uqonde ilifa lenkampani, kwaye yinkampani enkulu, kwilizwe elomeleleyo. Kancinci, ubona izinto ozikhuphayo. Yinkqubo yakho leyo, ”utshilo uTisci. Ukujonga emva kwiingqokelela zamva nje, unokubona inyathelo ngenyathelo elithathiweyo ukufumana eli lizwi, ukuvumela uphawu lwakhe lokuthengisa lukhanye kwindlu yefashoni iminyaka elikhulu kunaye.
Kodwa ubhubhane wayitshintsha indlela ajonga ngayo uTisci: “Ndiziva ndisekhaya, nokuba bendivalelwe. Umhlaba uzakuqalisa kwakhona, kwaye kum, oku bekutsha. Yiloo nto esiyifunayo namhlanje: ukuthetha, inkululeko, inkululeko yomzimba; ukuba sithi. Yipunk ngendlela eyakhayo: ukwaphula imida. "
Ukubukela ihlabathi libuyela ebomini—“yaye isizukulwana esiselula siyaphambana sikhangeleka kwakhona!”—UTisci wakhunjuzwa ngeminyaka yakhe yokuqala yamashumi amabini xa wayebalekela eIndiya waza wavulwa amehlo wabona enye into. "Ndikhumbule i-rave yam yokuqala e-India, kunye no-Shpongle, enye yezona DJs zibalaseleyo kumculo we-trance," watsho, ebhekisa kwiqela eliye lafumana amanqaku kulo mboniso, "libamba iqhaza kwezi ndawo zivulekileyo, ngayo yonke le ndalo, nazo zonke ezi zinto. izizukulwana ezincinci ezivela kwihlabathi liphela, ukuba ndim kwaye ndiziveza. Ndiphuma kwintsapho ehluphekayo, kodwa iingoma zomculo zaziyindawo endandinokuzichaza ngayo ndize ndibe kumgangatho ofanayo naye wonke umntu.”
Ebethelela ingqokelela yakhe kwezo nkumbulo ze-rave, kwaba ngathi loo mboniso waphinda unika uTisci indawo yokuthetha ngokukhululekileyo.
Isimbo: Ib Kamara
Ukwakheka: Isamaya french
Iinwele: Jawara
I-Choreography: uJosh Johnson kunye noTosh Basco
Abalawuli: Partel Oliva
Umculo: Shpongle