Thatha isihlalo sakho esingaphambili ukuze ufumane uCactus Jack Dior, ingqokelela yeDior yamadoda ehlobo lika-2022 emele incoko phakathi kukaKim Jones, igcisa lomculo uTravis Scott kunye noChristian Dior, otyhilwe ngqo eParis.
EDior, uKim Jones usebenzisane namanye amagcisa abalaseleyo abonakalayo phaya, ukusuka kuPeter Doig ukuya kuRaymond Pettibon kunye noDaniel Arsham. Kodwa ngandlela ithile iinzame ezidibeneyo zeli xesha kunye ne-rapper eneminyaka engama-29 ubudala yaseHouston yenza eyona ngqiqo. UTravis Scott yenye yezona mvumi zibalaseleyo emhlabeni ngoku, isithixo sikaGen Z esibonisa isimo sengqondo sefashoni yenkcubeko yentlalo-ntle kwaye onomntwana noKylie Jenner. Uluhlobo lwabantu abadumileyo abahlala phambili kwimiboniso kaJones. Kodwa namhlanje uluntu lwehip-hop alusalawulwa yifashoni. Bayitshintshile loo paradigm, babanga impembelelo yabo efanelekileyo kwishishini, kwaye bangena emva kwevili.
Intsebenziswano kaScott kunye noDior yayiyimbonakaliso yaloo ndaleko: intlanganiso phakathi komdali kunye nogcino lwakhe lolondolozo lwembali, owayengekasithathi isigqibo sokuba ngubani ofakwe kweyiphi indima. "Ukususela kwinqanaba ukuya kumculo, akuzange kube malunga neengubo kuphela kodwa malunga namava," kusho uScott ngexesha lofakelo kwii-ateliers zaseParis zaseJones. "Yindlela owubona ngayo kwaye uyive, indlela owubona ngayo umculo." Wayethetha ngemveliso yemiboniso ephilayo-eyayidibanisa iinkumbulo zeegadi zobuntwana zikaChristian Dior kunye ne-cactus-enzima yeTexan landscape uScott wakhulela kuyo-kodwa usenokuba wayepeyinta umfanekiso wokuqonda kwakhe ifashoni. Unesiphiwo sokwenza isimbo, uScott unomntu kwiwodrophu eyahlukileyo njengesandi sakhe. "Imalunga nencasa, akunjalo?" UJones uxelele uScott. “Abanye abantu banayo, abanye abanayo. Ngethamsanqa uyenzile!”
I-intanethi iya kukunika izikhokelo ezingapheliyo zokujonga kwi-Scott kunye nabaqulunqi bakhe abakhethiweyo, ukusuka kuJones ukuya kuVirgil Abloh, uPhoebe Philo, kunye neempawu zenkolo zaseJapan ezigxininisa inkcubeko yefashoni esoteric. Ukuqhubela phambili, iingcebiso zesitayile zinokuhlehla kwingqokelela yeDior yeli xesha, eyayiyi-medley yezo mpembelelo. UJones uchaze ukuba ukhuthazwe yinkangeleko yegcisa ngokwalo kunye neziphumo zakhe ezahlukeneyo zokuyila. “Sibe neeseshini zoyilo olunzima kangangeenyanga ezimbalwa,” utshilo uScott. “Ndandizoba imizobo ndize ndiyithumele kuye. Sahlala phantsi kunye neeref eziphambeneyo, siqhekeza apho sasivakalelwa kukuba sifuna ukuyithatha. " Iphalethi yapeyinta umfanekiso weHouston, isibhakabhaka sayo esipinki, i-cacti eluhlaza, kunye nomdaka womhlaba oye waba nemibala yentengiso kwiwodrophu kaScott.
I-silhouette yaziva igxilile kwi-rapper's penchant kumphezulu ongaphezulu kancinci odityaniswe nebhulukhwe egqabhukileyo, ebhityileyo kodwa engaqini. Ukuphindaphinda kumzantsi we-tracksuit bomelele ngokukodwa, belungiselelwe ukuchaneka kwaye kufakwe amaqhosha entsimbi afana ne-cowboy ezantsi ecaleni. Ngokunqwala kwelo lifa lenkcubeko, uScott wayetolikele ingxowa yesali kaJohn Galliano kaDior njengengxowa ephindwe kabini eziva ngathi i-rodeo kunanini na ngaphambili. Enye yeesignesha zomculi: iipatheni ezikhupha i-rattlesnakes kunye neentyantyambo zentlango ze-Texan plains. Wayeyibethele indlu yangasese ye-maison de Jouy, ngelixa i-ghostly motifs eyayivela phezulu yayiyeyakhe. “Zizinto zentelekelelo ezithi gqi entlokweni yam, kwaye ndizizoba ngesandla,” watsho uScott, ekhomba kwaezo zinto zilukiweyo ezinithiweyo. “Ezi zithungwe ngesandla, nto leyo ifana namandongomane. Iyaphambana.”
Ethetha ngohambo yena noJones ababeluthabathe kwi-archives yaseDior, uScott ngokucacileyo wayesezulwini. “Ndingena kwaye ndikwazi ukubanazo ezo zisezandleni zam…,” wanqumama, uncumo ebusweni bakhe. Emva kwexesha, wachaza malunga nomnqweno wokwenyani we-atelier efana neDior, enokwenza nantoni na ukuba yenzeke. "Ukwenza enye yeengcinga zakho ziphile, luhlobo oluphambeneyo." Intshiseko yakhe yayibonakala kwingqokelela, yiyo loo nto ivakale ngathi ngumdlalo onobuqili kuJones. Kunokuba asebenzise umsebenzi womzobi kwimpahla yakhe njengoko ebenzile ngaphambili, lo yayingumyili emema umxhasi wakhe weDior mhlawumbi onempembelelo enkulu ukuba athathe inxaxheba ekudaleni, ukusuka kwisithunzi ukuya kwimotif kunye nokuhombisa umphezulu. Yaba organic.
Ngaphakathi kwaloo mongo, ingqokelela ibonise enye intsebenziswano ngendlela yeehempe ezipeyintwe ngesandla ngumculi uGeorge Condo, eziza kuthengiswa ukunyusa imali ye-scholarships kwisizukulwana esizayo sabayili. “UTravis undixelele ukuba uqala isiseko sokuba abantwana baye eParsons. Ukuba sikwenza oku ngeDior, kukho ilizwi elinjalo elijikeleze kuyo. Ukuba bendisiya ekholejini ngoku, andinakukwazi ukuyenza. Ibiza kakhulu, kwaye eMelika ibiza kakhulu.
Uphuma nekhulu letyala ungekagqibi,” utshilo uJones. “Ndivakalelwa kukuba kufuneka sisebenzise imali yethu ukunceda aba bantwana,” utshilo uScott. Ebuzwa ukuba ufuna ntoni kumboniso weDior-umboniso wokuqala wamadoda kwindlu enabaphulaphuli abaphilayo ukusukela oko ubhubhane-uScott wangqengqa, wema, wathi, "Ngaba ukhe waya kwi-utopia?"