Ukuvuleka, ukukhanya kunye nokunciphisa. Umboniso wendlela yeenqwelo-moya ehlotyeni ka-2022. Ingqokelela eyenziwe nguVéronique Nichanian, umboniso olawulwa nguCyril Teste.
Ibekwe nguCyril Teste, ingqokelela yamadoda ehlotyeni ka-2022 ikhupha umoya opholileyo wentliziyo ekhanyayo kunye nenkululeko. Ukusungula izinto ezintsha ezichanekileyo kubambe ingxoxo kunye nemibhalo yelifa lemveli ebonisa i-dévoré, i-blurred ne-forated motifs, iguqulwe kusetyenziswa ubuchule bale mihla.
"Simo sengqondo esitsha, kwaye sinomdla." Xa wayethetha oku, u-Véronique Nichanian wayexoxa ngeenkcukacha ezithile ze-micro-styling (iikawusi ezimnyama ezikrobe phezu kweebhutsi zeebhokhwe phantsi kwee-Bermudas ezinde). Nangona kunjalo, uluvo lwakhe lokujonga kuqala oluzisiweyo lweZoom lusebenza kanye kuyo yonke le ngqokelela yeempahla zamadoda zaseHermès. Iboniswe ngale mva kwemini kwindlu yokuqala yokubuyela kwintendelezo yamatye eyi-Auguste Perret eyenzelwe iMobilier National ukusukela nge-22 kaJuni ngo-2019 (umhla womboniso wayo wokugqibela wamaxesha aqhelekileyo asentwasahlobo). Kwakhona ukwenza imbuyekezo yaba ngumlawuli wethiyetha onesiphiwo uCyril Teste, kwifilimu yakhe yesithathu/défilé ukusebenzisana noNichanian ngokulandelelana.
Njengesizini edlulileyo, iscreen sikaTeste esinezom zoom kunye neepani ezigudileyo zavumela abo babukele bekude-ndibandakanyiwe-ukuba bavelise kwakhona amava obomi bokwenyani endiwachaze ngelo xesha xa “amehlo akho ehamba ngapha nangapha ukwenza ibali elijijekileyo neliyi-episodic imbono omele uyilawule.” Umahluko namhlanje yayikukuba bekukho abaphulaphuli bokwenyani esandleni, bebukele le bukhoma bukhoma (abaninzi abakho), kwaye besebenzisa awabo amehlo. Njengoko u-Nichanian wathi: "Kubalulekile kum ukuba ndingabi nayo ifilimu eyenziwe ngaphambili kunye ne-montage eninzi ... bubomi bokwenyani kunye nabantu bokwenyani abajonge kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya."
Ukulandela ixesha apho ubomi buye baziva bungeyonyani, ubomi bokwenyani babuyinto kanye kanye. Ingqokelela yayiqinile, iquka inkangeleko engama-41 kuphela: “Ndikhetha ukungabi nempahla eninzi, kodwa ukuba nezona zifanelekileyo,” utshilo uNichanian. Ekuqaleni kwakubonakala kulula. Kodwa okukhona uvumela iliso lakho ukuba lijikeleze kwaye lijikeleze kuyo, kokukhona okukhona okungaqhelekanga, okufihliweyo ngaphakathi kokubonakala kuqhelekile, kwabonakaliswa.
UNichanian wayibiza le ngqokelela ngokuthi “Double-Jeu,” okanye “Umdlalo oMbini,” kwaye wayichaza ngeendlela ezininzi. Uninzi lweempahla zangaphandle, kubandakanywa nokuvula, zenziwe kwiiphaneli ze-gabardine ezichasene ne "spinnaker," okanye i-canvas, enemibala ecacileyo kwaye igxininiswe ngokuthungwa kwe-zig zag ukuhambelana nokuhamba simahla kokuhamba ngesikhephe, enye inkuthazo ngasemva kwenqanawa. ingqondo yomyili. Kunzima ukubonwa kumgaqo weenqwelomoya, kwiZoom yethu, nakwindawo ezisondeleleneyo zothando zikaTeste yayiyipentimento ecokisekileyo yelifa lemveli elinamaleko aphindwe kabini iMors et Gourmettes, enye imhlophe-kumhlophe, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha ivuselelwe ngakumbi ngokongezwa kwe yagqobhoza isiqabu seHermès Quadrige equine. Inxalenye enkulu yeziqwenga yayinokuguqulwa, inikezela ngokuphindwe kabini kwelo xabiso kunye nokubini kwee-accents ezinxibekayo. Ezi ziquka iipaki ezibuyiselwa umva; ulwandiso olutsha lwejacket ye-Nichanian yokugqibela yexesha eliphindwe kabini kunye ne-vest yangaphakathi eguquguqukayo; iblouson eluhlaza kwingwenya ethambileyo; kunye nebhatyi eneziphu ekhangelekayo yokugqibela (eyathi, yajika, yayiyihardware yasimahla, isibhengezo esidayiweyo ngakumbi).
Imizobo eprintiweyo eyohlukeneyo, bekukho amakroti endalo kwi-abstracted intarsia daisy relief knitwear, ugqabhuko-dubulo olukrakra lombala kwizijukuphuku eziorenji eziorenji kunye nepinki yecashmere, kunye nokudibanisa okuthambileyo okubandakanya ihempe ethungelwe ngeseyile kunye neBermuda ehlanganiswe ngesikhumba samatakane aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. Ukudibanisa neyona moya ipholileyo yomxholo, ukuhamba ngenqanawa, amabhanti ayenziwe ngentambo kwaye ezininzi zeengxowa zazisikwe ngeseyile kunye nesikhumba. Kunye nezi bhutsi zikawusi, bekukho neebhutsi zebhokisi zesikhumba ezenziwe ngeseyile, ezicandisiweyo, kunye neembadada zofele lwethole.
Iindibano zikaNichanian yayiziimbonakalo ezintle zobudoda ezazivumela ukukhetheka kwazo ukuba kuhlale kufihlwe kwindawo ecacileyo kubo bonke ngaphandle kwabo banombono ukuba baqaphele. Njengoko wathi: “Kumalunga nokuzivulela iindlela ezintsha zokubona. Ukudlala, kunye nokuqamba ngokutsha. Kuba kufuneka sibe nobomi obuninzi, ubuninzi. Kwaye ndihlala ndikuthanda ukunyaniseka kokwenza into ngaphandle kwelogo enkulu. "
Ingcebiso yayiyiyo, ngokuchanekileyo, ukuba ukuhambahamba kunye negama lebrand esifubeni sakho, ebhegini, okanye kwisihlangu kutyhila umphezulu kodwa akunabunzulu. Wongeze wathi: “Apha eHermès, andenzi fashoni, ndenza iimpahla. Kwaye ndizenza ngendlela endithemba ukuba yongeza amava ethu kwaye incede ukuba ivele. ” Le yingqokelela eyathi yakhumbuza oko uAntoine de Saint-Exupéry kwiLe Petit Prince akuchaza “njengemfihlelo elula kakhulu: Kungentliziyo kuphela apho ubani anokubona ngokufanelekileyo; into ebalulekileyo ayibonakali ngeliso.” Yayisisimo sengqondo esitsha, yaye sasibangela umdla.
