Lo mboniso uchukumisayo waseka uDemna Gvasalia njenge-couture maverick- kunye nomthungi kunye nomthungi wempahla echubekileyo njengomseki ongasekhoyo.
Kwisaluni ye-couture kwi-Avenue George V, umboniso uqhubekile kungekho mculo, uvumela iindwendwe ukuba zive ukurhashaza kwamalaphu - kwiibhulukhwe ezilokwe ngesandla, kwijean ejike ngesandla erhuqa kwikhaphethi ebeige nakwiipaki ezinomgqumo. ingxangxasi yomthamo olandela ukusuka emagxeni.
UDemna Gvasalia wayethuthe ifashoni ephezulu kwihlabathi langoku, enxiba iimpahla eziqhelekileyo kubaphulaphuli abancinci - kunye neentonga zombane zenkcubeko ezifana noKanye West, ofike kumboniso weBalenciaga couture enxibe ipuffer emnyama evela kwiprojekthi yakhe yeGap, kodwa ngubani onokunqwenela. ukunyusela kwenye yeGvasalia entle nenomtsalane iidyasi zeopera nezibileyo.
"Sinokuqiniseka njani ukuba nguwe?" I-titan ye-luxury François-Henri Pinault, usihlalo kunye negosa elilawulayo laseKering, watsho ngentsini xa wayebulisa i-West, ubuso bakhe bufihliwe ngesaka eprintiweyo efakwe imingxuma embalwa yokuphefumla. U-Lewis Hamilton, uJames Harden, uBella Hadid, uLil Baby kunye noSalma Hayek babephakathi kwamanye amagama akhaliphileyo kwelo gumbi, abuyiselwe ngobuchule kwinto eyayikhangeleka ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1960, xa uCristóbal Balenciaga ngequbuliso waxhoma isikere sakhe.
Elinye lawona matikiti ashushu eVeki yeParis Couture, ephawula ukubuya kweBalenciaga kwibala lemidlalo emva kokungabikho kweminyaka engama-53, umboniso wawunomoya wombane kwaye kwangoko waseka iGvasalia njenge-couture maverick - kunye nomthungi kunye nomthungi weempahla ngokucokisekileyo malunga ne-silhouette. njengomseki ongasekhoyo.
Wavula umboniso malunga neshumi elinesibini leesuti ezimnyama kunye ne-tuxedos ezimodelwa ngamadoda kunye nabasetyhini kwiibhutsi ezinezithende eziphakamileyo ezigxumeke iifreyimu zabo phambili, ebeka ugqaliselo kumagxa abanzi, aqingqekileyo, iblukhwe evolophutu kunye nesinqe esinqunqiweyo ngamaxesha athile.
Iimilo ziye zayakha ngakumbi njengoko umboniso uqhubela phambili, kunye neekhola ezixhumela phezulu nangaphandle, okanye ezithi nkxu ngobuhle ngasemva. UGvasalia wayengakholelwa kubukho bukaThixo malunga nobu buchule bumangalisayo, buqashwe kwiibhatyi zedenim, iilokhwe zemini ezilungiselelweyo okanye iigawuni zangokuhlwa ezimnandi kwi-faile satin.
Kwakukho uburharha oburhabaxa, kunye nobuchule obubuhlungu, kwisikipa sakhe esimnyama esigqunyiweyo kunye nehoodie engwevu ejingi; ubunewunewu obufihliweyo kwi-tracksuit yakhe, efakwe kwi-cashmere, kunye ne-embroidery ebonakalayo, ukuya kuthi ga kwiinyanga ezimbini, kwezinye iigawuni, eziphefumlelwe ngokuthe ngqo kwindawo yokugcina.
Ngelixa efunxa undoqo welifa lemveli lika-Balenciaga, uGvasalia wahlala enyanisekile kwiimilo zakhe ezigqithileyo kunye nobudoda obune-dystopian, ebotshiwe kwaye efakwe kwimfezeko kumalaphu akhethekileyo kunye noncedo oluvela kwezinye zezona zithengisa zibalaseleyo eYurophu.
"Sisiqalo sento eyahlukileyo kumsebenzi wam," watsho umyili emva komboniso, enxibe idyasi ende, enzima emnyama - akukho sivalo sebhola, kwaye akukho nail polish. “Abantu bahlala bendifaka kwibhokisi yomntu oyila iihoodies kunye neeteki. Kwaye ngenene ayinguye lowo ndinguye. Bekubalulekile ukusebenzisa eli thuba ukubonisa ukuba ndingubani ngokwenene njengomyili, kwaye le ngqokelela yayiyimbonakaliso yoko. ”
UWalter Van Beirendonck, omnye wootitshala bakaGvasalia e-Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, owamqesha kanye ephuma esikolweni ukuba asebenze ingqokelela yakhe yamadoda, wanika lo mboniso ubhontsi ngehlombe.
"Ngenene ndiyifumene ingakholeleki - umxube omhle kangaka phakathi kweBalenciaga kunye nesimanjemanje," utshilo. “I-couture eninzi imalunga nokuhombisa. Kwaye apha yayimalunga nokuthunga, kunye nendlela entsha yokusebenza ngemiqulu. ”