IVenice kwihlabathi lokuvela kwakhona, ukuba kuyenzeka, ingummangaliso ngakumbi kunangaphambili, kunye namahlengesi abonayo engcakaza e-laguna kwaye bambalwa kakhulu abakhenkethi abajikelezayo ukubancoma. Ngoloyiso, eli chibi libuthathaka lisandula ukubhengezwa njengesikhumbuzo selizwe, kwaye kwangaxeshanye urhulumente wase-Italiya ekugqibeleni wabhengeza ukuvalwa kweenqanawa zokuhamba ngenqanawa ezazisongamela esi sixeko ngelixa zibonakala zisizisela inzuzo encinci yemali.
Ngeendlela ezijikajikayo zesixeko kunye neepiazzas ngokwentelekiso, kunye neepaviliyoni eGiardini, (ukusingatha iminikelo yesizwe yeVenice Architecture Biennale imanyana phantsi komxholo Siza Kuhlala Njani Ndawonye?) angoyiswanga ncam ngabatyeleli, umkhosi obhityileyo kakhulu , ababevalwe ngeetattoo, bezaliswe sisimo sengqondo, yaye bezulazula kumhlaba oyintsomi wesixeko, babonakala bephawuleka ngakumbi.
Ezi zingqineke ziyimodeli kunye neempawu zebhrendi zika-Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, edolophini ukuhamba, ukunyathela, ukujikeleza, kunye nokutyibilika kwindlela yeenqwelo-moya kwingqokelela yomyili ekholisayo (nangona iyantlukwano yomzimba, kubonakala ngathi, ayikabi yinxalenye yengxoxo. kwindawo yeempahla zamadoda).
Ngokuhambelana nokugxilwa kwesixeko ngoku malunga namathuba okwakha, iVaccarello isebenzisana nodidi oludelela umzobi kunye nomenzi wefilimu uDoug Aitken (ophumelele iBhaso lamazwe ngamazwe kwi-1999 Venice Biennale) kwindawo yokubonisa ingqokelela yakhe.
I-Aitken yenza i-Green Lens, isakhiwo esimangalisayo esinembonakalo yesipili esadityaniswa kwinyanga kwi-Isola della Certosa, kwaye ityalwe kunye nohlaza lwendlu eshushu. Isebenza njengempendulo kumbuzo obuzwe yiBiennale, idibanisa ifuturism kunye nendalo yendalo.
“Zonke iiseti zeSaint Laurent bendisoloko ndizenza ngendlela,” ucacise watsho uVaccarello, kwisidlo sangokuhlwa sasemva komboniso esasibekwe kwibhodlo elingenaphahla lesakhiwo sezitena esidala esiqithini, “ngoko bekumnandi ukwabelana ingcamango okwesihlandlo sokuqala negcisa endilithanda ngokwenene, kwaye bekumnandi. Lo mbono bekufanele ukuba ube ngowomboniso wabasetyhini kulo nyaka uphelileyo, utshilo uVaccarello, "kwaye ngenxa yobhubhane siwuqhubele phambili ngoku. Ekugqibeleni kube sengqiqweni ngakumbi ukuba nayo eVenice kunaseParis, ngakumbi nge-Architecture Biennale-kunye naloo ngqokelela, engumxube wempembelelo eninzi kaSaint Laurent kunye neVenetian 'New Romanticism'. ukuwabeka kwimbali, indlela yeVenetian yakudala, kodwa kwimeko yekamva. Ndicinga ukuba emva kwe-COVID ufuna ukujonga ngakumbi kwikamva kunangaphambili-kwaye ndiyawuthanda lo mxube wexesha elidlulileyo kwiimbekiselo kwiimpahla, kunye nekamva kwisimo.
Ngexesha lomboniso okhawulezayo ubume obubonisa isibhakabhaka esiluhlaza, ukukhanya kwangorhatya, kunye namanzi amdaka echweba ngelixa ukukhanya kwe-Aitken kwayiguqula imeko ukusuka kumzuzwana ukuya komzuzwana, ecebisa ngokujika ukutshona kwelanga elidangazelayo okanye umkhenkce oluhlaza waseScandinavia. Ichanekile kwezo zipili, isizwe sikaVaccarello saphuma sahamba sinxibe iibhatyi ezibhityileyo okanye iiblawuzi ezibhityileyo (cinga uAdam Ant kunye neBhritane yangeminyaka yoo-1980s iNew Romantics), kunye nebhulukhwe yemilenze yomdiza eneebhutsi zeqatha ezichotshozwayo ezandisa i-silhouette ebhityileyo.
Ukuguqulwa ngexesha lokubolekwa kwempahla yabasetyhini engapheliyo kwiwodrophu yamadoda, uVaccarello naye wayonwaba ngokuphonononga amaxwebhu angenakuthelekiswa nanto eSaint Laurent kwiziqwenga zokunxiba zabasetyhini ezinokuthi zinikezelwe ngabafana, kubandakanya i-jacquard crepe de blouses kunye neehempe ukusukela kwiminyaka yoo-'70s. , iibhatyi ze-reador ezinqunyiwe kunye ne-spencers ezivela kwi-Saint Laurent's Picasso (Fall 1979) kunye ne-Jazz (Spring 1978) ingqokelela, kunye ne-bolero ephothiweyo ye-brocade evela kwingqokelela yase-China (Fall 1977) iphinde yacingelwa njengebhomu kwaye inxitywe ngeejini ezimnyama, kunye nenani. yokwahluka kwiLe Smoking. UVaccarello uphinde waphawula ukuba "kwakukho izinto ezininzi ezivela kwiingqokelela zam zabasetyhini ezidlulileyo-ezazizinzileyo ekugqibeleni," wongezelela, "njengazo zonke iihempe zeleyisi, iziqwenga zamaxesha amabini okanye amathathu adlulileyo."
Ukunika imbeko kwisixeko esasisindleke kwakukho idrama yecarnival yaseVenice nakwimivalo ehlokomayo, kuquka nesilika eqaqambileyo emthubi eyathi yavusa umzekelo ongafezekanga oboniswe kwiSaint Laurent's Fall 1983 haute couture show, (kwaye emva koko yagungqiswa ngusontlalontle uNan Kempner kwiCostume. Igalari yeZiko elabhiyozela umyili). “Ndicinga ukuba bekumnandi ukubona ukuba umfana oselula angayicingela njani loo nto,” utshilo uVaccarello kwiziphakamiso zakhe zolwelo lwesini, “kwaye kufuneka nditsho ukuba babeyicingela ngokwemvelo, [nokuba] yihempe yeleyisi, okanye izihlangu zeqonga.