Lo ibingumboniso wokuqala weenqwelomoya we-Emporio Armani ukusukela ngoFebruwari ka-2020, kwaye ingqokelela yaphawula isikhumbuzo seminyaka engama-40 yohlobo.
Nge-Armani teatro, isiqingatha esingenanto ngenxa yezihlalo ezikude ekuhlaleni, lo mboniso uvakale ngathi ngumcimbi opholileyo wangaphakathi - ukuzilolonga nokuba - xa kuthelekiswa nokuxinana okuqhelekileyo, ukuhleba kwangaphambili kunye nokuchanekileyo, ukulibaziseka kwemizuzu engama-30 ngaphambi kokuba imodeli yokuqala ivele. Yayingumboniso wokuqala weenqwelomoya we-Emporio Armani ukusukela ngoFebruwari ka-2020, xa i-COVID-19 yabetha umhlaba. Isizathu sesibini yayikukuba ecaleni kwakhe kwesi saphetha nguSilvana, umtshana wakhe: UMnu Armani, 86, sele etshilo ukuba ulungiselela ikamva, kwaye obu bubungqina obutsha baloo nto.
Lo mboniso uphawule isikhumbuzo seminyaka engama-40 okoko u-Armani wavula ivenkile entsha eMilan ethengisa ingqokelela awayeyibiza ngokuba yi-Emporio Armani, okanye i-Armani Emporium (ngesiNgesi saseLatini). Umbono yayikukuguqulela isibheno sakhe esikhulayo saseMelika iGigolo- kunye noGrace Jones-eyenziwe yavuselela isibheno kwingqikelelo evumelana nobuchule bokuthengisa buka-Elio Fiorucci, kodwa yayigxile ekufikelelekeni ngakumbi, okufikelelekayo, kunye nokubhetyebhetye kwekhowudi yeArmani.
Ukusuka kuRoberto Mancini eme kunye (elungile kakhulu) iqela lesizwe lebhola ekhatywayo lase-Italiya ukuya kumaxesha angama-80 amaphulo athe alawula iCorso Garibaldi kunye neebhodi zebhodi kwihlabathi liphela, imoji efotiweyo eyandulela umboniso (kodwa ngokumangalisayo ingazange iquke imiqondiso ekhanyisiweyo ye-titanic. esibulisa bonke abafikayo kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya saseLinate) bakhumbuze abaphulaphuli abahlukanisiweyo (ngenxa yezizathu zempilo) ngesibheno sikaEmporio esihlala siluhlaza.
Ingqokelela eyalandelayo yabonisa isizathu soko. Ukugquma zombini izinxibo zabasetyhini kunye nempahla yamadoda, inqumle indawo ephambili yase-Armanian ye-androgynous (kodwa ingabinasondo) yokuthunga, yaphoswa ngokukhululekileyo kwisitayile sakhe se-eccentrico (ihlala ingumnqwazi, kunye ne-Memphis-ekhumbuza ubucwebe be-chunky), ijikwe ngendlela engeyiyo ngqo kodwa. Ngokuqinisekileyo iimbekiselo ezingezizo ezase-Italian kwi-silhouette kunye ne-watercolor-esque pateni, kwaye ngamaxesha athile zibuyela kwiinguqulelo zelokhwe yepati enehemethi ezintathu eyenziwe ngobukrelekrele.
Njengangaphambili, bekukho inkangeleko engaphezulu kuneefoto kwiVogue Runway kuba u-Armani wathumela iimodeli zakhe ngokwamaqela, amaqela amakhulu asebenza ukugxininisa isahluko sefashoni sebali elibanzi awayelibhala. Utshintsho endiluthandayo lwalusuka kwicandelo leempahla zamadoda ezineebhatyi ezintle eziqhelekileyo ezidityaniswe namaqhina aprintiweyo (i-Miami Vice reference?) eyayinxitywa ngaphezulu kwezilayidi.
Oku ngequbuliso kuye kwadityaniswa nempahla yezemidlalo emhlophe yonke kodwa enemibhobho ene-7 ethe tyaba yophawu lwe-EA: iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane zokuhamba ngebhayisekile kunye neiteki zohlukane, kwakunzima ukuxela ngokuthe ngqo ukuba zenzelwe owuphi umdlalo, kodwa wawukhangeleka upholile. Emva koko omnye utshintshi: ilinen ye-silika echotshoziweyo idibanisa kunye ne-kimono collar accents. Kwaye ke enye, kwaye enye...
Yonke le nto, nangona kunjalo, yayikhangeleka i-Armani kuphela. Lo ibingumboniso owabonisa ukuba uhlaziyo oluthe gqolo ngaphakathi kweparameters zamaxabiso oyilo oluthe gqolo kudala ifomyula apho ileyibhile inokuhlala iselula ngonaphakade. Auguri, Emporio.
Iikhredithi: @stefanoguindani@sgpitalia